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Schooldaze

By David Orange & Joel Leffert

We like to think of ourselves as the Winebusters!! ... chasing the wonders of wine and reporting it before its time ! Thinking outside the cork and just ahead of the bottle ! Here was a task worthy of a Winebuster - to makesense of the Big Apple’s wine school jungle - a jammy,heady blend of old world and new, with competing aromas of blackboard and barnyard (Central Park carriage ?)

                It seems that almost every new wine shop holds weekly tastings these days. Then there are the famous, golden oldies from A (Acker Merrall) to Z (Kevin Zraly) - that have long calendars of classes and tastings, and have left decades of happy oenophiles in their vinous wake. Of course, there are the more formal programs for future pros at places like the International Wine Center and a slew of companies that offer a tasty combo of public classes and private parties and attract the whole range of wine devotees.
And let’s not forget those groups who frown on nasty spitting : the least formal and maybe the most fun - the social wine clubs springing up all over the city to bringpeople together for a nibble, a drink and a smile.

George Bernard Shaw said, “Those who can, do. Those who can’t, teach.” But he was a teetotaler. Those who teach wine, do drink it. Check Kevin Zraly’s resume. Talk to Helio San Miguel at the Instituto Cervantes. Have a drink with John Kapon at Acker Merrall sometime. These are teachers who have been in the trenches - growing grapes, making the wine, reviewing it and selling it. It is their life’s passion. It all starts with the wine. Americans are drinking more of it than ever and we want to know what we’re buying in restaurants and stores.

KNOWLEDGE is fun. It brings new sensations. It helps us break the ice with new friends (We’ve seen total strangers at a wine class, raise a glass to sniff, lock eyes and end up toasting their own marriage !).

By giving us knowledge, stores and restaurants get us to try new things and demand our loyalty. A win/win situation. We gathered our arsenal of questions and - with parched palates and steady smiles - set out through the streets of New York, aka The Naked City. They say it has seven million stories (old census). If our past misadventures are any guide, we’ll be adding a few more.
 
WHO YOU GONNA CALL ? WINEBUSTERS !

It’s the smaller, neighborhood wine shops that are driving the growth of classes for the average consumer. When New York State allowed shops to have free in-store tastings, more formal classes soon followed. Stores aren’t schools and they don’t offer diplomas, but they can teach their clientele how to choose and enjoy what they came there to buy.

Most stores offer a discount on bottles being tasted as well. So the classes can feed the sales. Space is at a premium in crowded New York and the creation of a Tasting room requires imagination.

Take, for example, AMBASSADOR WINES, on Second Ave. and 54th St. The shop’s been in Lenny Philips family for three generations and it’s crammed with wine, but downstairs are several surprisingly roomy spaces filled with expensive Bordeaux, luscious dessert wines and a 16- foot square tasting room with a hand-painted ceiling of white clouds floating in a blue Mediterranean sky.

The high wooden table in the middle sits 12-15 comfortably and faces the flatscreen monitor that shows off the colorful graphics Lenny uses to illustrate his classes on Viticulture, Wine & Food Pairings, etc. “Without education you get lost in a store,” he says. “We offer classes, not tastings. People think they know everything, and then they come to a class and are really surprised how much they learn.” Lenny started doing this in 2002, but lately the demand is skyrocketing. Customers sign up on the e-mail list or he may post the event on localwineevents.com (a very useful site) and within 3 days they usually sell out.

The main instructor at Ambassador is Jennie Thornton, a Master of Wine candidate, who volunteered to teach, loves the intimate setting and the chance to share her passion with people who want to learn. Who comes to a small, one-time wine class ? Lenny says they get all ages, some couples, some singles.
Yes, one marriage has come out of the class and yes, it is a social event. In other words, people don’t usually spit. But, the thing that draws everyone into this friendly, basement wine shelter is a thirst, not just for fermented grape juice, but for knowledge. So, along with everyone else, we sat there and happily soaked up plenty of climate and terroir as we sniffed, swirled, sipped and swallowed our wine.
www.ambassadorwines.com
+1(212) 421-5078


For another take on classes and shops the Winebusters paid a quick call on Guy Goldstein over at CELLAR 72 on Second Ave, near 72nd St. Guy is a former sommelier and wine director who runs his own sleek wine shop now, but like all sommeliers still loves to offer advice and spread the word about all things wine. “Classes and tastings are a natural extension of what we do in the shop,” Guy explained. He has a beautiful room in the back for tastings and another downstairs.

He used to offer a series of classes here, including several for the American Sommelier Association but for now only holds private events and in-home tastings. Does he miss the classes ? “Yes, of course,” answered Guy. “They’re great fun and they show off your wines. We’ll start up again soon. Our new website will post all the information.”
www.cellar72.com
+1(212) 639-9463
 


 
We checked out the web-site for BOTTLEROCKET just in time. There was a seminar that very day ! Owner Tom Geniesse has crafted a smart, theme-oriented shop on 19th St. in the Flat Iron District that pairs wine with food or a particular need (Something for the Boss)? Part of the shop’s allure are its clever tastings held in the back on a big wooden slab. Today is ‘Explore France’day. We’re tasting 10 French wines from 6 different appellations.
The teacher is Meg O’Connell and she is terrific - personable and smart. Turns out she also teaches at the 92nd St.Y and has been a wine steward and educator in Boston. “The problem with learning about wine is that so much about it is experiential,” she told us. “Even as the general level of knowledge has gone up, people still lack a way to describe in a very basic way what it is they are actually tasting.

This is what I try to teach, whatever the level. Being able to clearly express what you are sensing is, I think, the key to enjoying wine more. And I like to remind people that enjoyment is really the point of wine and what lies at the root of being passionate about it.” Meanwhile, we’re learning and enjoying.
Our group of 18, mostly couples with some singles, is now tasting a lovely red Burgundy and dreaming of the Côte d’Or. Each sip reminds someone of a dinner, a romance, a hurried scamper through the rain into a dim café, the heady smells of ripening flowers. Soon the whole group is reminiscing like old friends at a picnic.Who brought the music ?
bottlerocketwine.com
+1(212) 929-2323

 

 
“I would do it for free. I love teaching !” exclaimed Charles Scicolone, wine director at the specialty Italian wine shop VINO on East 27th St between Park and Lexington Avenues and its sister restaurant I TRULLI across the street. Charles used to teach social studies to junior high school students. Teaching the fine points of Italian wines to a more senior group of social drinkers isn’t that different, he says.

“You have to find the right balance of knowledge and fun.” On this night Charles is tasting 10 bottles of vintage Italian wine in the long, wood-paneled Vinoteca, the tasting room at Vino.
There are 2 older vintages each, from 5 different wines (2 nebbiolos, 2 sangioveses and 1 montepulciano) for the 18 wine lovers to compare. The class is filled with small groups of friends, couples and singles and despite everyone’s wide range of knowledge we all want to know more.

Jim Hutchinson, director of operations, tells us that Vino most of their wine trought their own company.held across the street at I Trulli. Despite all the classes out there, Vino doesn’t feel they’re in competition with anyone.

“We don’t obsess about what other people are doing,” Jim says. They have 6,000 names on their e-mail list, so most of the weekly classes sell out quickly. We asked Jim why he liked to teach. “People know what they like. But when you explain the way wine is made and their understanding grows, you can just see their minds change. It’s great. It’s why we do it.” Ours was a serious, yet social group. No one bothered spitting. That Barolo was just too tasty.
www.vinosite.com
+1(800) 965-VINO


WINEBUSTER HEADQUARTERS

“Winebusters,” David spoke into his special, hotline receiver. “Who’s calling and how serious is it ?” “I’m Brigitte,” whispered the accented voice that could soothe or shatter. Joel, sensing his partner’s growing urgency, reached for his thick-skinned, purple leather bag. David hung up and grabbed his trench coat and fedora. “She says her wine cellar is haunted !” It was time for the Winebusters to go to work.
We hopped into our car, a vintage Vino Mobile, and drove to a famous building along Central Park West. Security asked for I.D. Joel pointed to the pin on his lapel with its distinctive red and white Grape Clusters and we were waved through with a respectful nod. The penthouse doors swung open to reveal a full-bodied femme fatale with legendary legs, and an overall topography reeking of expensive terroir.

After a quick sniff of her excellent bouquet, we regained our concentration and listened to her story. “... I just moved to New York only to find out that my wine cellar has a ghost ! The bottles shake and move about ! Please help me,” she cried, the clarity of her eyes dimmed by tears. “Step aside, ma’am,” Joel insisted, sounding like vintage Bogie. The Winebusters entered Brigitte’s bounteous wine cellar with its rack upon rack of sought after wines.
From his bag of instruments, Joel took a stethoscope, pressing it against each vibrating bottle in turn: Petrus, Vega Sicilia, Opus One, Sassacaia and the rest. “Well ?” David inquired. Brigitte stared fearfully from the doorway.

Joel looked at the woman with a smile. “No ghosts here, ma’am. With all respect, you need to leave your limo and go underground. We have subways here in the Big Apple and you happen to live on top of the ‘A’ Train. That’s your ghost. We’ll tell you how to better insulate your bottles. Welcome to New York, ma’am !” As we left, David handed our lovely patient his burgundy-colored, business card. She caressed the raised logo along its bottle-shaped length. “Wine is so confusing to me. I wish I could learn more,” she said, her ripe lips “We have a fairly esoteric selection.

We started classes because people wanted to know more about them. And with all the different wine regions and grape varieties in Italy there’s always something new to teach.” When you think of Italy you also think of food. There was an excellent plate of cheese and cured meats to pair with our Barolos, but the more ambitious food and wine classes are bursting with jammy fruit. “I’d be happy to give you a few pointers sometime,” David offered. “If there’s any more trouble you know who to call,” Joel added, bags packed, ready to move on to the next case. And so, the Winebusters solved another problem in the Naked City. One lucky and beautiful young lady would sleep well that night !

When ASTOR WINES AND SPIRITS relocated to an historic landmark building on East 4th St and Lafayette St, the spacious ground floor was set aside for the hugely successful retail business, but the rest of the building became the ASTOR CENTER, a multi-room entertainment complex featuring the stars of the food and wine world.
Opening this past January, Astor Center is a state-of-the-art venue for events, programs and important occasions and features three special-purpose environments : The Study, The Gallery and The Kitchen.

There is such a cornucopia of eyecatching high-tech designs and gadgetry in these rooms we had to tear ourselves away to make it to the wine class at ‘The Study.’ Here, our mouths were agape. This room was surely the mother lode of wine tasting sophistication. There was stadium seating for 36. Joy-stick controlled cameras for recording or broadcasting. Three 50-inch plasma screens for displays. Specialized light boxes at each seat for examining wines.
The list goes on. We were surprised to see, in front of the class, none other than Andy Fisher- the owner of Astor Center and Astor Wines. The veteran Andy is a big name in the wine world but has, for the most part, flown under the publicity radar in his nearly forty years running Astor. Now, Andy has stepped forward to steer the opening of Astor Center. “In many ways, Astor Center is a terrible business idea,” he said with a twinkle in his eyes. “It may sound strange, but our goal isn’t to make money. We have a customer criterion here, not an economic one.” The class, often smiling, concentrated on his every word.

“My one goal for tonight,” he said, “is that if someone pours you a glass of wine, you are going to know how to access it.” This was a class for beginners titled “The Elements of Wine : Wine Tasting, Wine Pairing, and Good Taste.” Other classes, all taught by well-known sommeliers and wine directors, have enticing titles like “Sommelier’s Secrets: How to Taste Wine Like a Pro” and “Blind Tasting Tips from a Master Sommelier.” Andy is acutely aware of the explosion of wine interest around the world and knows that the old ways of teaching are no longer enough.

The Study encourages close interaction between presenter and audience. Any event held  in this space will be a memorable one. We next met up with Astor Center Director Lesley Townsend. She is surrounded by winemakers and chefs, and loves every minute of it ! She says that Astor has a mission to perform.
“We want our customers to be educated about the purchases they make hereabout the whole subject of food and wine. Our classes aren’t just about wine laws and grape varieties, we want people to think about what they’re eating and drinking - how it was made, and by whom, and at what cost.” Do yourself a favor : look up Astor Center’s hit parade of star chefs, lecturers, and sommeliers and dive into its diverse happenings.
www.astorcenternyc.com
+1(212) 674-7501
 


ACKER MERRALL & CONDIT, founded in 1820, is America’s oldest and perhaps finest wine shop as well as one of the largest wine auction houses in the world. The store has a very friendly reputation and Upper West Siders feel as if they’ve entered the TV bar Cheers when greeted by the sociable managers Sean, Clifford and Sam or J.R., Jason and the rest of the sales gang and also the likeable, informative owner himself, Michael Kapon. Michael’s son, John Kapon, as President and Auction Director for Acker, Merrall since 1995, has been able to experience the world’s finest and rarest wines on a regular basis.

He has a rare passion for spreading the word about the world’s greatest wines and does this through his own tasting blog, “Vintage Tastings” and as head of the renowned WINE
WORKSHOP, affiliated with Acker Merrall, which calls itself “the world’s leading wine society open to the public.” Their regular weekly tastings at the Warwick Hotel sell out quickly, as do their top-chef restaurant dinners and special events like the $25,000 Wines of the Century Weekend in 2004.
They like to bring in expert lecturers like Helio San Miguel on Spanish wines or Stephen Tanzer and Clive Coates. As John says, “We want to offer the best series of wine tastings and dinners open to the public. We want people to try more things and expand their enjoyment of the world of wine.” “America is still a ‘Budweiser nation,’ but more people are discovering wine on a daily basis and appreciating that good wine equals a big part of good living.


Only a few years ago did Chardonnay pass white Zinfandel as the most consumed grape in America, an event I liken to a major evolutionary change, like Neanderthal to Homo sapiens.” Wandering through the shop on 72nd St, we felt highly evolved and more than a little thirsty to try these bottled beauties at the next tasting.
David Hamburger, Managing Director of the Wine Workshop, put it this way : “There is so much to learn about wine that once you get a thirst for it, the wealth of knowledge you could gain is unlimited.” They say a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing, but entering this Shangri-La of fine wines and hearing John Kapon describe his passion for tasting great ones, we couldn’t help thinking bring it on : it’s time to live a little dangerously.
www.winewkshop.com
+1(212) 875-0222

 

ITALIAN WINE MERCHANTS, at Union Square East, dealsexclusively with Italian wines. Owner Sergio Esposito is a leading authority on them and spends three months every year traveling around Italy searching out, tasting and selecting the best bottles for his shop. Every Saturday, the shop presents ‘Studio Regionale.’ a series of tastings focused on different regions or topics such as ‘Italy’s Thinking Whites’ or ‘When Points Fail.’ The wines are poured by an IWM sommelier and are paired with antipasti and other regional foods.

These tastings as well as informal seminars and private and corporate events are held in the impressive Studio del Gusto or the more intimate Vintage Room. Not only has wine become larger part of American culture, but IWM feels that the wine world has been turned on its head recently.
“Wine has become immensely popular in America, while Europeans have seen a surge in beer consumption instead.” Go figure !
www.italianwinemerchant.com
+1(212) 473-2323


DAVID TAKES A BREAK

 
After a long evening of tasting, my fingers were purplishgrey and teeth the color of cabernet. I needed some fresh air and stepped out to wander around my West Village block. I jumped back from a cab at the corner of Seventh Ave, and a familiar figure in green scrubs, with a stethoscope around his neck, walked briskly on his way to nearby St Vincent’s Hospital.
It was young Dr. Adam Smith, who I’d known for several years now ever since he worked at an Upper Eastside wine store called The Wine Shop. Now he’s doing his residency at St. Vincent’s. “David,” Adam called out. “Is that you ? Are you sick ? Your lips are all purple.

Oh, I see... you’ve been tasting !” I was used to running into the good doctor several times a week as he rushed to see his patients at St. Vincent’s. We often talked about wine. “By the way,” the Doc confided,“remember I told you I started a wine tasting club at my medical school ?
Well, now I’ve started hosting wine tastings for different departments at the hospital-faculty appreciation tastings, graduation tastings, and more.
The idea is to arrange fundraising events for special programs that are underfunded or that deal with patients with chronic illnesses such as cystic fibrosis. What do you think ?” “The Winebusters will help,” I told him. Then I handed him my card and disappeared into the night. What’s wine without food ?

Our next stop was RUSTICO COOKING, a midtown cooking school that offers private cooking parties, corporate events and most memorably for us- these classes are combine  with wine tastings ! There’s no better way to learn about cooking than to plunge right into it. Rustico starts with a hands-on lesson lasting about 30 minutes.
 

There were about 40 of us in the class that evening, broken into small groups at large kitchen stations making risotto with porcini and truffle oil, beef short ribs, roasted Brussels sprouts and other delectable dishes - all under the watchful eye of Micol Negrin, author of The Italian Grill and Rustico, and her husband and partner, Dino De Angelis.
The pleasant Micol makes her students feel very much “mi casa e su casa.” Cooking brings people together, and sharing tasks in a kitchen with others you may be meeting for the first time, is an effective way to bond.

 
The wine tastings commenced after the cooking class, led by another true pro in the world of wine, Costas Mouzouras. The genial Costas runs GOTHAM WINES and LIQUORS on the Upper Westside at 94th St. and Broadway.
He has started many trends, lectures on wine to amateurs and professionals, and is a regular guest wine expert on WSNR Radio. He has also been quoted in most wine magazines, including TASTED and Wine Spectator. The students listened and learned as Costas presented 9 wines from Piedmont, 3 with each of the three courses of food, ending with the great 1982 La Villa Paiagallo Barolo. Costas and Micol work seamlessly together.

The Italian born Micol covers every regional Italian food while Costas supplies the knowledge of that region’s wines. “Wine schools are so extremely popular,” says Costas, “because people are thirsty for wine knowledge and how to match it with food. These gatherings also turn into great social events.”
The group of  six at my table agreed - this 3 hour evening, fi lled with good wine, food and company (plus a copy of one of Micol’s hit cookbooks) was worth every penny of its $150 fee. Most everyonesigned up for the next region and a new taste bud adventure with Micol and Costas leading the way. We found what the New York Times wrote about Rustico to be true : “By the end of the evening... no one wanted to go home !”
www.rusticocooking.com
+1-917-602-1519
 


OTTO ENOTECA PIZZERIA, at 1 Fifth Avenue in the Village, is the brainchild of super chef Mario Batali and his elite restaurant partners. They also have an immensely popular wine school whose leaders are steeped in the intricacies of Italian wines.
Ferrian Shapiro, a young, attractive charmer with a uniquely effortless style has quickly turned her wine show into a “must see !” Ferrian lived several years in Italy, worked as an English teacher with students ranging from 5 to 65, and has an easy, practical approach to teaching wine. “It isn’t meant to be pretentious,” believes Ferrian.

“There is no difficult mystery that needs unraveling. It’s just nature speaking to man and wine and bringing them together.” Her passion for Italy gave us insights into the soul of the country and its wine. What an enjoyable time her two dozen students had discussing and tasting 5-6 wines from the Friuli region. Ferrian avoided the typical Italian varietals, pouring Tocai Friulano, Refosco, Nestri, etc.
To accompany the whites each person is served a plate with three different cheeses - parmesan reggiano, berg casa, and baita fruili. An assortment of Otto’s house cured salami is served to compliment the reds. In this introductory class Ferrian takes them through the basic steps of observing, smelling, aerating, and tasting.

She gives them confi dence so they can articulate what their taste buds are experiencing. She manages to talk one-on-one with each student who feels, by session’s end, he has gained not only knowledge, but a friend. Ferrian adds, “I want people to leave my class saying it was the most fun they ever had in a wine class, and also the most enlightening as to how diverse and profound Italian wine can be.”
It has been said that there are so many different vineyards in Italy that a squirrel could literally start along its northern border and hop along the vines all the way to its southern border without touching the ground ! If Ferrian Shapiro is teaching a wine class, you should, like the squirrel, follow this engaging gal through all 20 regions of Italy.
www.ottopizzeria.com
+1(212) 995-9559
 


“I get paid for drinking on the job,” says Howard Kaplan. Founded 27 years ago by Kaplan and fellow wine lover Robert Millman, EXECUTIVE WINE SEMINARS, originally specialized in private “wine events” for corporate clients. They still offer a whole range of “client-entertaining events,” but more and more, their public wine courses, like the 2-session ‘Ultimate Introduction to Wine Course’ at the Warwick Hotel are packing them in. “Our motto is we take wine seriously, but not too seriously,” Howard explained. “There are two types of wine people-the hedonist and the technician.

We try to balance the two, while favoring having a good time !” Who comes to these events ? An affluent group of wine lovers, mostly couples, who know wine but want to know more. He added, “It’s obvious that fine wine has become an important part of the American lifestyle.” Executive Wine Seminars specialize in blind tastings of purchased, not donated wine. They’re an independent company with no obligation to promote anyone’s wines. “The brown bag never lies,” informed Howard.

Their tasting notes are well respected and are published by Robert Parker on his web site www.RobertParker.com Howard’s an engaging host and shares his enthusiasm easily, but he does see one black cloud on the horizon. “It’s the price of wine. There’s too much greed out there.
We need to keep prices fair and search out better values.” Some of their other courses are ‘Comparing French and American Wine,’ and ‘Mastering Restaurant Wine Lists.’ They must be doing something right as they have lots of returning clients. They work hard to keep the atmosphere relaxed. And yes, according to Howard, true hedonists spit !
www.ewswine.com
+1(800) 404-WINE

 

Andrew Harwood founded NEW YORK CITY WINE CLASS in 2002 to help make wine accessible to people. He never planned on teaching, but he found he liked it and had a gift for it, an ability to relax people about a complicated subject without oversimplifying it. In fact, it’s become his new motto : “Relaxed...without over-demystification !” Try saying that after a few glasses of wine !

At their new loft on 23rd St. in Chelsea, NYC Wine Class offers an ambitious roster of public courses and private seminars and events. ‘Wine 101’- a one night introduction to wine, is the most popular and is repeated often. It’s so informative that it may lead you to try ‘Fundamentals of Wine Making’ or, if you’re not careful, you may find yourself signed up for the 4-session ‘Complete Introduction to Wine and Cheese’ with its 40 wines and dozens of cheeses.

There’s lots of blind tasting, which Andrew calls, “more fun than a roller coaster,” and a great mix of the social and the educational, of young and old, knowledgeable and new. But people come, Andrew has found, because they have a need. “They tell me, ‘I need to know wine’ or I need to take a wine class.’
It’s great to satisfy that desire. I love teaching.” And because everyone’s comfortable and at ease they’ll let Andrew know if he’s teaching too much and tasting too little.“There’s one student, in his 80’s, who will tell me, ‘Andrew, that’s enough talking, time to start pouring again. I love it !”
www.nycwineclass.com
+1(212) 647-1875

 

 
JOEL GOES UNDERGROUND

I was on the subway minding my own business. In my bag was an unfinished bottle of Chianti Classico from a case earlier that day. Someone had been stealing the roosters off the label. (I bucked the odds and solved the fowl crime.)
I’d forgotten to vacuum the rest to preserve it so I reached in my trench coat, pulled out a pump and started removing the air. That old pump made a little screeching noise with every movement and soon everyone in the car was looking my way.

The ancient woman next to me blurted out, “Oh, my god !”I realized I look like a terrorist with a bomb, so I smiled and said, “It’s all right. It’s just a little wine. I’m not a terrorist. I’m a terroirist !” I chuckled, hoping to ease the tension, but nobody seemed to get it. I tried again. “I’m not a bomber, though I may get bombed later on.” “You’d better have that with some red sauce and a big plate of pasta,” said a man dressed as a security guard. “That Sangiovese’s pretty acidic !

A banker-type in apinstriped suit chimed in, “Or a nice veal scallopini.” “Oh no,” the elderly woman next to me interrupted. “You need a nebbiolo with your veal.” “Get outta here,” the first man replied. “Gimme a zesty Barbera with my veal.” “No, no. Nebbiolo.” “Barbera !” “Sangiovese, you clown !” “Who are ya calling a clown, ya pinstriped pinhead ?” “Would anyone like a drink ?” I said over them, pulling out the bottle and several glasses from my bag. Before they could object, I poured out three glasses and passed them around.
There were three sniffs, three chewy swallows and three satisfied sighs. “Oh”, my neighbor lady said. “What lively cherry notes.” “Good balance,” said the guard, keeping his own as the train lurched to a stop. “A long finish,” added Mr. Stripes. “Well done.” This was my stop. I smiled, closed up my bottle and headed out into the sunlight. Subway school was finished for the day. Peace had prevailed.

On a wet, chilly winter evening, the Winebusters found themselves at Estonian House on E. 34th St. for a tasting of Bernard Magrez wines. This was one of 40 wine tastings and dinners sponsored every year by TASTERS GUILD/NEW YORK, the local chapter of Tasters Guild International, which considers itself the “oldest and largest wine and food educational organization” in the city.
We happily joined 33 other enthusiasts, including Guild Director, Ron Kapon, in discovering the rich, oaky, style favored by this wine maker at his many properties in Bordeaux, Spain and Argentina, culminating in the delicious Château Pape Clément, by the way, is Managing Director Emeritus of Acker Merrall & Condit and is a guest lecturer for the Wine Workshop.

Much of his focus is on the Tasters Guild these days and its private event affiliate, Wine Events Planner.Tasters Guild is a member organization. Join up and you get discounts for tastings and other goodies, but anyone can register for an event.
At Estonian House, there was a true mix of novices and professionals and a real camaraderie as we explored a dozen bottles of very fine wines. Future events include ‘1990 Bordeaux’ and ‘Chocolate and Wine Tasting.’ Hmmm. Pencil us in for that one. We love matching chocolate with anything. Or, as Ron says, “We are dedicated to the pleasures of the palate.”
www.tastersguildny.com
+1(212) 799-6311

 

Dilek Caner is a serious teacher and student of wine. “Making wine accessible is easier said than done,” she says. “Learning about wine is like learning a language.” She means you must combine technical study with lots of sensory input.
You must immerse yourself in wine as you train your palate. She founded TASTING WORLD, located in a loft at 38th St and 8th Avenue, because, “I wanted to do something really great.” The  training here is intense and rewarding. Dilek has worked at Alain Ducasse, Wine & Spirits Magazine and taught classes at the American Sommelier Association and the Institute for Culinary Education.

She has a Ph.D in Economics and is working towards her Masters of Wine. She leads one-session classes that cater mostly to consumers as well as 4-week and 8-week courses filled with pros and connoisseurs. She offers private and corporate events and you can even design your own tasting.
Dilek also runs an industry group of sommeliers who meet regularly to blind taste wines and recently shot an educational guide to Champagne, hoping it will be a model for other regions to come. Passionate and articulate, she knows when to improve. “Every class has to be different. If you bore yourself, you bore other people.” Our class of 12 started with a few introductions and then Dilek asked what we hoped to get out of the evening. One woman said she runs a consulting business and needs to know more about wine to help her network with clients.

Another student wanted to know how to pair wines and food better. Someone else simply said, “I want to know why I like what I want.” “You need a strategy to help you tell wines apart,” Dilek explained, as we started to sniff and sip our way through the glasses in front of us. The Sancerre and the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc showed quite clearly the difference terroir and climate can make. A strategy was taking shape. Just then, I noticed there was no spitting. Well, it’s Manhattan. No one drives home. My strategy is to take a cab. Now let’s try the Malbec.
www.tastingworld.com
+1(212) 679-8529

 

We first ran into Ned Towle at Café Centro in the Grand Central Station building where he was leading a tasting of ‘The Four Great Global Reds’ (Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Syrah). He taught us and charmed us at once. And like the Pied Piper, he lured us out of the big city all the way north to suburban Westchester. Ned Towle is a certified Wine Educator and Wine Judge who has spent time working in French vineyards. So he knows his wine.
He’s also a former CFO at the NYC Transit Authority so he knows how to make the trains run on time, (maybe !) and he has a divinity degree from Union Theological Seminary that reflects his passion and search for meaning in the simple pleasures of life.
 

The result is the joyous WESTCHESTER WINE SCHOOL, where well-educated suburbanites continue their wine education at the Hilton Hotel in Rye, NY. They’re a mix of beginners, wine enthusiasts, and would be pros- some starting their own bars and shops- mostly couples and groups of friends and some singles looking for a night out with a little knowledge on the side.
Ned offers private parties, corporate events as well as fund raisers. He has ten different tasting themes to choose from besides his two basic series of courses : ‘World of Wine’ and ‘European and New World Wine.’ To answer the demand for a more intensive program geared for people in the business or thinking about entering it, Westchester Wine School offers a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) Course over 7 evenings leading up to the CSW exam. Now if the trains up to Westchester only ran on time...
www.westchesterwineschool.com
+1(914) 478-5197

 

As long as the Winebusters were in suburbia, we made a quick stop at one of our favorite stores, Zachys Wine & Liquor. Old friend Ezio Vippolis is an Italian Wine Specialist at this upscale shop in fashionable Scarsdale. We interviewed him in the last issue of TASTED and remembered that he often moonlights as a host of wine tastings for private events and corporations. Ezio was excited to see us and talked about the changes he’d observed in the last 30 years.
 

“We are witnessing a huge growth in demand for knowledge from the general public,” Ezio said. “As a result, I have developed a passion to organize and teach wine tastings for private and large-scale corporate events in Westchester.” Ezio is especially sought after as a speaker at Italian wine events.
He’s also called on (and this made us pause, and wonder) to inventory and assess the value of private wine cellars of couples going through divorce proceedings. Good luck, Ezio.Ciao !
evippolis@zachys.com
+1(800)723-0241

 

 
THE WINE BUSTERS ARE REFEREES
 

We caught the Metro North back into Manhattan. Soon, another “call” came in. David answered and listened anxiously. “We’ll be there in thirty minutes,” he replied. “Keep those two apart and DO NOT LET THEM NEAR THAT BOX !” We arrived at the Adventurers Club in Manhattan in the middle of a heated argument between a young, pretty archeological student and a rugged, slightly over the hill fortune hunter. In front of them was an ancient scroll, in a long, battered box with brass rings at the side.
 

The pair had discovered it on a dig in a Middle Eastern desert. The scroll, written in ancient Sumerian,  was titled : The Vineyards of Eden. Both had grabbed hold of a handle, each laying claim to the discovery which scientists had examined and believed to be authentic. “It’s worth millions, and I found it!” spat Sam. “Wrong, you thief !” Becky fired back. “You just want the money.
I’m a scientist and a wine lover. This is a map to all the lost vineyards in the world and the best places on earth to grow grapes ! I intend to visit them all and share the discovery !” “Forget it, honey,” Sam replied. “The scroll goes to the highest bidder !”
 

As the fighting continued, the Winebusters intervened. “How about this,” David broached. “Let Becky use the map. You two could film a reality show as you search for the lost vineyards. There’s a lot of money in that.” “And after that you can sell the scroll,” Joel suggested. The two “owners” looked warily at each other. “I don’t know a thing about wine,” adventurer Sam admitted.
“Then maybe it’s time you learned,” suggested David. “We can recommend some classes you both can take. Learn about wine and learn about each other.” “What do you say, Sam ?” Becky asked. “Or is it too late for an old dog to learn new tricks ?” “I’ll sign on for a quick taste,” Sam said, taking up the challenge. “But that scroll better be the real thing.” And so begins the adventures and “misadventures” of this unlikely pair. The Winebusters will keep you informed.
 

“The joy of teaching is seeing the light bulb go on in people’s faces,” says Harriet Lembeck. Forty years ago, when Harold Grossman died, she took over the famous series of classes he had started in the 1940’s. At the time it was one of the few such programs around. Now, HARRIET LEMBECK’S WINE & SPIRITS PROGRAM still stands out as one of the best and most comprehensive around, serving both the trade and knowledge-hungry consumers of all levels.
“We get lots of sales people from stores who need to learn more, because customers are asking harder questions,” she informed us. “The wine business keeps expanding and improving. The knowledge business has to keep pace.”
 

The basic 14 session course covers all major areas of wine (and spirits) production and enjoyment. The classes are designed to get more intense and technical as the student advances, each class building on the one before. Harriet also teaches a series of 11 one-session courses such as ‘Wine for Couples,’ ‘Restaurant Wine Savvy,’ Wine Basic Training’ and ‘The Educated Nose.’
These tastings continue the work she was doing as Wine Director for The New School. Harriet’s classes take a place in an elegant 18th Century townhouse on East 29th St. What a glorious setting for tasting wine ! Sipping a full-bodied red in front of the fireplace, we could feel our brains expanding.
+1(212) 252-8989

 

Kevin Zraly’s WINDOWS on the WORLD WINE SCHOOL has graduated over 18,000 students since 1976 and is still one of the most popular and entertaining classes in town. The famous World Trade Center restaurant may be gone, but the school Zraly fashioned goes on, thanks, in part, to the continuing success of his book, the “Windows on the World Complete Wine Course.”
 

Classes meet at the Marriot Marquis Hotel in Times Square for 8 sessions covering all major wine regions. Zraly’s personal style is humorous and conversational. He believes that, “the most important thing about wine is not to take it so seriously,” so expect to have a little fun every night, along with your 10-12 glasses of knowledge.
www.windowswineschool.com
+1(845) 255-1456

 

Helio San Miguel has 10 Masters of Wine Candidates and numerous other professionals in his packed classes on Spanish wines at the INSTITUTO CERVANTES. Dedicated to the promotion of Spanish language and culture, the Instituto Cervantes, on East 49 St., has become THE place to go to learn about Spanish wines in New York. The two series of weekly seminars are limited to12 students tasting 12 wines from whatever region or producer is highlighted that week.
The series continues for 33 weeks, covering 11 general topics such as : ‘The Great Reds of Ribera del Duero,’ ‘In the Mood for Tempranillo’ and many others that illuminate the exciting new wines being developed in obscure Spanish regions by ambitious young winemakers.
 

Helio is a joy to listen to. He’s very passionate about what he does. Although he grew up in Spain surrounded by wine (his family owns vineyards in the Ribera del Duero), he actually has a Ph.D in the Philosophy of Science as well as an MFA in Filmmaking from NYU.
He’s a true scholar who believes that, “wine expresses a cultural point of view.” He writes about food and wine for a Spanish magazine and travels in Spain for 3-4 months a year, investigating new wines and serving his passion well.
When Helio started this program six years ago, the idea was “to help Spain receive the interest it deserves.” Now his classes are sold-out and Spanish wines are some of the hottest in the world. Olé !
www.cervantes.org
+1(212) 308-7720


Most of the places we visited so far focused on wine drinkers - from early-maturing beginners to late-harvest connoisseurs. But what if you want to be a wine professional ? THE FRENCH CULINARY INSTITUTE and the INSTITUTE OF CULINARY EDUCATION offer comprehensive cooking classes but also hold wine seminars and classes for potential pros and THE AMERICAN SOMMELIER ASSOCIATION has a
serious series of classes and exams for certifi cation. You also might consider THE INTERNATIONAL WINE CENTER, which has trained thousands of wine professionals since 1982 and also welcomes wine enthusiasts of all levels to its impressive classrooms on Seventh Ave in the Fashion District.

They are affiliated with the International Wine and Spirit Education Trust and offer WSET certifi cation. The Intermediate program has 8 sessions and is perfect for beginners. This may be followed by the Advanced program and fi nally the 2-year Diploma, which is the usual path to becoming a Master of Wine candidate.
The President of IWC is Mary Ewing-Mulligan, the fi rst woman in America to qualify as a Master of Wine (there are only 250 worldwide.) She is also co-author (with her husband, Ed McCarthy) of the best-selling book “Wine For Dummies.”
www.internationalwinecenter.com
+1(212) 239-3055
 

The greatest growth in wine consumption in the New York area is among young people, mostly urban professionals, who go out to restaurants and clubs to meet friends and relax from a stressful day at work. Who best serves their tasting needs ? It may be the social wine clubs that are springing up all over, fostered by the internet and maintained by e-mail. This is about wine as social lubricant.
And spitters need not apply. It was Friday night in the Meat Packing District and 350 people were swirling their glasses of Chilean cabernet and Argentine Malbec at Plumm’s on W.14th St.

This was the latest wine tasting soiree sponsored by the MANHATTAN WINE GROUP, the brainchild of Wall Street investment banker, Lyndon Freedman, whose profile on ‘Meet Up’ says he loves travel, wine and photography. This night’s theme is ‘Great Wine and Photography’ and three photographers have their work displayed around the club.

Clearly, Lyndon is in his element. He’s an excellent host, wandering the room introducing people and greeting new arrivals. There’s a great, expectant buzz in the room, fueled by the wine and the fact that it’s Friday night. It’s a friendly, talkative group, looking to network and have a good time.

Most of the crowd are singles in their 20’s and 30’s. They registered on-line, paying a cover charge for the space and appetizers. The glasses of wine are $7. Lyndon started the group two years ago and it continues to grow. There are over 3,000 registered members and 2-3 events a month. Upcoming evenings include ‘Wine Boot Camp,’ a more serious tasting of 24 bottles, and a ‘Steak Dinner and Wine Pairing.’
On the web site it says, “If you are interested in learning more about wine in a fun, non-intimidating atmosphere with like-minded individuals, then look no further.” What’s not to like ?
www.manhattanwinegroup.com
 

As the Winebusters headed home from the Meat Packing District we sought to clear our heads from weeks of tastings and come to some conclusion. We had sipped our way through dozens of classes and schools, sniffing here, spitting there, swallowing when we dared.
All had their strengths, yet all were different, a reflection of their personal terroir, a combination of the owner’s purpose and the customer’s need. Almost everyone we met talked about growth- in numbers of students, regions, bottles consumed, and especially in the desire for knowledge.

There is an undeniable need to know more about the expanding wine universe. Even when it’s just an excuse to get together and schmooze, the rules of the game- what makes a good wine, how best to enjoy it, etc- are still a major attraction. Almost as potent as the attractive person tasting nearby. When it comes to enjoying wine, ignorance is not bliss. And we’ll spit to that !


There are just too many schools and classes to visit, so we missed plenty of good ones.Other places to check out for tastings and seminars include the excellent stores Bacchus, Pour and the Chelsea Wine Vault, as well as the French Institute/Alliance Francaise and the 92 St.Y The list is growing as we write ...

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