The term ‘mineral water’ signifies water that originates under certain distinct geological conditions, resulting from natural phenomena, and emerges from earth as thermal springs or spring water, that has an unusual high level of natural effervescence. Nevertheless, it is dependant upon the entire global water cycle, which infl uences its intrinsic value and quality.

Bathing and immersion in mineral water is an ancient custom. It was also used in rites and religious ceremonies. The ancient Greeks were aware of its curative qualities and to the Romans thermal baths fulfi lled a vital social role, both for the benefit of immersion in the waters and also for the consumption of the water due to its health enhancing qualities.

Today, this is echoed in the widespread, popular use of mineral and artesian waters, not to mention the revival of all kinds of spas and thermal therapy all over the world.

How is mineral water created ? One has to look at the history of the earth itself to better understand this phenomenon. Geologists explain its creation in three basic phases : Firstly the infi ltration of rainwater through the subsoil, during which rain and / or snow migrate underground through the granular matrix of the earth and the faults and fractures in the bedrock.
Secondly, the water gravitates down to the “reservoir rocks” that are the aquifers themselves. There are different kinds of natural aquifers : groundwater aquifers, in which water fl ows freely in the saturated subsoil, and artesian aquifers where the water is under pressure due to the geological conditions.

In whichever of the above, as the water moves or lies in the subsoil, its physical and chemical properties alter and this determines its fi nal composition.This is basically made up of minerals dissolved from the surrounding rocks, together with a quantity of dissolved gases. The salinity of the water depends upon its chemical reaction with the mother rock and this is determinant in the composition of all types of mineral water.
The mineral content is measured according to the total of the completely dissolved solids and isclassified into three categories : minimally mineralised (fixed residue up to 50mg/l), low mineral content ( fixed residue of up to 500mg/l) and mineral-rich (fi xed residue over 500mg/l).

Water in the first above category is frequently found in mountain areas where its transition through the subsoil is swift (one year or more). The very low mineralization level is usually due to the water’s relatively short contact with host rock of low solubility (such as metamorphic and / or plutonic rock types) rich in low soluble minerals.
On the other hand, water classifi ed in the third category has completed a longer and deeper circuit in the aquifer, sometimes spanning several decades. It is often manifested by surface outlets with unusual temperatures, bearing testimony to its circulation at the deep underground level. This kind of water has high saline content, liked to volcanic activity or to the dissolution of highly soluble rock, such as evaporitic sediments (chalk, potassium salts, etc.).

The extraction also greatly varies according to the kind of aquifer. Natural springs harnessed through a system of catchment collection boxes, called catch pits, drainage tunnels, trenches, and sub- horizontal boreholes, drilled in proximity to the natural water outlet, which increases the flow-rate, whilst at the same time serving as a protection for the water source itself. In the case of S.Pellegrino the water flows naturally from an artesian-type source, that is to say rising of its own accord from the aquifer
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The taste of S.Pellegrino can be described as rich and structured, with medium sized bubbles. It is not only an Italian water, but represents the true heart of Italy. It represents the essence of Italian life and  has built its century-old history and reputation on a very solid foundation. S.Pellegrino will continue to be not only a water, but a reflection of Italian art, style and culture.
The composition of S.Pellegrino has remained unchanged since the first official analysis in the late 1700’s. The water emerges at a constant temperature of between 25° - 26°C, inciting the stability of the stratum through which it travels (average temperature of groundwater at the same altitude is between 11°-12°C). It contains a blend of elements which correspond to the components of the human body.

In the beginning, S.Pellegrino was bottled without the addition of carbon dioxide. It was commercialised and distributed to provide for those unable to physically come to the Spa to drink the curative water.
Later, it was realised that it became also excellent table water thanks to its exceptional properties.

The sparkling version, which we know today, was balanced by a specifically measured quantity of carbon dioxide. This proved an immediate success and the still version was phased out.
To this day the carbon dioxide used by S.Pellegrino comes from natural sources in Tuscany and is transported to S.Pellegrino in special containers. It is extremely important to note that this carbon dioxide is not of industrial origin.

However, to truly understand the fundamentals of its water, the San Pellegrino spring has recently been subjected to intensive geological and hydrological studies, including a geophysical investigation into the depths of the subsoil. At the same time, a series of detailed isotopic tests, to establish, the entire course of the water’s long underground pregrinations and its transition from the catchment area to the collection point at the fountain itself, have been done.
This has created a scientifi c and detailed picture of the hydro-geological factors involved in the birth of the water, and the path that it takes, before emerging in the San Pellegrino springs. The catchment area lies between 1,200 and 1,300 metres above sea level (as established through the isotopic analysis of the dissolved oxygen) and is situated in an extensive, uninhabited part of the Dolomites.

The rocks form part of the main Dolomite Triassic stone found in geological formation of the Southern Alps. The water works its way through crevices and gaps in the karstic Dolomite rocks, and then meets an impermeable shelf of chalk deposits. At this point, the vertical, gravity oriented fl ow is redirected into a slower horizontal motion, following the impermeable layers.
This is the moment when it begins to acquire its organoleptic and physiochemical properties. The dissolving of the evaporitic rock layer, composed in large part of calcium sulphate, imbues the water with particular, strong geochemical qualities, whilst the great depth of circulation provokes a rise in temperature in the geothermal gradient at approximately 500 metres below the level of the spring at the surface.

The water is then met by a second barrier, in the shape of a geological falt, where the aquifer (“reservoir rock” of the Dolomite Mountains) meets a stratum of impermeable clayey deposits, known as clay stones.
The deep horizontal fl ow has its own hydraulic gradient, its artesian gradient, and it is therefore forced upwards through the fi ssure, where the two different kinds of rock meet, fi nding release in the San Pellegrino spring. By isotopic analysis of the tritium content, and in accordance with the rock composition of the aquifer, it is calculated that the water takes an estimated 30 years to travel from the catchment area to the spring.

This inertia of the entire hydro-geological system leads to a unique and stable mineralogical formula (chemically the water is classifi ed in the bicarbonate – sulphate – calcite category), which characterises the chemical and physical properties of S.Pellegrino water. It is not surprising therefore that, over and above the enjoyment one procures from drinking S.Pellegrino water, it has been bequeathed with positive medical effects. S.Pellegrino water is, by and large, enjoyed because consumers fi nd that it is good tasting, smells agreeable and is easy digestible.

However this is but part of the pleasure procured ! S.Pellegrino is absolutely colourless, has but the faintest aroma and barely any noticeable taste. Water is an extremely delicate product with specifi c organoleptic properties, which can be altered by a variety of substances as well as by environmental stress, change in temperature, light and darkness and exposure to the sun and man-handling.
All of these factors can and do distinctly alter the taste.

 

Nevertheless S.Pellegrino mineral water is perfectly safe and is constantly subjected to the most vigorous controls at source. At home and in the professional arena, the acre and attention taken with water should be equal to that of all other fresh products. Bottles of S.Pellegrino are best refrigerated at between 8°- 10°C.
It is advisable not to add anything to mineral water, such as ice cubes (normally not made from mineral water !) or lemon slices. Water is in itself thirst-quenching and the additions only lead to the alteration of the true characteristics and taste of the water.

When “appreciating” water as a product in itsown right, one does not only drink to be refreshed, but for a whole range of other motivations. Water is tasted by using the same senses as one would for tasting fine wine and exquisite food. As in wine tastings the utensil that the water is served in is of great importance.
Glass, or even better crystal glass, is perfectly suited. Contrary to wine, a stemless glass is better and the mouth and bottom of the glass are equally important. The rim should be thin to bring the water in closer contact with the lips, and this will improve the way in which the water is perceived in the mouth.

For sparkling water, a glass with a narrow mouth enhances the duration of the sparkle and allows for the correct quantity to be sipped at one time. It goes without saying that great care should be taken in washing, and particularly rinsing, the glasses to avoid extraneous odours, marks or unpleasant deposits. The quality of the cloth with which it is dried is also crucial. It should be preferably linen and only be used for the drying of glasses.

Water is the ideal accompaniment to food. Our lives are directed by sensorial stimuli, analysis, assessments, and integration. The cortex of the brain accommodates all this information, all that we physically sense. In tasting, be it wine, or food, or water, all five senses are involved : touch, hearing, sight, smell and taste.
Water is “touched” when the glass is lifted and “felt”, sending the message as soon as the liquid reaches the lips and the mouth. This allows one to appreciate its freshness. Hearing comes into play, but the ear has to be trained to hear the bubbles of sparkling water. It evokes the image of the source and creates a sonorous stimulus, which completes the full understanding of the water. Man’s sensorial universe is very much seated in visual perception.

The colour of a beverage is important, as is its container and the glassware in which it is served. Clarity is the norm and cloudy water is automatically, almost instinctively, discarded. Where S.Pellegrino is concerned the effervescence is part of the fundamental visual message. The sense of smell is unequalled in its capacity to discriminate. Man is surrounded by aromatic compounds, triggering olfactory sensations.

One’s memory for smell is more resistant than that of colour, yet naming a smell is more difficult. In water, smell helps one discern the abnormal and this increases the pleasure derived from drinking it. Taste is a chemical reaction interpreted by the special receptors located in one’s oral cavity. These are stimulated by the ions in solution, and sensorial and gustative analysis are divided into what the human mind and mouth are able to identify, namely acidity, salinity, sweetness and bitterness.

These are translated into flavours and feelings of acidity, sapidity, structure, lightness and mouth-feel. Taste is inevitably connected to smell, hence the sensations of taste and smell are defined as “gustative-olfactory analysis”.
This forms the basis of the evaluation of the balance and persistence of a beverage or a solid. In scientific surroundings, or in a tasting situation, the following sensations are charted out : freshness, effervescence, clarity, unpleasant smells, acidity, sapidity, structure, lightness, softness, balance and persistence. In conjunction with sommeliers and restaurateurs, the discerning public has been made aware of the pleasure of actively tasting water, and in top restaurants water lists are available to match  one’s meal.

Wine and water each have their personality and individual characteristics and attention should be paid to the structure of both beverages to ensure harmonious match.Taste buds are delicate mechanisms that can easily be subjugated by contrasting elements.

A dominating, or overpowering liquid creating to great a contrast in texture, should be avoided. It is an art to be mastered, but there is no need to be daunted by the idea.

It can also become a professional matter, as it should be for a sommelier, but it can also be a pleasure acquired through experience and active tasting. The sommelier’s every day business is to advice their customers on the best pairing of not just wine and food but also the pairing with all the other beverages served during the meal. Water has yet never really been considered in this culinary approach even though it has always been one of the products systematically present on table.

That was because most people until now did not really know this product, they just used it to quench their thirst and did not appreciate it as an epicurean pleasure. To really love and appreciate water you need to forget about its function as a hydrating beverage of everyday consumption and instead discover its organoleptic properties in order to appreciate its fl avours and aromas.
As sommeliers are especially attentive to these kinds of sensations and as the sommelier’s business has always been evolving in order to reach perfection water is now becoming the very heart of target of the sommeliers  attention.

Acqua Panna still mineral water is, as a general rule, a better match for wine, yet S.Pellegrino is ideally suited to certain Rosés with a higher alcoholic content. Wines with less tannin, more fragrant young red wines, lighter bodied red wines with lingering secondary aromas, mature fruit and spices, harmonise well with S.Pellegrino as do the more mature, fuller bodied ones, where the complexity of their bouquet and the stronger tannins and the longer persistence blend remarkably well with this water.
S.Pellegrino is well matched to full bodied wines with affi rm structure and powerful aromas and fl avours. Taken with a fresh white wine as an aperitif, the carbon-dioxide of this water increases the secretion of gastric juices, thus sharpening the appetite.

S.Pellegrino is thus an excellent preparation for a meal. The S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, Water Codex I, Water Codex II and Water Codex III are indispensable guidelines and an introduction to further enjoyment and experimentation. Water Codex is the product of the input of internationally renowned sommeliers, who work with water every day of their lives, together with the factual information provided by scientist and experts of SAN PELLEGRINO SPA.

But how did it all begin ? This awareness concerning the importance of water in the context of culinary experience is without any doubt the achievement of the partnership between ASI and the mineral waters Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino. Everything started in 2003 when Giuseppe Vaccarini, former best sommeliers of the world and general director of the world sommelier association met with Clément Vachon, then international marketing director of these brands.
What is the role of water on table was the question that provoked 4 years of research and a series of experimentations, reflections, analysis and confrontations, other questions followed and than the answers were found and the three volumes “The S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna Water Codex” were written.

The mineral waters Acqua Panna and S. Pellegrino still remain the only brands having entrusted their products and resources to ASI’s sommeliers letting them do their analyses and experimentations in order to find out the rules of water pairings and harmonization. The vocation of the Water Codex books is to be a pedagogical handbook dedicated to sommeliers,chefs or simply gourmets in search of the perfect culinary pleasure and experience by perfect harmony between the different ingredients of a meal.

The methodical approach and the analytical language have above all the aim to provide a clear outline of how to appreciate and serve water at the dining table, this justifi es the use of the Latin term “Codex” for the title of these books. The first volume in a fi rst time treats with the codification of water tastings having as objective to classify the different sensations related to water. Performing a water tasting means conducting a rational and conscious investigation without any preconceptions.
It means committing all of the senses at our disposal to classifying its merits and fl aws through systematic analysis, the taster must be objective and without bias. He must concentrate on expressing an  assessment that is coherent and impartial, and use very precise rules and methodologies for his assessment.

Therefore the ultimate objectives of water tasting are numerous : learning to appreciate this beverage, drinking it with the aim of perceiving its qualities, being able to select which one would be matched with wine and food, and, last but not least, being able to describe it so that we may speak of it with competence.

A special scorecard evaluating the eleven sensations of a water tasting helps the taster to make his subjective analysis as objective as possible.
This scorecard takes into consideration the freshness, the effervescence, the clarity, the smells, the acidity, the sapidity, the structure, the lightness, the softness, the balance and the persistence of the water. This scorecard helps the taster to evaluate his sensations in terms of quality and quantity and last but not least, creates a common language among the insiders.

The second part of the same volume gives us the rules of harmonization concerning the pairing of water with the current categories of wines. If the wine is of the type that lingers long in the mouth, it should be harmonized with a water of like personality that is capable of contrasting the intense sensations of the wine.

Hence its function is to “clean” and “free” the palate of residue sensations that might inhibit the pleasure of the ensuing sips of wine. Harmonizing through accord occurs when a softer, suave wine is accompanied by a similarly smoother water.
In this case the blending of smoother taste factors serves to avoid the two fluids clashing or worse, one overpowering the other with a dominant taste. In this way the softer notes of alcohol and lightness on the tongue are enhanced, because the slight warmth induced by the wine is prolonged by a smoother water, whereas that pleasant lingering would be checked immediately if a stronger type of water overran the taste buds.

The glass has always been entrusted with the function of containing a liquid that is to be brought to the lips and consumed. To perform this function, containers of various shapes and materials have been created over the centuries. In order to best reveal the character of each water, ASI’s Sommeliers, Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino developed and designed together with the Italian glassmaker Bormioli, two special glasses which best allow the organoleptic and sensorial expressions of Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino mineral waters.

Given that a glass is of such fundamental importance during organoleptical assessments and tastings, when dealing with two waters having different characteristics one needs two containers of different shapes, one for still water and one for sparkling water.

These two types of glasses have two characteristics in common and others that are different. In common they have the material with which they are made, the absence of edges and sharp angles, the absence of a stem, and their thinness, particularly around the rim. The difference instead is in their shape, which have been specially selected for the type of water to be examined.

The second volume of the Water Codex extends the analysis to beverages others than wine. Many pairings have been tasted for example coffee, tea, aperitifs, sake, spirits, liqueurs, bitters and digestifs. The conclusions of this second volume give us a deeper and more exhaustive overview.

To the rules of pairing and harmonization by analogy is added the rule of harmonization by contrast. In this case, a particularly alcoholic drink can benefit from the CO2 of the water which will help to control the alcohol and to reinforce the flavours of the drink.

In still other cases like that of coffee for example both “laws” can be applied. The acidity of a sparkling mineral water can balance the bitterness of this drink and relief its aromas and fl avours. On the other hand the strong mineralization of this water may infl uence and attenuate the expression of the aromas and fl avours of more subtle coffees. Generally speaking harmonizing water with other beverages by contrast means, that we compare two opposite sensations, so that we counterbalance and clean the palate, which is then ready to enjoy new sensations.
The third issue of the Water Codex which was edited in September 2007 is dedicated to the sensations of water and food pairings. Without any doubt this third volume constitutes really a fundamental step in the research of culinary pleasure and harmony.

Together with the sommeliers eleven of the world’s greatest chefs from 11 different countries, illustrate the basic rules of that issue by the help of their culinary creations. Water infl uences in a signifi cant manner the taste but also the after taste of the drinks and foods it accompanies. Like the choice of wine, the choice of water is fundamental for the guarantee of a perfect gustatory pleasure.

What’s true for wine is though true for water as well. One single water will not fit for all the dishes or all the drinks of a meal. Water plays an important role for the relation amongst the different dishes, prolonging the pleasure of certain flavours or on the contrary preparing the palate for the new culinary pleasures to come.

Today water fi nally reveals to us that it is not just a passive actor of a meal but that it plays a main role. So it is one of the sommeliers duties to advice the customer on the choice of water as he already did for the choice of wine and other beverages. The results of ASI’s sommeliers studies on the organoleptic characteristics of Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino.

S.Pellegrino premium quality spring water has a significant taste personality, a rich mineral structure, a dense perlage of reasonably fine bubbles in abundance and a moderate acidity that stimulates salivation , while the high mineral content leaves a pleasant aftertaste. Generally speaking, S.Pellegrino has a commendable structure, and leaves behind a persistent and gratifying sensation.

S.Pellegrino best expresses itself contrasting intense sensations or cleaning the palate of residue sensations that might inhibit the pleasure of the ensuing course.

To complete S.Pellegrino, Acqua Panna is another premium quality light mineral water, pleasingly soft and balanced, with persistent velvety smooth taste sensation that have the rare ability to enhance and prolonge suave and subtle food and beverage aromatic notes. Acqua Panna is limpid and luminous and has neither effervescence nor any off-putting odour, and at the first sip has a pleasant, fresh taste.

Acqua Panna is low-acid in type, and carries few mineral salts, without however impairing its structure. However, this is a vast subject and merits much greater depth of analysis and serious consideration.

The three interliked websites of S.Pellegrino, Acqua Panna (www.sanpellegrino. com ; www.acquapanna.com ; www.finedining waters.com) are full of interesting articles, the main objective is to appear as a window of Italian style & Italian Way of Living, and at the same time, provides an excellent guideline for discovering how significant the role of mineral waters during meals is, and why a single water, be it still or sparkling, cannot match with everything that is eaten or drunk.


- S . P E L L E G R I N O  T O D AY -
Sanpellegrino is the company commercializing S.Pellegrino sparkling mineral water and Acqua Panna still mineral water. Some facts & figures about Sanpellegrino Nestlé Waters Italy : Stefano Agostini is the CEO of Sanpellegrino Nestlé Waters Italy, Fabio Delgli Espositi is the International Business Unit Director, focusing on exporting Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino fine dining waters worldwide.

Faustao Tazzi is International Marketing Director within the International Business Unit. Today Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino are exported to 120 countries and are considered the reference waters for the best tables of the world.


- S . P E L L E G R I N O  &  A C Q U A  PA N N A  T O M O R R O W -
Present and future projects will reinforce the involvement of the two Premium qualiy mineral waters in the world of fine dining.

Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino keep supporting the most important initiatives in fine dining, such as "Idenità Golose", Almost Famous Chef in the USA, Master Food and Wine in Argentina, the World Gourmet Summit in Singapoure, Dubai at the table, The Fooding in France, "Lo Mejor della Gastronomia" in Spain, the "S.Pellegrino 50 best restaurants of the world" in the UK, or the "S.Pellegrino Stern Cup" in Austria.

The now famous "S.Pellegrino Cooking Cup" will be held for the eight edition in Venice late june 2008. The "SPCC" is a sailing race during which chefs cook aboard the racing boats.

The- Dishes are then presented at the international jury of acclaimed chefs and sommeliers. Final ranking is determined by both, the racing and the cooking results. In the World of wine Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino have been for almost ten years now the main sponsors of the World Sommelier Association. They take an active part, helping the sommelier’s profession throught the world.

During the last edition of the Sommelier Competition in Rhodes in 2007, a special trophy has been awarded for the first time in the history of the Sommelier’s World Contest, to the sommelier the most competent in the field of water knowledge and pairings of water with other ingredients, such as food , wine and other drinks.

The trophy has been awarded by Acqua Panna & S.Pellegrino. The two companies recently chose to actively support the newly created sommelier tasting council S4C (Sommeliers For Consumers), a tasting group of thirteen worldrenowned sommeliers, starring :

Andreas Larsson, BEST SOMMELIER OF THE WORLD 2007;

Hervé Pennequin, 3rd BEST SOMMELIER OF THE WORLD 2004;

Roger Dagorn, SOMMELIER AT CHANTERELLE and MASTER SOMMELIER; Yoichi Sato, BEST Sommelier OF JAPAN 2005;

Mark Slater, SOMMELIER AT MICHEL RICHARDS CITRONELLE; THE JAMES BEARD OUTSTANDING WINESERVICE AWARD 2007;

Virgina Philip, BEST SOMMELIER OF THE USA 2002 and MASTER SOMMELIER;

Olivier Poussier, BEST SOMMELIER OF THE WORLD 2000;

Gérard Basset, MASTER SOMMELIER AND MASTER OF WINE;

Christy Canterbury, CORPORATE BEVERAGE DIRECTOR FOR CULINARY CONCEPTS BY JEAN GEORGES;

Markus del Monego, BEST SOMMELIER OF THE WORLD 1998;

Dominique Laporte, BEST SOMMELIER OF FRANCE 2004 and 3rd BEST SOMMELIER OF EUROPE 2004;

Eric Beaumard, 2nd BEST SOMMELIER OF THE WORLD 1998 and HEAD SOMMELIER AT GEORGES V (PARIS) and

Anton Panasenko, BEST SOMMELIER OF RUSSIA 2003.

The objective of S4C is to blind taste wines and other beverages and to provide the consumer with objective and reliable information on these products via their own magazine and wineblog.

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