Tea comes from the tea bush Camellia Sinensis, an evergreen plant that grows in tropical and subtropical climates. It grows at elevations of up to 1500 metres. If left un-pruned the bushes will grow into trees, but they are mainly cut back to waist height for ease of picking.


There are two main varieties – Sinensis Sinensis from China and Sinensis Assamica from Assam, China and Burma. Experts vary in their opinions as to whether these have a common origin, but both have the same chromosome number (2n=30).



H E A L T H
Tea is a natural source of the amino acid Theanine, of Methylxanthines such as caffeine and theobromine, and of polyphenolic antioxidant catechins. It has almost no carbohydrates, fat or protein. It has a cooling effect on the mind and body.


C U L T I V A T I O N
It takes a tea bush some 5 years from planting to become productive. From then on leaves can be picked more or less every 10 days during the season. The higher the altitude the slower the growth and this is good for flavour. The plant gives of its best when subjected to limited stress, like the vine. The first spring pickings are regarded as the best. All the different types of tea can be made from the same tea bush.


O R I G I N S  &  H I S T O R Y
The origin is indisputably China. Here it has been cultivated for thousands of years. Some regard “Chen Long” as the founder of tea if there can be such a person. A charming legend has it that Shennong, Emperor of China and founder of Chinese Agriculture and Medicine, discovered tea when wind blew some leaves into his cup of water. It changed colour and he liked its taste.
A more poetical legend is that Bodhidharma fell asleep whilst meditating. He was so disgusted with himself that he cut off his eyelids which fell to the ground and took root as tea bushes. In China, for many centuries, tea has been a beverage, a curative and a symbol of status.


The Han dynasty used it as medicine. The Chinese philosopher Laozi (600-517BC) described tea as “the froth of the liquid jade”. Later, tea was introduced to Japan during the SUI dynasty (589-618AD) by Buddhist monks. There are references to green teas in 9th century texts. Tea seeds were brought there by a priest, SAICHO, in 805, and Japanese tea ceremonies were then developed by Zen Buddhist monks. The original brick teas gave way to loose leaf teas between 960-1279AD, under the SONG dynasty, and powdered tea was introduced.
In 1391, the MING court decreed that only loose leaf tea would be accepted as a tribute. Much later it was the British who introduced tea to India, who today is one of the largest producers in the world. Britain had to pay China for its tea, but China had little need of British goods so most of it was paid for in silver bullion. As an alternative Britain, shamefully, began to produce opium in India and forced China to trade tea for opium as part of several treaties after the infamous opium wars.



The East India Company was responsible for a lot of this and it is interesting that its products were the basis of the famous “Boston Tea Party”. Darjeeling and Assam teas became known as “milk” teas, which was the way the British enjoyed them. The Sri Lanka/Ceylon plantations were also started by the British. Tea was drunk very early on in Korea where it was offered to an ancestral God in 661 AD.


However it was not produced there as the climate was unsuitable, but superb OOLONG teas are produced in Taiwan as well as a strange concoction known as “bubble tea” (black tea mixed with condensed milk and tapioca).


It is said that tea was first brought to the United Kingdom in 1660 when King Charles 2nd married Catherine of Braganza. Samuel Pepys wrote, in 1660, “a china drink of which I had never drunk before”. In the USA tea became so popular that oil is often referred to as “Texas Tea”.




T H E R E   A R E  6  M A I N  B A S I C  T Y P E S  O F  T E A :

UNOXIDISED TEAS


1 • WHITE TEA (BAI CHA) •
gentle, soft and pure
The simplest form of tea. The leaves are picked, withered and air dried. Withering is done by putting the fresh leaves on racks or trays for up to 48 hours. It can be bud or leaf or both.


2 • GREEN TEA (LU CHA) •
garden fresh
There are many thousands of green teas in China alone. DRAGON WELL is the most famous. Here the leaves are picked, withered and then fired. Firing is done to kill off the enzymes and prevent oxidation and is done by heating a small amount of leaves at a time in a hot wok. The leaves are then baked a little. In Japan green tea leaves are steamed rather than baked.


3 • YELLOW TEA (HUANG CHA) •
The process is the same as green tea up to the point of baking. The baking is then very, very slow and gentle and this yellows the leaves and removes the fresh, grassy flavour, which is such an integral part of green tea. It gives a clear, smooth and cool cup.



OXIDISED TEAS
4 • OOLONG TEA (WULONG CHA) •
Oolong is a highly complex category. After the picking and withering it is tossed in a bamboo drum in order to bruise the edges of the leaves and ENCOURAGE oxidation. The oxidation gives a red tinge to the leaves. It is then fired to prevent further oxidation and hand rolled. Finally it is baked, which gives the tea its roasted quality. A tea by the name of CONCUBINE “GUEI FEI” is highly oxidised, partly by deliberately allowing insects to take bites out of the leaf on the bush !


5 • BLACK TEA (HONG CHA) •
this actually means “red tea” in Chinese
For this the leaves are FULLY oxidised after withering.They are then rolled and bruised as above. The enzymes act as catalysts and the leaf turns from green to vivid red. Firing follows and then sorting. Black tea was not produced until the 16th century. Chinese connoisseurs do not wish to know about it ! Darjeeling is a black tea from seeds taken by the British from WUYI to India whilst Assam tea, from the Camellia Sinensis Assamica, is malty, assertive and a good breakfast tea.


6 • PUERH TEA (PUERH CHA) •
The tea in excelsis of Chinese connoisseurs who will pay fortunes for several grams. First produced in the TANG dynasty (618-907), it was the tea of emperors. It is a fermented tea from the big leafed tea bush (Da Ye). The best bushes are grown on acidic soil (Ph 4.5-5.5). Puerh tea is NEVER consumed fresh. It is compressed into variously shaped cakes and then matured. There are two types :


- RAW PUERH (SHENG CHA)
naturally fermented
The processes here are picking, natural, unassisted withering, hand firing and rolling for shape and moisture in a hot wok, then sun drying and finally compressing into cakes. Once compressed the leaves age more slowly. Connoisseurs consider this tea drinkable after 10 years, excellent after 20 years and at its best after 30-50 years.
The finest will continue to improve and the 1910 vintage Puerh tea now fetches some 25,000 Euros for 357 grams, if you can get it. It is known as the SONG PING Cakes.


- COOKED PUERH (SHU CHA)
purposely fermented
Created in the 1970s to meet demand. Technically controlled cooking speeds the process and whilst it has some of the richness of flavour it can never compare with the Raw Puerh. Finally there are the scented teas. The scent used is mainly jasmine. The first spring teas are kept until the jasmine is in season in summer. Vast quantities of jasmine blossoms are then piled on top of the tea, which is allowed to absorb the heady aromas overnight. The jasmine is then removed and the tea fired in the hot woks.



D R I N K I N G

In the United Kingdom and Europe tea trading is really all about branding and blending for continuity. The consumption of fine individual teas is minimal and of course such teas can never be put into a tea bag.
This holds the tea leaves too tightly together and does not allow a sufficient surface area to circulate in the water. Storage conditions for tea are vital.


Tea warehouses should smell like cigar cabinets and there should never be a trace of mustiness. For black tea the water poured over the leaves should be at 100°C, whilst for green tea it should be only 80°C. Good mineral water is best as the balance of minerals in the water makes all the difference. The water is just as important for tea as for Whisky or Sake. Remember tea is an absorbent. Never put it close to cheese or garlic or other strong smelling foods.


Do not expose the leaves to too much light or moisture if not vacuum sealed. It is important to know that with fine teas you can make numerous infusions. Do not throw the leaves away after drinking just one pot. Most green teas will make 5 pots and good Puerh tea will make 30 pots after throwing away the water from the first two, which are too strong.
There is a lot of pleasure in store and wonderful teas available !

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