June - Wine of the Month : Château Fonchereau
By Petronella Salvi
Château Fonchereau 2006, AOC Bordeaux Supérieur
Colour : Dark, deep, almost black purple. Good density and well knit appearance.
Nose : Deep fruit aromas. Blackcurrant, blackberry, red plum and prune. Spicy tones, hint of nutmeg. Freshly young and quite juicy. Bouquet with fruit concentration that has not been allowed to become overbearing. Smoky touch.
Palate : Hugely tight and compact. Deep and very dark flavours. Very concentrated. Needs time to aerate and to show itself. Upon opening up, spicy notes, good acidity. Very full bodied, but tapers off at the end. Tannins obviously very present at this very early stage, hint of severity, but nicely round and quite ripe, plenty of smoky fruit, which will cope with it in time. Very youthful.
Finish pleasantly succulent. Blackcurrant finish gives good mouth feel. Texture quite smooth. Compact, clean, well made wine, still showing that hint of austerity, which characterises good Bordeaux
THE LOCATION
The present owner, passionate about wine, took possession of the property, in 2006, and therefore has had little time to achieve very much of the immense projected restoration of the property.
However, as per the above tasting notes, the vintage was far from neglected. Obviously, this property will have to be revisited in the future to measure the degree of change.
However, as per the above tasting notes, the vintage was far from neglected. Obviously, this property will have to be revisited in the future to measure the degree of change.
The enthusiastic Alfredo Ruiz Sanchez, who moved here with his entire young family, abounds with energy and is already firmly involved, and very much present, in every aspect of the rehabilitation of the property. The place is a hive of activity, with tremendous work underway on all fronts.
WHERE ?
In the hilly Entre-Deux-Mers, between the Garonne and the Dordogne, on the doorstep of Bordeaux, near Montussan. The château is approached by a tree lined road and bordered on one side by a sweeping park with delightful distant views. It backs onto a courtyard and facing the vinification installations opposite. The neat château is ideal as a large family home and will soon be restored to recapture its former glory. Its history goes back to the late 16th Century.
WHO ?
Alfredo Ruiz Sanchez comes from Cultacan, Sinaloa, in Mexico, and was the Mexican consul in Bordeaux, in 1993. A jurist by profession and a politician, he reached a turning point in his life, took that professional turn and decided to follow his passion. He is totally in love with this property, which he acquired together with an associate.
WHY ?
The previous owner, living in Mexico, left the property behind in a state of complete neglect, but with huge potential. This on condition that Alfredo Ruiz invests heavily and wholeheartedly.
The previous owner, living in Mexico, left the property behind in a state of complete neglect, but with huge potential. This on condition that Alfredo Ruiz invests heavily and wholeheartedly.
HOW ?
Mexico may be the other side of the world, but Sinaloa is a successful agricultural region with many similarities to Bordeaux. Château Fonchereau will demand an entrepreneurial spirit, determination to succeed, tenacity in the face of disappointment, and above all, the desire to prove that the estate is capable of producing excellent wine.
Mexico may be the other side of the world, but Sinaloa is a successful agricultural region with many similarities to Bordeaux. Château Fonchereau will demand an entrepreneurial spirit, determination to succeed, tenacity in the face of disappointment, and above all, the desire to prove that the estate is capable of producing excellent wine.
PHILOSOPHY ?
The driving force behind Alfredo Ruiz is his respect for tradition, for the savoir-faire and experience of this prestigious wine region, for people who strive for improvement. He wants his wine to “speak” to the consumer. This requires total renovation of the property and tremendous.
It also demands both modesty and appeal to the inner self. He is very conscious of the fact that he is brand new on the scene and to the wine world, but he is learning everyday and will continue to do so. He entered the adventure with an open mind, humbly and simply, but with the will power to see it through to ultimate success and completion.
The driving force behind Alfredo Ruiz is his respect for tradition, for the savoir-faire and experience of this prestigious wine region, for people who strive for improvement. He wants his wine to “speak” to the consumer. This requires total renovation of the property and tremendous.
It also demands both modesty and appeal to the inner self. He is very conscious of the fact that he is brand new on the scene and to the wine world, but he is learning everyday and will continue to do so. He entered the adventure with an open mind, humbly and simply, but with the will power to see it through to ultimate success and completion.
THE VINES
WHO ?
Almost the entire team was replaced. Manual labour is costly therefore care is taken to appreciate and to fairly recompense dedicated and conscientious work. The involvement of the personnel and the implementation of their qualities are essential.
WHERE ?
30 hectares in one composite entity with the possibility of a further 20 hectares, at present still woodlands and fields. A protected microclimate ensures the rarity of late spring frosts, as do the surrounding woods. Vineyards are situated on well exposed slopes.
WHAT ?
Excellent quality, well drained, clay and gravel soil. Planted with 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc. The white wine is from 100% Semillon. Vintage both by hand and by machine, depending on the terrain.
HOW ?
The present policy insists of minimum intervention, inspired by an ecological approach and by meticulous attention to tending the vine, just as one would care for a precious garden. Almost all the viticultural and agricultural equipment had to be replaced in order to accomplish the transformation of the vineyard and return it to optimum quality. Already 7 hectares have profited from better canopy management and the enlargement of the foliage capacity.
All missing vine stocks have been replaced. Ploughing and working the soil have been reinstated. The advice of his consultancy team is vitally important, and helps him to make decisions, as is that of the local, official bodies. Tradition improved by modern, scientific knowledge is part of Alfredo Ruiz’ philosophy.
WHO ?
Almost the entire team was replaced. Manual labour is costly therefore care is taken to appreciate and to fairly recompense dedicated and conscientious work. The involvement of the personnel and the implementation of their qualities are essential.
WHERE ?
30 hectares in one composite entity with the possibility of a further 20 hectares, at present still woodlands and fields. A protected microclimate ensures the rarity of late spring frosts, as do the surrounding woods. Vineyards are situated on well exposed slopes.
WHAT ?
Excellent quality, well drained, clay and gravel soil. Planted with 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc. The white wine is from 100% Semillon. Vintage both by hand and by machine, depending on the terrain.
HOW ?
The present policy insists of minimum intervention, inspired by an ecological approach and by meticulous attention to tending the vine, just as one would care for a precious garden. Almost all the viticultural and agricultural equipment had to be replaced in order to accomplish the transformation of the vineyard and return it to optimum quality. Already 7 hectares have profited from better canopy management and the enlargement of the foliage capacity.
All missing vine stocks have been replaced. Ploughing and working the soil have been reinstated. The advice of his consultancy team is vitally important, and helps him to make decisions, as is that of the local, official bodies. Tradition improved by modern, scientific knowledge is part of Alfredo Ruiz’ philosophy.
THE WINES
WHO ?
Gilles Pauquet and his associate, Stéphane Toutoundji, are indispensable pillars. In the cellars too everything needs to be done. Alfredo Ruiz “inherited” the 2005 vintage, but made the 2006.
WHERE ?
There was very little choice and the wine had to be made in a more traditional way, but it was well made. The cement fermentation vats will be retained, but the maturation now takes place in both French and American oak barrels over 12 months. Mendocino, Sylvain, Radoux, Demptos and Vicard supply the barrels for the moment. The future project for the vinification installations is grandiose, but that belongs to the future …
HOW ?
Alfredo Ruiz is following Gilles Pauquet’s advice to proceed only according to the spirit of the wine. The final aim is to make natural wine, of fine quality, true to its “terroir” and capable of fitting into the category of great Bordeaux. But this also will come in time …
PRESENTATION ?
The packaging has been updated, with an airy and modern design, respecting the original, traditional label of the château. However, the magnum bottles will have a collection of works of art as labels. Two have already been realised and three others are in the pipeline. The motivation is the connection between Mexico, his roots and the wine of his property, anchored in Bordeaux and in Europe. The 1997 label is by Bosco Sodi, the 1998 one is by Carlos Torres, another is by Agueda Losano and yet another by Max Mitau.
WHO ?
Gilles Pauquet and his associate, Stéphane Toutoundji, are indispensable pillars. In the cellars too everything needs to be done. Alfredo Ruiz “inherited” the 2005 vintage, but made the 2006.
WHERE ?
There was very little choice and the wine had to be made in a more traditional way, but it was well made. The cement fermentation vats will be retained, but the maturation now takes place in both French and American oak barrels over 12 months. Mendocino, Sylvain, Radoux, Demptos and Vicard supply the barrels for the moment. The future project for the vinification installations is grandiose, but that belongs to the future …
HOW ?
Alfredo Ruiz is following Gilles Pauquet’s advice to proceed only according to the spirit of the wine. The final aim is to make natural wine, of fine quality, true to its “terroir” and capable of fitting into the category of great Bordeaux. But this also will come in time …
PRESENTATION ?
The packaging has been updated, with an airy and modern design, respecting the original, traditional label of the château. However, the magnum bottles will have a collection of works of art as labels. Two have already been realised and three others are in the pipeline. The motivation is the connection between Mexico, his roots and the wine of his property, anchored in Bordeaux and in Europe. The 1997 label is by Bosco Sodi, the 1998 one is by Carlos Torres, another is by Agueda Losano and yet another by Max Mitau.
PROJECT ?
The creation of a fine vineyard, producing excellent Bordeaux wine, in the true tradition of some of the greatest wines in the world. The plan is to transform the architecture of the installations completely.
Château Fonchereau will eventually be a country estate, which will attract attention not only because of the precision and refinement of its wine, but also because of the quality of its lifestyle, its amenities and its facilities.
The creation of a fine vineyard, producing excellent Bordeaux wine, in the true tradition of some of the greatest wines in the world. The plan is to transform the architecture of the installations completely.
Château Fonchereau will eventually be a country estate, which will attract attention not only because of the precision and refinement of its wine, but also because of the quality of its lifestyle, its amenities and its facilities.
MARKETING SITUATION
For the moment, it is entirely through word of mouth. The wine has been a great success on the Mexican market, but the world is his oyster …
For the moment, it is entirely through word of mouth. The wine has been a great success on the Mexican market, but the world is his oyster …
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