On the stones, rocks and pebbles, locally called “caillottes”, fruity, aromatic and savoury wines, when young, are produced.The silex in the soil confers steely purity and mineral elegance with intense aromas, which develop with time. Sandy and gravelly soil gives freshness and fruitiness to the wine.
However, the geological make up of this region. Weather conditions were extraordinary to say the least. 2006 was a warm, dry year, producing grapes of excellent quality. However, the key to success lay in a rapid vintage. Winter was dry and spring (March-May) was marked by copious rainfall, which the vine welcomed. June (+2°C above the seasonal average) and July (+5°C) were very dry and also very hot.
 These conditions causing moisture in the upper soil layers suited the vineyards, which were two weeks ahead of themselves. Only young vines of 4-6 years old suffered any hydric stress. August arrived with lower than normaltemperatures (-3°C below the average). This and the normal rainfall for the month, allowed the vines to recuperate and not to be subjected to maturation blockage.

September started off with two very hot and dry weeks (+2,5°), broken by a violent storm on September 14th. The second half of the month was temperate with dispersed rainfall. The vines were healthy, with sporadic,easily containable outbreaks of disease. In fact, the grapes were in excellent sanitary condition.They were ripe. Sugar levels were high and acidity levels balanced. The aromatic intensity and the freshness were set. The “bans de vendanges” were proclaimed in the different appellations between September 11th-18th. Everybody was picking by that date and the grapes were brought harvested in the space of 10-12 days.
2006 Centre-Loire white wine is characterised by clean, intense aromas and ripe, rich and fine flavours. Opulent wine. The red wine has good colour, is fruity and intense and has attractive complexity. It is very varied, which adds to the interest of its panoply of wines.
It is of interest to mention the 35 hectares of Chasselas grapes that are still cultivated in the Pouilly sur Loire appellation. The Chasselas was planted in the mid 19th Century to provide the Parisian markets, “Les Halles”, with table grapes. Today, this grape variety produces a fresh, light, thirst quenching wine. Ideally suited for summer picnics!

We will dedicate the Overview in the “End of the Year Issue” of TASTED to all the Red Wines from these Centre-Loire appellations, in order to give them the space and the attention they deserve.The vines are trained on wires and Single Guyot is the most common way of pruning, leaving one arm with 7-8 fruit bearing eyes and a spur with two eyes, destined to produce the next seasons’ arm.
With the advent of Eutypiose and Esca, it has been found that the Cordon Royat pruning method is well suited to combat these two serious infections.Many growers are abandoning herbicides and returning to traditional ploughing of the soil or better adapted methods of weed control. Many have turned to the environmentally friendly, minimum intervention method of viticulture, and the biological and biodynamic approach to wine growing is also gaining ground.Vintaging usually starts in the appellations furthest to the west, such as Quincy and Reuilly, followed by Menetou-Salon, then Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé, and lastly the Coteaux du Giennois and Châteaumeillant. Average crop size ranges form 50-65 hectolitres per hectare.

In 2006, the 2,745 hectares of Sancerre produced 162,700 hl of wine. The vast majority was white, with a small percentage of red and a minimal amount of rosé. 1,190 ha of Pouilly Fumé produced 70,412 hl and the 35 ha of Pouilly sur Loire made 1, 987 hl, obviously only white wine here. 463 ha of Menetou-Salon produced 25,902 hl, of which more than half was white.
In Quincy, the 223 ha produced 12,283 hl of white wine. In Reuilly, 186 ha made a total of 8,941 hl, almost 70% of it white wine, 20% red and 10% rosé. The Coteaux du Giennois consists of 191 ha and produced 8,396 hl of almost equal parts of white and red. Châteaumeillant produced 3,956 hl, of which 70% was red and 30% was rosé. The Centre-Loire consists of 5,126 ha. 17% of the 2005-2006 production was exported to the USA.


Weather conditions were extraordinary to say the least. 2006 was a warm, dry year, producing grapes of excellent quality. However, the key to success lay in a rapid vintage. Winter was dry and spring (March-May) was marked by copious rainfall, which the vine welcomed. June (+2°C above the seasonal average) and July (+5°C) were very dry and also very hot. These conditions causing moisture in the upper soil layers suited the vineyards, which were two weeks ahead of themselves. Only young vines of 4-6 years old suffered any hydric stress. August arrived with lower than normaltemperatures (-3°C below the average). This and the normal rainfall for the month, allowed the vines to recuperate and not to be subjected to maturation blockage.

September started off with two very hot and dry weeks (+2,5°), broken by a violent storm on September 14th. The second half of the month was temperate with dispersed rainfall. The vines were healthy, with sporadic,easily containable outbreaks of disease. In fact, the grapes were in excellent sanitary condition.They were ripe. Sugar levels were high and acidity levels balanced. The aromatic intensity and the freshness were set. The “bans de vendanges” were proclaimed in the different appellations between September 11th-18th. Everybody was picking by that date and the grapes were brought harvested in the space of 10-12 days.
2006 Centre-Loire white wine is characterised by clean, intense aromas and ripe, rich and fine flavours. Opulent wine. The red wine has good colour, is fruity and intense and has attractive complexity.




The grapes were of exceptional quality and the 2005 vintage may well become known as a very special year! All conditions united to show the wines at their best. Overall, the season was warm and dry and the viticultural cycle followed the rhythm of alternating periods of very high temperatures and very fresh spells. This kind of weather follows the various steps in the yearly life of the vine and fulfils the needs of the grapes.
However, this idyllic picture was somewhat marred by quite violent hail storms in the Berry region.The warmth advanced the vegative cycle, and in particular, the sugar levels were pushed up by the heat. The spells of moderate weather were beneficial in balancingthe acidity levels, which remained stable until the end of the vintage.
The aromatic potential, especially in the white grapes, developed slowly and totally. The colour in the red grapes also profited from the favourable conditions. The skins were dark and the tannins completely ripe.

For once, the wine growers approached the vintage with serenity. The drought conditions had excluded any need for fungus treatment and therefore each parcel of vines could be picked at optimum maturity. Even more fortuitous, the weather was splendid – practically no rain, warm days and cool nights. Sancerre started off by picking the early ripening whites on September 7th. All the whites were picked before the reds. All the appellations finished, with Sancerre and the Coteaux du Giennois last, by September 17th.
The vintage, for both white and red, can be described as having elegant aromas, volume and generous power. The whites are intense, fruity with attractive mineral tones, full bodied and persistent. The reds tend to have very attractive colours, with ripe, red fruit flavours, generosity and opulence, with firm, but smooth tannins.


AOC SANCERRE
2006 SANCERRE, White
Joseph Ballad-Chapius - Le Chatillet
COLOR : Very pale, light yellow, brilliant reflections.
NOSE : Clean, fresh, vital and vibrant, mineral tones and good fruit. Delicious lemon acidity, round, supple and integrated bouquet.
PALATE : Fresh very crisp, juicy, succulent and dynamic, very well made. Lemon acidity / minerality, complex, well balanced and integrated. Fruit driven.

P. Archambault - Domaine de la Perrière
COLOR : Very pale, light yellow, brilliant reflections.
NOSE : Slightly reserved on attack. White fruit with fine citrus tones, fruit driven, clean acidity, long bouquet.Very deeply and fresh fruit.
PALATE : Lovely mineral acidity, lemon vivacity, deep fruit, but remaining integrated, long, vigorous and lingering finish.

Vacheron
COLOR : Very pale, light yellow, brilliant reflections. Lovely, light gold reflections.
NOSE : Very reserved. Delicate florality, gentle lemon bouquet. Fine, pure and gracious minerality and great purity of fruit.
PALATE : Fine and austere, but wonderfully pure and elegant. Made like delicately, intricate lace. Will be very fine wine indeed.

Alphonse Mellot - La Moussière
COLOR : Very pale, light yellow, brilliant reflections. Lovely, light gold reflections.
NOSE : Austere, but deep fruit. Hint of delicately grilled fruit. Lemon minerality. Lemon crisp acidity. Very pure, succulent, yet dry. Balanced bouquet with tremendous potential,
but holding itself in abeyance
PALATE : Reserved attack. Very mineral, inherently rich, but needs time. Serious wine, long, lingering, delicate flavours. A fine, austere Sancerre, which will develop and later show all its complexity. Patiently await this Sleeping Beauty.

Reverdy-Ducroux - Beau Roy
COLOR : Very pale, light yellow, brilliant reflections. Lovely, light gold reflections.
NOSE : Fragrant, fresh, but subdued. Ripe, yellow fruit. Fine acidity, hint of lemon mineral.
PALATE : Very rich in the mouth, grilled notes. Yet nicely austere, clean and mineral. Finish slightly weakening. Dry with fruit to the end.

Eric Louis - Les Celliers de la Pauline
COLOR : Deep, pale lemon yellow.
NOSE : Very chalky attack, very deep, ripe yellow and exotic fruit. Very opulent.
PALATE : Rich fruit, generous, nice acidity, roundness, but less defined. Fresh and pleasant finish. Opulent style of Sancerre, very respectable.

Phillipe Raimbault - Les Godons
COLOR : Light, pale lemon yellow.
NOSE : Subdued attack. At first shy, but opening into ripe, rich yellow fruit, touch exotic, grilled almonds. Hint of roasted notes. Nice minerality. Plump, fruit driven bouquet with minerality finish.
PALATE : Fascinating flavours and complexity. Fresh, very rich, sumptuous fruit, giving way to fine acidity and steely minerality. Leaves mouth clean and fresh. Quite austere, but most satisfying mouth feel. Well balanced and structured. Very long with fine finish.

Roger Champault - Les Pierris
COLOR : Very pale, light yellow. Lemon yellow reflections.
NOSE : Very toasted, empyromatic attack.
PALATE : Very reserved. Ripe, yellow fruit. Very fine and pure, quite shy but with definite breeding and finesse. Elegant mineral austerity.

Rolland Tissier
COLOR : Very pale, very light yellow.
NOSE : Hint of banana, deep yellow fruit, lovely minerality and fine, fresh acidity. Quite pure and complete bouquet. Richly expressed aromas.
PALATE : Juicy and succulent fruit attack. Steely structure, fine, lingering flavours in perfect balance with brisk, fresh, intense lemon acidity. Superb freshness. Fine and pure minerality. Long in the mouth. Well mastered, delicious wine. Very fine, harmonious Sancerre.


AOC SANCERRE
2005 SANCERRE, White
Serge Laloue - Cuvée Réservée
COLOR : Very pale, lemon yellow.
NOSE : Restrained, but attractive bouquet. Pure, fruit balanced by lively, crisp lemon acidity. Citrus notes against a mineral background, remaining delicate.
PALATE : Austere, pure, classic Sancerre. Forceful, yet delicate. Iron fist in velvet glove. Beautifully, lean, aristocratic flavours. Mineral purity. Long, haunting, lingering finish. This wine will keep very well, but is already lovely!

Guy Saget - Sélection Première
COLOR : Pale, light yellow, lemon reflections.
NOSE : Richly, sun ripened, yellow fruit, trace of roasted tones. Quite exotic expression of aromas. Hint of grilled notes. Fine minerality streak, quite fresh acidity. Intense, but balanced bouquet, thanks to fruit acidity.
PALATE : Similar structure, but restrained attack. Fruit flavours rich and quite generous, well balanced by fresh acidity. Grows in the mouth, lovely lively mouth feel. Finish long and invigoratingly citrus, yet deep fruit and minerality. Intense and crisp at the same time, considerable opulence showing class and breeding. Very persistent.

Michel Girard et Fils
COLOR : Very pale, very light, lemon yellow.
NOSE : Very citrus attack. Tremendous minerality. Clean, fresh, vital and rich yellow fruit, lively acidity to balance it all. Delicate hint of toasted notes.
PALATE : Round, rich, mellow fruit, backed by clean fruit acidity. Smooth wine. Very rich, very opulent Sancerre. Warm and generous and intense.

Henri Bourgeois - La Côte des Monts Damnés
COLOR : Very pale, light yellow.
NOSE : Refined, serious, and typical austerity. Clean, pure with lovely minerality and fresh, vivid, crisp mastered acidity. Ripe fruit. Superb, elegant and complex bouquet of great quality.
PALATE : Deliciously succulent. Very pure, rich flavours. Deep, refined, ripe and healthy fruit. Luscious expression, yet at the same time the austerity is beautifully managed. Very long with gracious minerality. Completely integrated and harmonious fruit and steely fruit acidity. Fresh mouth feel and lovely texture. Excellent, complex wine indeed with grace and beauty. A wine that has to be in your cellars. Purity and finesse.

Henri Bourgeois - La Chapelle des Augustins
COLOR : Very pale, light yellow, hint of lemon reflections.
NOSE : Lemon, mineral attack. Very fresh, invigorating lime tree, slight honeysuckle notes. Lovely ripe fruit. Deeply balancing crisp acidity. Complex bouquet.
PALATE : Floral acidity, blossoms and pure, intense fruit. Deliciously dry. Excellent, mouth feel, fine structure, long and mineral, yet fruit driven. Quite exotic. Steely core. Deep fruit to the finish. Pure and elegant.

Henri Bourgeois - La Bourgeoise
COLOR : Very pale, very light yellow with slight hint of lemon.
NOSE : Powerfully rich and ripe. Banana attack, floral acidity, firm minerality. Complete bouquet, but quite New World. Delicate grilled notes. Lovely firm and fresh lemon blossom acidity. Exotic, yellow fruit – mango. Well balanced with good mineral strain to end.
PALATE : Opulent with touch of severity. Pungent flavours, some oak, powerful style, but not typical Sancerre. Excellent but definitely fascinatingly Modern!

Joseph Mellot - La Chatellerie
COLOR : Fine, pale, light lemon yellow.
NOSE : Steely, fresh, crisp and vibrant minerality and fruit. Luscious fruit driven acidity. Excellent bouquet.
PALATE : Deep, rich, intense, ripe fruit harnessed by fine toned minerality and just the right amount of delicate, but very pure acidity. Perfect harmony, tremendously long and gracious. Great Sancerre procure fantastic pleasure.

Alphonse Mellot - Génération
COLOR : Lovely, bright pale yellow.
NOSE : Delicate and reserved. Floral and mineral fragrance.
PALATE : Very austere and pure, rather reserved wine. Deeply mineral framework. Rich notes up to a certain point and then finishes dry and mineral. Fine balance. Attractive now, but needs more time to mellow out and express itself fully. Patience!

Franck Millet - Insolite
COLOR : Very pale, light yellow. Bright reflections.
NOSE : Roasted banana, mineral background, lingering grilled almond notes. Upon aeration this is toned down and clean minerality and fruit driven aromas takes over. Rich, intense bouquet.
PALATE : Freshly, fruit driven, well balanced, quite deep and rich, well supported y very delicious acidity with minerality returning. A central core of fruit. Not very long, but nicely intense.

Jean-Paul Picard - Cuvée Prestige
COLOR : Very pale, very light yellow lemon.
NOSE : Lovely, if slightly shy attack. Fine, delicate minerality.
Ripe, fresh fruit, vibrant lemon acidity. Well mastered,
balanced, fresh and pure bouquet.
PALATE : Lovely expressed of combined florality and deep, fine fruit. Fresh fruit acidity, nice refreshing mineral background. Balanced and harmonious. Long and satisfying touch. Elegant style of great quality.

Daniel Crochet
COLOR : Very pale, light, lemon yellow.
NOSE : Clean, subdued, but quite elegant, refined and deliciously fresh, fragrant, lemon, mineral fruit. Delightfully elegant bouquet.
PALATE : Fine and delicate, but with intense flavours. Iron fist in a velvet glove. Well made. Very ripe, pure fruit, but well managed and controlled. Lovely balancing acidity. Long in the mouth with lingering, delicate minerality. Attractive, quality wine.

Pierre Riffault - Domaine du Carroir Perrin
COLOR : Very pale, light, white yellow.
NOSE : Very shy and slow start, developing quiet fruit and gentle, mild minerality, but then incredible fruity. Almond tones.
PALATE : Almond on attack, with crisp fruit and refreshing dry minerality. Clean, bright acidity to finish harmonising well with brisk fruit.

Gérard et Pierre Morin - Vieilles Vignes
COLOR : Very pale, very light white, yellow.
NOSE : Fresh, vital, deep invigorating minerality. Fresh, almond blossom. Lovely deep rich, very fresh, white fruit, floral note within mineral context. Pure waves of mineral core. Intense, fragrant and powerful.
PALATE : Big, deep Sancerre. Meaty with deep, rich fruit and long, deep flavours, yet surprisingly delicious freshness too. Harmonious, powerful and fresh! Well mastered wine

Langlois-Château - Château de Fontaine Audon
COLOR : Pale, light lemon yellow.
NOSE : Fresh and vibrant fruit with lemon acidity. A very delicate, fresh minerality. Vigorous and pure.
PALATE : Fresh, clean, succulent, juicy, ripe fruit. Lovely minerality. Lively, brisk acidity. Long, very well balanced and vigorous. Nice depth. Very complete, fine quality Sancerre.

AOC CHATEAUMEILLANT
2006 CHATEAUMEILLANT, Red
Geoffrenet-Morval - Extra Version
COLOR : Light, bright red ruby right up to the rim.
NOSE : Delicious, juicy fruity wine with attractive floral notes. Light and cheerful bouquet. Open and pleasing red fruit.
PALATE : Fruit driven ripe, real, ripe, up front, juicy red fruit. Serious management of wine creating charming wine. Full of fruit and freshness. Made to be enjoyed young, and even lightly chilled. Delicious!


AOC POUILLY FUME
2005 POUILLY FUME
Domaine Bonnard
COLOR : Very pale, very light, almost white yellow.
NOSE : Pure minerality, quite spicy, ripe fruit, racy acidity. Very fresh and vital
PALATE : Lovely fruit expression, vigorous acidity. Vibrancy. Round and nicely complex. Clean minerality, clean and refreshing finish. Notes of apple tart just before end.

Serge Dagueneau - Les Filles
COLOR : Very pale, very light, white yellow
NOSE : Delicious fragrance and excellent minerality. Crisp. Fine ripe fruit, fresh and invigorating, but very restrained and well mastered. Beautiful acidity balance. Long and lingering, elegant and fine bouquet.
PALATE : Succulent attack of refreshing minerality, very ripe, delicious fruit and lovely lemon acidity. Vital and vibrant. Depth, length, perfect balance and purity. Classy, harmonious expression. Excellent wine.


AOC REUILLY
2005 REUILLY
Domaine Jean-Michel Sorbe
COLOR : Bright, very pale, light yellow.
NOSE : Lovely crispness, vibrant. Fine and pleasing minerality. Ripe, fresh, vital fruit. Finely expressed acidity. Balanced and quite elegant bouquet.
PALATE : Ripe fruit, lively expression, good acidity. Well structured, well mastered balance of fruit, acidity and minerality. Long and refreshing finish. An elegant, harmonious
whole. Excellent Reuilly!

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