~ THE DISTRICTS OF THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY IN OREGON ~

        Since 2001, the number of registered wineries in Oregon almost doubled. Today there are not less than 314 wineries constituting a total surface of 14000 acrees of vineyards. Globally, the majority of Oregon wines, that means about 60% of the total production, are red wines mostly made of Pinot Noir. The Oregon white wines which represent only 40% of the total production are mostly made of Pinot Gris and Chardonnay.While Northern Oregon mostly sticks to Pinot Noir, it is quiet interesting and very exciting to discover the diversity of grape varieties used in the South.

A wide range of varietals such as for example Tempranillo, Riesling, Syrah, both Cabernets, Merlot, Gewurztraminer and even others are represented and sparkling, dry and sweet wines are produced. The most recent explosion of appellations in the Willamette Valley in Northern Oregon led me to study the motivations behind and share with you the results of my wine tastings. Everything started in the middle of the 1990’s when a group of Oregon wine pioneers starring amongst others Susan Sokol Blosser, Ken Wright, Harry Peterson, David Adelsheim, Dick Ponzi and David Lett decided to draw a map of Northern.

Oregon’s soils origins which was based on the fantastic works of the geologists David Johnson and Ray Wales. But the project did not really succeed, as the drawn borders did not convince other producers who did not believe in splitting the Willamette AVA. It finally took 10 years for the project to be accepted throughout the region. The examples of the sub-districts of Napa, the distinctiveness of vineyards in Burgundy and the motivation of the Oregonians to differentiate soil types brought reasons to file and receive the AVA status for the defined districts.
Still today, some winemakers are not completely convinced by those districts and the differences that may be in the produced wines. I must say that Oregon with only 40 years of “modern”winemaking history is still a young producing region, but I’m sure it has the potential to become one of the leading wine regions in the future.

What is most important for Oregon winemakers to do, is communicating on their products. In today’s market economy, were consumers have an increasing interest in knowing more about the products they eat or drink, it is primordial to have the right communication tool for a better education of the consumers. And Oregon has so much more to offer!
The Willamette Valley is a large area and I noticed differences in the wines I tasted based on their origins. Some could say that this is just the result of different winemaking styles, of course this has some importance as well, they are right and I completely agree with them. But, even though, the vines are still young for most of them, it is in the core of the wine where the taster has to look.

The body weight of a wine reflects the soil it comes from. A wine is not made in the cellar, but in the vineyard! It is up to the winemaker to understand where his grapes come from in order to reveal all the expressions of the soil through the work done in the cellar.The composition of different topsoils and bedrock explain how the sub-districts have been defined. Some 200 Million years ago when two tectonic plates, the “Juan de Fuca” (from the Pacific) and the continental Plate collided and sheared off the soft sediments of the ocean floor, creating the Coast Ranges and the still active Volcanic Cascades Mountains (the last eruption of Mt St Helens was in 1980).
Ever since their arrival those soft sediments have been weathered from exposure to the elements and pressured to become compact. This created the sandstone and siltstone mother rock which lie below most of the Willamette Valley vineyards that now facilitate the drainage and in the mean time stress the vines to go deeper. This helps these vines gaining more complexity and character.

In the last 20 Million years, high volcanic activities in Central Oregon led to flooding of basalt into the Willamette Valley with best examples located in the Dundee Hills and Eola Amity Hills Districts. 5 to 7 Million years ago, a twenty five hundred foot high ice dam collapsed and burst forth the water from Glacial Lake Missoula (Montana). This Ice Flood left visual scenes along its path that are still seen over the States of Montana, Washington, Idaho and Oregon.

The waterfalls from the Columbia Gorge and the steep walls of the river all along its course to Astoria in Oregon where it ends are marks from this Ice Flood. After the ice melted, large boulders dragged from the topsoil remained, they can still be seen throughout the states.
The melted ice was passing through the land at a speed of 50 Miles per hour (10 times faster than the flow of all rivers in the world combined). This area is known by geologists as the Channeled Scablands. 2005 was the year when the Willamette Valley AVA was divided in districts (the latest being the Chehalem Mountains in December 2006).

The complex series of soils led to the delimitation of the region. Two major soil types are to be recognized : First of all the Ocean Sediments derived from sandstone material with two soil types called Willakenzie and Bellpine: found most likely on the Western side of the Willamette Valley. Those could have barriers to root and water penetration. Secondly the Volcanic Soils derived from basalt parent material that originated in Eastern Oregon. Two have been distinguished : Jory (rich in Iron oxide that gives the red color, good drainage, usually 4 to 6 feet in depth which encourage the grape vines to grow deep into the soil) and Nekia (shallower with less clay, more stones and gravels, better drainage than Jory). Laurelwood is however very promising for extracted Pinot Noir.

But the soil type is not the only factor which has been taken into consideration while delimitating the different districts or “terroir” of the Oregon Wine region. The Micro Climate also plays an important role in a terroire delimitation. The Micro Climate factor is considering the year round temperature and rainfall, altitude and protection from wind. From this point of view, as we all know, The Willamette Valley is well suited and the comparison with Burgundy might not be accurate in many aspects.

The Coastal Ranges constitutes a natural barrier protecting the valley from the extreme coastal rainfalls. The valley’s average rainfall lies at about 40 inches a year, which is still a higher average rainfall than in Burgundy with 25 inches. The rain occurs in Oregon from November to April whereas in Burgundy it rains all year long.
This low average rainfall in Burgundy also low the pressure of diseases during the dry summers but can create sometimes drought fixed by the irrigation which is legal in Oregon, not so in Burgundy.The temperature in Oregon is very wine friendly. The proximity of the Pacific Ocean moderates the temperatures year round and the Ocean breezes bring cool nights after hot days which help tremendously the Pinot Noir to ripe properly and smoothly. The results are better anthocyans and Ph levels. Harvests happen later in the year, often late September – beginning of October whereas in Burgundy harvests take place earlier by mid September.

Moreover, most of the vineyards are located at an altitude between 300 feet and 800 feet. At around 300 feet, the vines always get ripe and show richness and extraction while at about 700 feet; the wines develop more finesse and delicacy. On an ecologic note, Oregon is on the cutting edge of soil science and most of the vineyards are managed under sustainable viticulture through both Organic and Biodynamic approches.
Interesting also is to notice the importance of the rootstocks in Oregon. The vines of Pinot Noir were originally planted on their own roots, making them susceptible to Phylloxera. When the first clones of Pommard and Wadenswil appeared, clusters were larger with more weight and the maturity was longer; that pleased most of the wine growers.

Then the Dijon Clone was released in Oregon, with a smaller cluster at first not convincing, but slowly the Dijon clone appeared to bring different flavor profiles and so develop options for the winemaker to play with it in blending the different vineyard lots. The main vineyards have a high density plantation to develop the foliage exposition, that captures the light of the sun and then to control it by nurturing the few grapes per plant for a fully ripen fruit at harvest.

CHEHALEM MOUNTAINS (AVA established 12/27/2006)
The Chehalem Mountains is a single land mass covering close to 100 square miles on the Northern Willamette Valley from Portland on the East to Gaston on the West. The Bald Peak is the highest point of the Chehalem Mountains. At 1633 feet, it affects the weather within the region and distinguishes it from adjoining grape growing hillsides and lowlands not appropriate for viticulture.
As most of soils are represented in this ava, it is more the geography and climate that differentiate it from the others. With 1600 acres of vines planted and plots of vineyards scattered in several discrete spurs, mountains and ridges, the region produces a wide range of Pinot Noirs. About 100 vineyards and more than 30 wineries have taken place since the late 1960’s when Dick Ponzi and Harry Peterson from Chehalem established themselves here.

PONZI
Nancy and Dick Ponzi established the winery following their passion for food, fun and wine and reviving the Italian family’s (of Dick) tradition of home winemaking. With now their grown children, they perpetuate this passion for the land and the grapes as they care for Luisa (the winemaker), Maria (the marketing icon) and Michel (the musician of logistics). The Estate vineyard is one of the oldest of the Willamette Valley, planted in 1969. The other 3 vineyards, Abetina (2 acres planted in 1975), Madrona (10 acres planted in 1985) and Aurora (65 acres planted in 1991) are all nurtured to make the international fame of Ponzi wines.

~ 2005 “Willamette” Pinot Noir ~
This wine results from a blend of different outsourced vineyards. The Pinot Noir has a medium intense, bright red ruby color and exhales of black cherry, light spices, raspberry aromas. The palate expresses a delicate touch with smooth and elegant tannins (part from the fruit part from the oak – 30% new French). It evolves with a moderate length to tobacco flavors and chocolate. The acidity has a good grip and brings lightness. It finishes gently.

~ 2005 “Reserve” Pinot Noir ~
The three vineyards of Ponzi make this Reserve, all located on basalt subsoil from Laurelwood soil. The wine shows a dark color, almost black. The nose is closed; tends to reveal lots of blackberry fruits with cedar, truffle, forest floor, dried rose leaves aromas. This complexity is tremendous. The mouth is comparable of full bodied texture with racy, intense tannins.
The acidity supports very well the flavors of smokiness, meatiness and toastiness that results from the wood aging (50% new French oak). Earthy, with black fruits and a finish on spices again and light violet floral flavors. The care during the winemaking for gravity and gentle process, results in a wine with great character, masculine overall but with that touch of feminism which distinguishes it from most of the over full bodied Pinot Noir I have
tasted without that gentle touch.


CHEHALEM
Harry Peterson-Nedry is one of the pioneers of the Willamette Valley. His experience of the vineyard sites makes him a figure in the region when the sub-districts were to be decided. His winery is located on the eastern edge of the Chehalem Mountains but many sources are searched by Harry to best complement each other in the wines. His partnership with several wine growers guarantees the best quality Pinot Noir.

~ 2004 “Ridge Crest” Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge) ~
With a light red ruby color, the wine expresses aromas of dried red berry fruits with some peppery character. The palate tends to be lighter than what is showed on the nose. Great balance overall.

~ 2004 “Stoller” Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills) ~
Elegant light red ruby color, the wine has delicate floral, lemony aromas. There is a great presence in the mouth of dark fruit, cherry, black currant. The different layers of flavors are coupled with a fresh acidity that elevates them. The long finish, earthy, seats on rich tannins and brings firmness to the final wine. Almost 50% new French oak are used that do not even overtake the complexity of the wine.

~ 2005 “3 Vineyards” Pinot Noir ~
This wine is the result of 3 vineyrds that have different soil composition: Stoller on Jory soil – Ridgecrest on Willakenzie soil – Corralcreek on Laurelwood. The combination of those different characters produces a wine with a pale red garnet color. The wine is quite discrete on the nose with more floral than fruit aromas. The mouth is elegant with soft tannins, lush red berry fruits appear with an elegant touch of light spices, almost sweet. This is gentle Pinot noir that pleases the palate.

~ 2004 “Reserve” Pinot Noir ~
The Reserve is a selection of the best barrels or fermentation lots from the Ridgecrest Vineyards on Willakenzie soil. The vines are at least 25 years old. With a dark purple color and slight rim variations, the wine shows intense black fruit aromas of cherry, plum with violet. The touch in the mouth is remarkable, moderate tannins, racy and soft; the high acidity is caressing and brings up the flavors. The finish is long.

~ 2004 RR ~
This is the first vineyard of Harry planted in 1980 in the Ribbon Ridge. The first vintage was released in 2002 and was sold under its own label “RR”, this is actually the Ridgecrest vineyard site cheered by Harry as its best vineyard. The intense red ruby color is quite shy to announce an intense aromatic wine. The notes of black fruit, complex aromas of barnyard with spices, tobacco are intense and persistent. The great texture in the mouth shows firm tannins, crisp acidity with a sumptuous finish on black fruits and slightly smoky.


JK CARRIERE
Jim Prosser founded JK Carriere in 1999. Jim is a self made character who through tough time and free living has found his path in a successful winemaking carriere. After working for some wineries in Oregon but also in New Zealand with Roumier in Burgundy, this is in Oregon where he went back to make some of the most authentic “food friendly” Pinot Noir.

2004 Pinot Noir
Very dark red purple color, the wine has an intense nose of black cherry, hay, spices, slightly peppery. The mouth is tight, rich with firm tannins and a fresh acidity. Flavors of cloves appear towards the end on a long finish. Less than 20% of new oak were used to express the combination of the different terroirs, for this cuvee. The wine is completely in its youth, will need age to settle.


BERGSTROM

Josh produces 90% of Pinot Noir, the remaining being a wonderful dry Riesling with high minerality and a great balance (Dr Loosen may have found his counterpart in Oregon), a great Pinot Gris that has not seen any oak and a well balanced Chardonnay.

Bergstrom is under Biodynamie since 2004, it reveals in his wines a greater complexity, reflects even more the notion of terroir that Josh pursues in making his Pinot Noir.

2005 “Cumberland Reserve”
Josh sources 50% of the grapes to produce about 4000 cases a very concentrated Pinot Noir. Lots of spices are noticed right away on the nose, out of 12 vineyards in the origins; most of the grapes come from the Shea Vineyard. On the palate, the wine shows rich tannins, very racy along with black cherry fruits. Very long, this wine has a long aging potential.

2005 “De Lancellotti Vineyard”
The sandy soil that characterized this small lot of Pinot Noir, stresses the vines to work harder. The resulting wine is so black that you may not think of Pinot Noir. The nose of black fruit, tobacco, spices, leather is confusing. The extraction is monstrous in the mouth, muscular, intense with silky tannins and a great acidity level that lightens the whole structure. Very impressive!

2005 “Bergstrom Vineyard”
Located beside Cameron (another great winery I could not visit unfortunately), this young 7 hectares vineyard is composed of chalk. The cold soak of 12 days gave an intense red black cherry color. The aromas lead towards fl oral and light black fruits notes. The mouth is still powerful and shows also smooth tannins with an elegant structure.

2005 “Estate”
This is the kind of wine that attracts the Pinot Noir “Afi cionados”. The whole cluster has been used, and then punched down by foot (like in Portugal for the Port wine). Only 100 cases produced of a wine with an almost black color. The aromas are tight, lots of spices, black pepper (very unusual), cloves with plum, and prunes aromas after breathing a little.The mouth is huge, expressing extracted tannins, great acidity and a very long fi nish. This is defi nitely one of the kind Pinot Noir to keep for at least 5 years before opening a bottle.

DOMAINE SERENE
Established in 1989, the winery is located on top of the hill on Dundee, all vineyards are located on Jory soil, giving the complexity and depth to each vine. Tony Rynders, winemaker, insures that the vineyards are managed to create low crops. The winemaking processes are maintained to make wines with finesse and elegance while full bodied. Serene is the name given by owners Ken and Grace Evenstad to their daughter. Their son, Mark Bradford, was given a vineyard after his name in 1993 when MB vineyard was planted.

2004 “Yamhill” Pinot Noir
This wine comes from different vineyards from mostly the Dundee Hills and 1/3 from the Eola Hills districts. Each vineyard is grown and controlled by Domaine Serene to ensure a high quality of grapes. The wine only sees 25% of new French oak to leave place to the true expression of the Pinot Noir. With a medium intense red ruby color, the wine expresses a smoky nose with light red berry fruits of raspberry. The texture is elegant, light with soft tannins. The length is moderate and leaves a fresh note in the end from a crisp acidity.

2004 “Evenstadt Reserve” Pinot Noir
The sources for the flagship of the winery are found in both Eola Hills and Dundee Hills. Like most of the wines at Domaine Serene, the Evenstadt Reserve does not undergo any filtration and is unfined. With 71% of new French oak, we could think of an over extracted Pinot Noir, but no, the wine shows a dark red purple color.
The nose of blond caramel, toastiness has meaty aromas after breathing and then reveals light spices with raspberry, plum with a long persistence. The palate is dense with volume and depth in the middle. The tannins are racy, firm with a vibrant acidity to go along with. The flavors of black fruit and chocolate in the finish are superb. The oak is very well integrated.

2003 “Winery Hill” Pinot Noir
At an altitude of above 800 feet, this estate vineyard produces wines of great complexity. The Jory soil and dry farming contributes also to obtain small and thick berries that add to the characters of the wine.

With a little bit more than 1.5 tons per acre, the concentration is obvious. 80% of medium plus toast French oak barrels can explain the dark garnet color, very dense. The aromas of dark fruit, blueberry,black cherry, tobacco box, earthiness are intense and of high persistence. On the palate, the wine is full bodied, with tight tannins but very refined. The flavors of black fruits are even more intense than the nose. The length is remarkable and stays long and fresh.