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May - Wine of the Month : Château de la Gardine

By Petronella Salvi

Château de la Gardine 2004, AOC Châteauneuf du Pape, Red
67 – 70% Grenache, equal parts of Syrah & Mouvèdre.

Colour : Fine, quite textured appearance, crimson red, with deeper heart. Vivid and medium intensity, ruby flame reflections.
Nose : Healthy, fresh and fruity attack. Fragrant, delicate hint of rich, red flowers. Spicy notes against background of smokiness. Fine fruit concentration. Both red and black stone and berry fruit. Notes of blueberry, but also red plum and cherry. Hint of more gamey tones. Quite fresh, energetic acidity. Individual panoply of aromas, but balanced in expression and lingers on. Complex elegance.
Palate : Excellent fresh, fruit attack. Fruit integrated and generous. Lovely, firm, round tannins, dense structure, mild, smooth texture. Delicate touch on finish, tones of leather. Trace of musk and spice. Gamey note. Power behind the mellowness. Deep, ripe, fruit flavours – lingering in mouth. Lovely wine. Still improving.


THE LOCATION


WHERE ?
Château de la Gardine is not very far from the historic town of Châteauneuf du Pape, on the top a long sloping hillside. The Rhône Valley witnessed the planting of vines over 2600 years ago. The Châteauneuf du Pape vineyards have had a colourful and agitated past, which helped to breed the present fascinating generation.

WHO ?
Since 1945, the Brunel family, who has been growing wine since 1676, has owned Château de la Gardine, then a mere 8 hectares. The encounter between Gaston Brunel and the “terroir” of Châteauneuf du Pape was a turning point and it became his life and his conviction.
He enlarged the estate and added the “Vignobles de Rastey-Roaix” (48 hectares of superb slopes) to the property. Philippe Brunel followed in his footsteps, as did his grandson, Patrick Brunel. Today the property covers 54 hectares.

HOW ?
A dedicated, full time personnel of 30, including several members of the family, collaborate to make this an exceptional estate.
 
 
THE VINES

WHO ?
The property has remained resolutely family owned and family run. Patrick and Maxime Brunel are totally involved in all aspects of wine growing and wine making.
Each member of the personnel, including family members, is trained to accomplish the whole spectrum of functions. The exact mission depends on aptitude and age. It is a question of family pride and honour.

WHERE ?
The soil is characterised by the three major geological elements. Rolled, smoothed pebbles of various sizes, shaped by the ages, gravelly and sandy soil, but also calcareous deposits, with some red clay. This complex soil composition is excellent for the vine.
Geography also plays an important role and Château de la Gardine possesses a rich tapestry of soil, of landscapes and of microclimates that create its complexity. Maximal depth of arable soil is 45cm, before hitting stone or rock bed.
The roots are tortuous and plunge deep for moisture and nutrition. Châteauneuf du Pape is a region of extremes: very hot, very cold and very dry spells, followed by tremendous downpours, which have to be taken into serious consideration.

WHAT ?
This very diversity also leads to a wide range of grape varieties. The art is to plant the right variety on the right soil, without neglecting all the other factors that influence the “terroir”, and thus the ultimate potential of the wine.
Large differences exist between their vines on the hills and slopes and those that can survive the ferocious heat on the plateau. The saving grace is the diversity of microclimatic conditions.
Great care is taken NOT to subject vines to additional stress by bad management. In the view of Patrick Brunel, the vine only starts producing the sort of quality that he is looking for after 12 years. Red varieties: 60% Grenache Noir, 15% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre, the rest being made up by the mythical Picpoul, Terret Noir, Counoise, Muscardin, Vaccarèse, Picardan and Cinsault. White varieties: Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Clairette.

HOW ?
In parcels of older vines, some dating back to 1925. The density is 2,500 vine stocks per hectare. Today the norm is 4,000-4,400, but with less bunches per vine. The average production, over the last ten years, has been 28 hectolitres per hectare for the red wine and 34 for the white wine. The vines are trained and ploughed according to trusted local methods. No textbook viticulture. Strict winter pruning, minimal intervention and limited treatments with grassing between alternate rows.

Organic, farm and grape-marc composts are used as fertiliser. Debudding when required and green pruning at the end of July, further limit the production. Only the best bunches are retained. Mechanical deleafing is effective to combat attacks of Botrytis. Attentive viticultural management is practiced throughout the vegetative cycle.
Careful observation to determine the perfect ripening of the grapes and to assure harmonious vinification, particularly during the vintage. The Mistral wind dries out moisture and protects the vine against fungus attacks at this delicate stage.


THE WINES

WHO ?
The family team. In the vineyards, in the cellars, on the bottling line, the principle of a “breakdown scenario” is vigorously pursued.
That is to say, a multiplication of key pieces of equipment in order to avoid any catastrophe in case of a breakdown at a vital moment. Electricity generators, spare parts, extra vats, additional pipes, etc.

WHERE ?
Patrick Brunel is convinced that excellent wine is made only with impeccable quality grapes. Their father was a hard working perfectionist and left the present generation a splendid heritage of magnificent vineyards. The art is in the perfect transformation of the grapes. Precision is fundamental.

HOW ?
Maturity is closely monitored. The Syrah is picked in two phases. The first to follow the Grenache harvest, the second to accompany the Mourvèdre. Manual harvesting, by local teams, into 33Kg boxes. The whole process is organised down to the last detail. Strategically positioned sorting tables are manned by 8 people. Depending upon the sanitary state of the grapes, the vintage is partially destalked.
Nothing is either fixed or systematic. A very modern and adjustable destemmer-crusher is used and the grapes are then moved into the different thermo-regulated stainless steel vats, all of which have punching down equipment. Cold soaking before fermentation (for 2004). Low temperature to start the fermentation, then up to 32-33°C. Pumping over, to ensure aeration, is a very important technique.

 Respect and attention every step of the way. Malolactic fermentation both in barrel and in vat. Barrel maturing is carefully managed, 50% new oak being the maximum. A very cool cellar, especially in summer, is essential.
8% of the production of Château de la Gardine is white wine. In 2005, 35% was vinified in barrel, essentially the Roussanne. White varieties are vinified separately. After direct pneumatic pressing, the must is cold settled. Grapes from young vines are fermented in vat (18-20°C). The fruit from older ones are fermented in barrel with frequent stirrings of the lees early on. In time this is reduced, and finally, the wine is left quietly on the on lees until July. The meticulous choice of both wood and coopers ensures that the characteristics of each barrel correspond to the specific style of the wine and therefore enhances it. Château bottling after gentle filtration.

Château de la Gardine will continue to produce balanced wine, rather than producing showpieces. The particularity of their red wine is the osmosis between the different grape varieties from the onset. Each fulfils a different function within the entity and this is the magic aspect of these wines. It requires deep knowledge, profound comprehension, long experience, talent and a sensitive soul, to craft a master piece that will mellow and refine over a period of time, whilst showing its different facets.

MARKET SITUATION

Château de la Gardine is now working with Shaw-Ross International Importers. The family is confident that steady growth will now ensue.
Contact : chateau@gardine.com

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