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January - Wine of the Month : Caccia al Piano

By Petronella Salvi

Caccia Al Piano,1868, Ruit Hora 2004, Merlot (65%) Cabernet Sauvignon (25%) Syrah (10%)

COLOUR : Dark, deeply dense, purple garnet in heart, attractive garnet on rim. Deep ruby crimson reflections.
NOSE : Fresh, fruit and spice blend. Red berries, redcurrants, mulberry. Red stone fruit, ripe, rich plum and cherries. Hint of cinnamon and cacao, tones of cigar box and cedar wood. Bright fruit acidity. Fruity tannins present in background. On end of bouquet, delicately macerated red fruit aromas.
PALATE : Fresh, smoky and spicy. Excellent fruit acidity, smooth texture, but granular towards the end. Succulent fruit flavours, very firm structure. Tremendous tannic structure, long, fruited and very powerful but well restrained. Huge grip. Smoky, freshly grilled fruit notes on finish. Harmonious declaration of depth, power and delicacy. Ripe fruit to the end. Fine strain of pure austerity predicting potential to mature and mellow.

          
             THE LOCATION


WHERE ?
Caccia al Piano 1868, forms part of 20 hectares of vines, half way between Castagneto Carducci and Bolgheri, in the heart of this exceptional Tuscan denomination. Caccia al Piano is located on the roof of the world, with a magnificent view of the sea on one side and the almost virgin hills on the other.

WHO ?
Caccia al Piano belongs to the Berlucchi Group, producers of top quality Franciacorta sparkling wines. Arturo Ziliani is the œnologist and consultant, and his wife, Cristina Ziliani, is responsible for public as well as exterior relations. Their first vintage was the 2004, as the property was bought in November 2003. They saw an opportunity, but will need time to gain experience and fully express the potential of their acquisition.

WHY ?
In the 1950’s, a friend and colleague of Guido Berlucchi, Giorgio Lanciani guided the company in the mastery of stabilised sparkling wine. The team was completed with the arrival of the dynamic and enthuastic young oenologist Franco Ziliani.

HOW ?
Franco Ziliani aspired to make fine quality sparkling wine, until then only accessible to the privileged and the wealthy, available to be enjoyed by one and all. This demanded investment in human resources, as well as in quality land, the finest materials and modern facilities.

PHILOSOPHY ?
This is a natural outcome of the former. From the success achieved in sparkling wine, the same philosophy was applied to premium quality wine production, whilst aligning it to value for money.
However, at the same time, continuing to make typical wine, true to its origins, as witnessed by these two red wines from Bolgheri. The “Modus Operandi” of Arturo and Cristina Ziliani is the expression of their ideology of making “great wine for the people, and also exceptional wine for a fewpeople”. A clever move from a well established sparkling wine, to a young red wine still having to prove itself.


THE VINES

WHERE ?
The vines are beautifully situated, on a high plateau (at 80 metres above sea level), but not necessarily in exactly the finest position according to soil and “terroir”. This issue has been addressed from the very beginning, but results will take time to come about. The vines producing Caccia al Piano are situated in a private, protected area and hunting is prohibited.
Wild boar therefore roam unchecked and do considerable damage if unchecked by a programme of protection of the vines.Planting density: 9,000-10,000 vine stocks per hectare (75cm x120cm). Limited yield: 4,000-6,000 Kg of grapes per hectare, which is considered by the Zilianis as the optimal quantity for producing the perfect concentration and structure in their impressive wines.

WHAT ?
Grape varieties: present situation - Cabernet Sauvignon (29% of planted surface), Merlot (58%) and Syrah (3%) Cabernet Franc (10%). Different forms of pruning are used, bilateral Cordon Pruning with two spurs, or Single Cordon, or Head Pruning, depending grape variety. Head Pruning is best suited to Merlot, whilst the Syrah fares best with Single Guyot.
The soil is rich in gravel and lighter and the Merlot thrives in this, whilst the other grape varieties are is better suited on different soil compositions. The air is particularly pure with high daylight temperatures, but on the hill top the nights are considerably cooler. Important influence of the sea breezes.

HOW ?
Very selective pruning: 1 bunch per branch and 4 bunches per plant. A high risk factor is therefore involved. Green harvesting at the turning of the colour. No ploughing at present. No need to use herbicide as weeds dry out naturally.
Specific crops of greens and grasses planted between rows. 10 more hectares of vines have recently been planted. Everything remains to be tested, verified and then applied. The entire property is in a state of adjustment to find the very best answers to pursue optimum quality.


THE WINES

The 1868 attached to the name of the property refers to the date of publication of a famous poem on wine and women by Carducci. Ruit Hora means the rapid passage of time.

WHO ?
Since 2003, the experienced, Claudio Santini, a qualified agronomist, has been the quiet, but brilliant manager. The production follows the development of the property. 8 more hectares are envisaged. 5 permanent personnel members and 10 seasonal workers are trained to achieve the goal of superb quality wine.

WHERE ?
The picked grapes, subject to parcelar selection, before being transported down the short, but arduous slope to the cellars.

HOW ?
Vintaged by hand, 27-30 people. Selection on the vines, having been meticulously prepared throughout the vegative cycle, and only perfect bunches are allowed to come to maturity. Great difference between the optimum ripening times. Merlot end August/beginning September, the Syrah at the end of September and the Cabernet Sauvignon was picked around October 20th.
Cultured yeasts are used. No pre-fermentation maceration. Alcoholic fermentation, still separating the different grape varieties, in temperature controlled stainless steel vats, for 16- 18 days normally, but the Ruit Hora is sometimes macerated on the skins, after fermentation, exceptionally for up to 40 days.

Fermentation of Cabernet Sauvignon around 30-32°C for 12-14 hours, then down to 24°C. Merlot ferments at 28-30°C. Skin contact around 28 days, in 2004, but shorter in 2005. Depends on vintage. Pumping over and rack and return. Malolactic fermentation in 225 litres barrels, followed by 10-12 months of maturation in the temperature controlled cellar. Only new French oak is used.
Rackings as and when esteemed necessary. Barrels are toasted to different degrees, medium and slow toasting is preferred. A number of different coopers: Taransaud, Quintessence, Vicard, Seguin Moreau. A cleaning filtration before bottling. After bottling, wine is stored for 6-8 months to rest properly.

PRODUCTION ? 36 000 Bottles.

PROJECT ?
This fascinating, dynamic, young team, under the consulting guidance of the well known oenologist, Professor Leonardo Valenti (since 2005), is experimenting with various ideas and techniques in viti and in viniculture.
We had a fascinating barrel sample tasting in the cellar. The objective and the energy of Arturo and Cristina Zilianis and Claudio are directed at finding the best possible expression of their wine, and they remain open to information, ideas and the experience of others.


MARKET SITUATION

Caccia al Piano is not yet positioned in the USA because of the recent acquisition, 2003, of the property. Please feel free to visit www.berlucchi.com and to contact Silvana Martinelli at export@berlucchi.it

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