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The oldest new world wine region of the world - Souht Africa

By Hervé Pennequin

South Africa is considered a “New” world wine region, yet its history goes back to 1655 when Jan van Ribeek planted grapevines in the East India Company’s garden. 1680 was another important date when Simon van der Stel, appointed Governor, developed the vineyards of Constantia which in 1778 was one of the most acclaimed vineyards in Europe.

        The Cape “winelands” stretch from the rugged mountains and multi-directional. Slopes of the coastal region to the open plains of the Little Karoo where viticulture takes place mainly in the riverine valleys. Most of South Africa’s vineyards are situated near the coast, with rainfall on the coastal side. In other areas, the climate is either too cool or too warm. Grapes do not ripe properly and yields are too high to make good wine.


Currently around 110, 200 hectares of vines producing wine grapes are under cultivation over an area of some 800 km in length, producing around 9 million hectoliters of wine. South Africa is the 9th largest wine producer in the World. The Afrikaners prefer beer above wine which counts for 7.37 liters per capita, though beer is declining each year. In 1973, the WO (wines-of-origin) was adopted with appellations applied to Regions, Districts and Wards.

The government issued a sticker indicating a WO. An estate wine must come from one or more parcels of land that share the same “ecological conditions,” which are : Minimum 75% of the grape or vintage when stated. 100% of the grape when the place of origin is detailed.100% of the grape when the estate is designated on the label. The most planted varietals (also called Cultivar) are in order of importance (2005 figures) :



- W H I T E -
Chenin Blanc (called Steen), is the premier white grape in acreage with 18% of the total. Colombard (11%, used for Brandy production), Chardonnay (8%), Sauvignon Blanc (7.5%) and Muscat of Alexandria (called : Hanepoot).

Others of less importance are Semillon (called : greengrape), Riesling, Palomino, Ugni Blanc, Clairette, Chenel (cross of Chenin Blanc and Trebbiano released in 1974 by Prof. Chris Orffer at the Elsenburg College of Agriculture – name from Chenin and Elsenburg), Cape Riesling (also called :Crouchen Blanc).


- R E D -
Cabernet Sauvignon (14% of total acreage), Syrah (9.5%, gaining more success and awards each year), Merlot (7.3%), South African’s proprietary grape, Pinotage (cross from Cinsault and Pinot Noir created in 1925 by Dr Abraham Perold, 7%), Cinsaut (called Hermitage, 3.5% of the surface, used to be the first in acreage in the late 80s). Others are : Pinot Noir, Roobernet (cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pontac early 1990s by Dr Chris Orffer), Ruby Cabernet (cross from Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan created in 1940 by Dr Olmo in UC Davis Ca).


Jerepigo is a very sweet fortified wine (at least 160 grs/l). Cap Classique refers to sparkling wines made from the “Methode Champenoise” in the Cape (primary made of Chenin Blanc but now from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with a few exceptions). Boberg is used for the fortified wines produced in the districts of Paarl and Tulbagh.


South Africa is divided in 3 Geographical Units (GU) :
- Northern Cape includes the wards of Hartswater, Douglas, Lower Orange and Rietrivier,
- Western Cape : including all other production areas,
- Kwazulunatal.


South Africa is divided in 4 official regions :
- Coastal Region
- Klein Karoo
- Breede River Valley
- Olifants River
- And 21 Districts with a total of 55 Wards (as of 2007)



- C O A S T A L   R E G I O N -

The region encompasses 7 Districts : Cape Point, Darling, Paarl, Tygerberg, Stellenbosch, Swartland and Tulbagh, subdivided in 16 Wards.



- C A P E P O I N T -

These promising vineyards, some of them a mere kilometer from the sea, are situated on the western slopes of the Cape Peninsula on 26 ha. This cool-climate district is recognized for its Sauvignon Blanc (11 ha). The first red wine vineyards, planted at Red Hill bordered the Cape Point Nature Reserve.




- C O N S T A N T I A -

This historic valley was the site of Simon van der Stel’s 17th-century wine farm and the source of the Constantia dessert wines which were world famous during the 18th century.


There are only a handful of cellars in this premier ward and these continue the tradition of producing excellent wines from the classic European noble varieties. Thevineyards cling to the eastern slopes of Constantiaberg, an extension of Table Mountain below which Cape Town and its suburbs spread out.


The vines benefi t from the cool sea breezes blowing in from False Bay some five to 10 kilometers away. The ward receives about 1000mm of rain annually, making irrigation unnecessary, and has a mean February temperature of 20.6°C. Sauvignon Blanc is the leading grape with 138 ha, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon (6 ha), Shiraz (4 ha) and Chardonnay (3 ha).


- T Y G E R B E R G -

The dry land vineyards of Durbanville Ward, like those of Constantia, lie very close to Cape Town and border on the northern suburbs. Several estates and wineries, situated mainly on the rolling hill slopes with their various aspects and altitudes, continue to make a wide variety of wine styles. Wines from this ward attracting attention are Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep soils, cooling sea breezes, night-time mists and close proximity to the ocean are benefi cial factors when it comes to the quality of the grapes.


Philadelphia is a new ward north of Durbanville which also benefi ts from cooling Atlantic infl uences. The hilly terrain of this area means some of the vineyards are higher than usual, up to 260 m above sea level.
This facilitates a significant difference in day/night temperature and results  in slower ripening. Some highly regarded Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots and red blends have already emerged from this promising appellation.



- P A A R L -

About 50 km from Cape Town, Paarl is situated beneath a large granite outcrop formed by three rounded domes, the prominent one named Paarl (which means pearl) rock.

This scenic town is home to the KWV and the venue for the world-renowned Nederburg Auction.The summers are long and warm, and rainfall enough to make irrigation advantageous only in exceptional circumstances. A large variety of grapes are grown in Paarl, of which Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc have the best potential. Shiraz is by far the most successful red varietal and on the warmer slopes, new vineyards planted with Viognier and Mourvèdre show great promise.



The Paarl district includes the wards of Franschhoek, the ‘cuisine capital’ of the Cape which has retained its French Huguenot character; Wellington, a burgeoning wine area which is producing some promising wines; and the newest wards, Simonsberg-Paarl, on the prime foothills of the Simonsberg, and Voor-Paardeberg. The Franschhoek Valley lies to the southeast of Paarl and is enclosed on three sides by towering mountains : the Groot Drakenstein and Franschhoek mountains which meet at the top of the valley and the ones at Klein Drakenstein and Simonsberg found further down towards Paarl.


Streams from the higher peaks fl ow to the valley fl oor where they converge to form the Berg River, fast-fl owing in winter when snow caps the peaks and form a mere stream in summer, fed by the Wemmershoek Dam. Some of the Wellington wineries stretch over alluvial terraces towards the Swartland’s rolling hills and wheat fields, while others are found in the foothills of the towering Hawequa Mountains, where folds and valleys create unique mesoclimates.


Wellington, which supplies over 90% of the South African wine industry with cuttings, has some 30 grapevine nurseries, situated here due to the appropriate soils and warm summers. In winter, snow sometimes covers the mountain tops and night temperatures are generally cooler than at the coast, some 60 km away.





- S T E L L E N B O S C H -

The historical town of Stellenbosch, which features some of the fi nest examples of Cape Dutch architecture, boasts a winemaking tradition stretching back to the start of the 17th century. Stellenbosch, the ‘town of oaks’ is the educational and research centre of the winelands. Stellenbosch University is the only one in South Africa with a viticultural and oenological department, and many of the country’s most successful winemakers studied there. The Elsenburg School of Agriculture is also near Stellenbosch, as is the Nietvoorbij
Institute of Viticulture and Oenology.


This organization has one of the most modern experimental wineries in the world and, at its experimental farms (situated in several wine growing districts), important research into new varietals, clones and rootstocks is undertaken.The mountainous terrain, good rainfall, deep well-drained soils and diversity of terroirs make this a sought-after viticultural area. The rapidly increasing number of wine estates and producers (in excess of 130) include some of the most famous names in Cape wine.


The district, with its mix of historic estates and contemporary wineries, produces excellent examples of almost all the noble grape varieties and is known for the quality of its blended reds. The intensively farmed Stellenbosch district has been divided up into several smaller viticultural pockets including Jonkershoek Valley, Papegaaiberg, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch Bottelary, Banghoek (since 2007) and Devon Valley.

Stellenbosch Wine Route, the oldest in the country and one of the most popular attractions in the Western Cape, has created several manageable sub-regions for tourists : Greater Simonsberg, Stellenbosch Mountain, Helderberg, Stellenbosch Hills and Bottelary Hills.




- T U L B A G H -
Surrounded on three sides by the great Winterhoek Mountains,the vineyards of the Tulbagh district grow alongside orchards and fi elds of wheat. Soils in the valley are extremely variable. The area is characterized by acute differences in day and night temperatures. Mountainous terrain creates numerous different mesoclimates which can be used to great advantage. Unique to the valley’s geographical composition is the cold trap, a phenomenon which occurs as a result of the encapsulating mountains, shaped like  horseshoe, with Tulbagh situated at the north of the ‘bowl’.


Within this bowl, once a prehistoric lake, the cold air of the previous night lies undisturbed.


With no air movement from the sides, this cold bubble is trapped under the warming air above as the sun makes its way from east to west. The result is relatively cool average daily temperatures. The town of Tulbagh boasts 32 national monuments on one street, and here history and tradition work hand-in-hand with innovation.


With today’s high-tech water management and advanced viticultural practices, the true potential of this area is starting to be realized. At present there are some 16 wineries – several of them relative newcomers making acclaimed wines, notably, for example, with local cultivar Pinotage – in this secluded valley.



- D A R L I N G -
In an area surrounded by quality vineyards, Darling, is playing an increasingly visible role, with its own wine route and several tourist attractions just an hour away from Cape Town. Although regionally part of the Swartland, Darling, now a demarcated district, is vastly different in terms of climate, favoring the cultivation of more delicate cultivars.
The Groenekloof ward, which benefi ts from being closest to the cooling Atlantic, is known for the exceptional quality of its Sauvignon Blanc, although Cabernet Sauvignon leads the planted acreage followed by Shiraz.



- S W A R T L A N D -
Traditionally a grain-producing area, in summer the Swartland district is marked by green pockets of vineyards clambering up the foothills of the mountains (Piketberg, Porterville, Riebeek, Perdeberg) and along the banks of the Berg River. In the past, the region was planted mainly to bush vines but trellising is increasingly being adopted due to advances in management strategies and quality considerations.

 

The Swartland was traditionally a source of robust, fullbodied reds and high quality, fortified wines.
In recent times, some exciting award-winning wines have emerged, both red and white, and the area continues to produce top port-style wines. Increasing percentages of Pinotage, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon are being grown here, as well as Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. It has two designated wards, Malmesbury and Riebeekberg. The district of Swartland borders Piketberg to the north, which is similar in both geography and climate.



- B R E E D E   R I V E R   V A L L E Y -
This region regroups 4 districts (as of 2007) : Robertson, Worcester, Breedekloof and Swellendam.


- R O B E R T S O N -
Dubbed the “valley of vines and roses,” the Robertson district’s lime-rich soils make the area eminently suitable for racehorse stud farming and also, of course, winegrowing. Situated in the Breede River valley, the river is the lifeblood of this lower rainfall region. Although summer temperatures can be high, cooling southeasterly winds channel moisture-laden air into the valley.


Robertson is renowned for the quality of its wines and while traditionally considered white wine territory known mainly for its Chardonnays and more recently for the quality of its Sauvignon Blanc. It’s also the source of some of the Cape’s fi nest red wines, particularly Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, while the distinctive fortifi ed dessert wines for which it was originally famed continue to be produced. The district of Robertson incorporates several wards : Agterkliphoogte, Boesmansrivier, Bonnievale, Eilandia, Hoopsrivier, Klaasvoogds, Le Chasseur, Mc Gregor, Vinkrivier.



- S W E L L E N D A M -

This district is small but contains two wards : Buffeljags,Stormsvlei




- B R E E D E K L O O F -
This brand new district contains two wards : Goudini and Slanghoek (once parts of Worcester before 2007). The Goudini ward has as its hub the village of Rawsonville, surrounded by vineyards which fl ourish on a fl at landscape of alluvial valley soils with adequate drainage as they rest on a bed of river stones.



- W O R C E S T E R -

The Worcester District, with some 17 co-operatives and several big producers, is the largest in terms of winegrowing area and volume.


With around 18,750 hectares planted, it accounts for nearly 20% of the national vineyards and produces close on 25% of South Africa’s total volume of wine and spirits. It’s also the most important brandy producing area and home to the KWV Brandy Cellar, the largest of its kind in the world. Over the past few years, several of these large cellars have started bottling small quantities of quality wines under their own labels.


This district covers a large proportion of the Breede River Valley and its tributaries. It is surrounded by mountains on three sides and borders Robertson to the East. There are marked variations between the soils and mesoclimates in the different river valleys.This district comprises several wards : Aan-de-Doorns, Nuy, Sherpenheuvel.



- O L I F A N T S  R I V E R -
This region stretches in a belt from North to South along the broad valley of the Olifants River. The summers in this valley range from relatively warm to cool and compared with some of South Africa’s other wine areas, the rainfall is low. Soils vary from sandy to red clay loams.


With careful canopy management, which ensures grapes are shaded by the vine’s leaves, combined with modern winemaking techniques, the Olifants River is emerging as a source of good, value-formoney wines with quality rapidly improving. The region incorporates 3 wine districts : Citrusdal Valley, Citrusdal Mountain which contains 2 wards located on a cooler, higher altitude Piekenierskloof, Bamboes Bay and Lutzville Valley with 3 wards : Keokenaap, Spruitdrift, Vredendal.



- K L E I N  K A R O O -
This is a semi-arid, elongated region containing two wards : Tradouw and Montagu, via higher-lying, cooler Barrydale towards Ladismith, Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn. It’s known for relative extremes when it comes to soils and climate. The area is marked by a low and unreliable rainfall which averages only 200 mm per year.


Viticulture takes place mainly in kloofs, valleys and riverine sites in a rugged mountainous landscape. Muscat cultivars fl ourish here and the area is known for its sweet wines. Calitzdorp is famous for its port-style wines but you’ll also fi nd plantings of Tinta Barocca, Touriga Nacional and, on a small scale, Souzao.



Beside those four regions and main districts, other districts are defi ned : Overberg, Walker Bay, Douglas, Cape Agulhas, Bot River and Plettenberg Bay.



The following are the main Districts and Wards worth mentioning :
- E L I M W A R D -
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The newest of the maritime vineyards, this standalone ward is situated around the village of Elim, a Moravian mission settlement near Africa’s southernmost point, Cape Agulhas District.

Founded in 1824, the entire picturesque village is a national monument. Strong, cooling winds are prevalent in summer, ensuring a very cool ripening season, perfect for Sauvignon Blanc and also promising for Semillon and Shiraz. Generating much interest in the wine lands, its still small hectarage shows great potential.



- O V E R B E R G   D I S T R I C T -

Newer viticultural areas have opened up in this cool southerly district. The high-lying Elgin ward, cradled in the sandstone Hottentots Holland Mountains, was traditionally an apple-growing region. Now wines showing exceptional fruit are produced here with Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Shiraz doing particularly well in this late-ripening cooler zone. The other ward in Overberg is Klein River.



- W A L K E R B A Y   D I S T R I C T -
This recently demarcated district, surrounding the seaside town of Hermanus, is reputed for the benchmark Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines which have emanated from the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, a piece of ‘heaven on earth’.The cool climate is the sought-after attribute in this area where vineyards benefi t from persistent cooling winds from the nearby ocean.

The soils – predominantly weathered shales – and terroir are also ideal for cool-climate loving varieties.The area boasts some of the best land-based whale watching in the world in season (June to November). Two wards were defi ned in 2007 : Hemel En Aarde and Upper Hemel En Aarde.



- L O W E R  O R A N G E  W A R D -
The most northerly winegrowing area in the Cape, it’s also the fourth largest, totaling in excess of 15 000 hectares, which stretch in close proximity to the Orange River. Predominantly a white grape area, reds are being increasingly planted. The wine grape cultivars grown here are Chenin Blanc, Colombard, Chardonanay, Pinotage, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Muscadel (both red and white) and Muscat d’Alexandrie. Large trellising systems are employed in this region of which the hut, gable and T-trellises are the most in use.
 



 
These create special microclimates which protect the grapes, allowing them to ripen away
from exposure to the direct rays of the sun. Specific mesoclimates are created within vineyards located on the islands between the different streams of the Orange River where the close proximity to the water cools down the grapes to a considerable degree.
The conditions contribute to creating climate pockets which are conducive to production of better quality wines.

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