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Domaine du Grand Tinel : The union of two families

By Petronella Salvi

Historical and Vitivinicultural Background of Châteauneuf du Pape.A crossroad of time and generations. From Roman soldiers, to Roman citizens, to pilgrims and crusaders, to Templar’s and popes, to Kings and Huguenots, to villains, pilferers ad invaders, the land of Châteauneuf du Pape has been trodden by all their feet. They all left an imprint and an heritage, which like its geology, forged both man and soil.

This is also the tale of a family heritage, in communion with its “terroir” and the fruit of the vine, yesterday, today and tomorrow. Already, in 1770, François Establet owned a vineyard at Châteauneuf Calcenier (ancient word for sifted lime), before it became “de Pape”. In 1836, Alexis Establet bought more vineyards, as did his son Georges, in 1846. The family continued to expand its vineyards and, in 1906, Charles Establet traded in the various wines it produced. Likewise, in 1904, Lucien Jeune owned vines around Châteauneuf du Pape and, in the 1930’s, he became a wine transporter and also the mayor of the town. In the 1960’s, the marriage of Christiane Establet and Elie Jean-Pierre Jeune sealed the union of the two families.

   
        The climatic conditions in Châteauneuf du Pape are particularly marked by the capricious violence of the Mistral wind, even though the wine growers love it because it dries out moisture and avoids fungal infections, as well as assuring clear skies and sunshine approximately 200 days a year.


There are serious wind conditions, without any exaggeration, during 120 days of violent wind per year. The Mistral also guarantees lovely sunny weather when it is blowing, or should one say “raging”.
This allows the late ripening grape varieties to come to maturity correctly. But there is also the South Wind, which brings humidity to this scorched land and which blows for around 30 days of the year. Average rainfall is between 650-700mm. per year.The soil, or should one almost say, the pebbles and stones of Châteauneuf du Pape, consists of rolled, weathered pebbles of relatively important size, carried down over the ages by ferocious torrents from the Alps.
Rock fragments and deep lying calcareous soils are superposed to form the ideal terrain for the different grape varieties. A very high proportion of the subsoil is constituted by pebbles, imbedded in clay, of different compositions and colours, whilst the surface is totally, or very nearly, covered in smoothed, most attractive, rolled stones, some the size of a serious boxers’ fist !

These are ideal for ripening, since the pebbles and stones absorb heat during the day, and during the night reflect it back onto the hanging grapes. Together with the various other influences and ecosystems, which create microclimates, the soil and the climate form the complex concept called “terroir”.
Châteauneuf du Pape is a relatively small appellation, covering slightly more than 3,200 hectares. It was the first AOC in France, proclaimed in 1935, after the preparation and hard work of the jurist and proprietor, Baron Le Roy. Fortunately, the rules and regulation coherently favoured limited production, controlling strictly which land would have the right to the AOC.

This would be the terrain that had the inherent quality and conditions to produce quality grapes. Indubitably, Châteauneuf du Pape produces fine quality wine. These regulations, vigorously enforced, include the delimitation of land appropriate for the production of Châteauneuf du Pape, and its soil characteristics with the exclusion of any fertile soil.

Only specific grape varieties are allowed to be cultivated and the pruning methods are intentionally restrictive. Irrigation is forbidden, except under extraordinary drought conditions, and subject to derogation in order not to advance or over stimulate the ripening of the grapes.

At the same time, the minimum natural degree of alcohol is fixed at 12.5° and chaptilisation is only authorised when unfavourable climatic conditions prevail. Green pruning and eliminating rotten grapes are obligatory, whilst mechanical harvesting is forbidden. Yield is limited to 35 hectolitres per hectare.

Grapes from vines of less than 4 years old are not allowed in AOC wine. Today, the 3,250 hectares of vineyards belong to 369 viticultural estates.

In 1972, Domaine du Grand Tinel - derivative of Latin “tina” or cask - was created, composed of all the necessary buildings and facilities to make wine, to mature wine and to run a company, as well as offices and a tasting cellar. The estate covers 56 hectares in Châteauneuf du Pape for red wine, 3 for white wine and also 18 hectares in the Côtes du Rhône. Since 2005, this family property has been run by the children of Christiane and Elie Jeune - Béatrice, Isabelle and Christophe - thus continuing in the family tradition.
In parallel, the family also possesses another estate in Châteauneuf du Pape, namely Domaine de Saint-Paul, with Clos Saint-Paul as its trademark, owning 14 hectares of Châteauneuf du Pape vines with an average age of 45 years.
Domaine du Grand Tinel, situated in several distinct parcels, to the South, Southeast, and in majority, the north of Châteauneuf du Pape, in the area of Gardiole, is planted with Grenache Noir (83%), Syrah (12%), Mourvèdre (2%), Counoise (2%) and Cinsault (1%), with an average age of 40 years. In the Côtes du Rhône vineyards, around Courthezon and Châteauneuf de Gadagne, facing South, Grenache Noir (98%) and Carignan (2%) make up the 18 hectares.

Domaine de Saint-Paul became the property of Charles Establet, in 1958. In 1970, Christiane Jeune, his daughter and her husband, Pierre Elie Jeune, bought it in turn and enlarged the estate. A storage cellar, and a vinification cellar with a bottling line, were constructed. In 2004, their children, Christophe and Isabelle, took over the management and added wooden vinification vats and a maturation cellar with oak vats and barrels. Béatrice is responsible for the office and administrative management. The vineyards cover 14 hectares, in 6 specific parcels, according to their geographical position. Four around the domain south of Châteauneuf du Pape, the rest to the southeast of the town, at Pied Redon and La Combe, around outcrops of oak. The grape varieties are as follows: Grenache Noir (84%), Syrah (13%), Cinsault (1%), Muscardin (1%) and others (1%).

Both properties have particularly stony soil on high lying land, the rest being calcareous clay and alluvial soil. Furthermore there is an abundance of large, rolled stones. Environmentally respectful viticultural practices, with minimum intervention, in order to express the potential of the “terroir” as loyally as possible.
Several ploughings take place, no chemical fertiliser, but only animal manure or organic compost is used. No herbicides at all. Overall production varies between 25-35hectolitres per hectare and the average age of the vines is 35 years. Pruning is according to each particular grape variety : Head Pruning, Double Cordon Royat or Single Guyot is practised and each variety is pruned by the method that is best adapted to its needs and personality. The land is worked and ploughed according to the seasons.
Debudding is done during spring. The young vines are green harvested. All vines are carefully scrutinized and any less healthy bunches are removed to ensure quality and balanced yield. Trimming, either by hand or mechanically, to avoid excessive growth and to limit wind damage. Philippe Gambies is the consultant œnologist.


DOMAINE DE GRAND TINEL

The soil in the northernmost vineyards of the estate is sandy and stony, calcareous clay, whilst in the south, it is stony, calcareous clay.

Depending upon the soil, grassing is practised to restrain the vigour of the vines, and in some places to combat erosion. 8 people work in the vineyards. The density previously was around 1,80 or 1,70 metres square, which meant between 3,000-3,500 vine stocks per hectare. At present, vines are planted at 2,50 metres square, and therefore with a greater surface area of foliage.

Vintage by hand and by a Spanish and a local team. In 2001, the grapes destined for the Domaine du Grand Tinel, Alexis Establet, were picked from mid September, in a 4 ½ hectares parcel of 99 year old vines, situated at “La Gardiole”. This vineyard has 95% Grenache Noir vines with a small portion of other grape varieties planted amongst them. The quantity produced hovers around 15-25 hectolitres per hectare.

This wine is only made in exceptional years and matured in French oak barrels. Alexis Establet is a wine to lay down in order to appreciate the depths and the complexity of the Grenache. It is a wine of “terroir”, with lovely animal notes, not over wooded, but with tannins proving their finesse.
It is best enjoyed when around 10 years old, but the 2001 Alexis Establet is now beginning to show very well.
As for all the grapes of Domaine du Grand Tinel, a first sorting of the grapes took place in the vineyards, before being put into 20 Kg basins, with a final sorting on tables in the cellar. Grapes completely destalked and then crushed.
The result achieved from crushing the grapes was very encouraging. Grapes then transferred into cement or stainless steel fermentation vats of 80-100 hectolitres. The fermentation started spontaneously. Temperature controlled fermentation, followed by relatively long post fermentation maceration, varying from 3 to 4 weeks. The Malolactic fermentation takes place in cement vats before the wine is transferred to either large, traditional oak vats or others of new oak. Blending takes place in spring, in the cement vats, and the wine is racked before returning to wooden vats and barrels. Here the wine gently resides for one or two years, depending upon the vintage. The wine is usually racked once again, fined and then only lightly filtered before being bottled at the estate, on its own bottling line. The bottles are rested for 3-6 months before shipment.

Domaine du Grand Tinel has been available on the American market for the last 30 years, particularly in restaurants, but also in certain wine shops. The two properties are not necessarily imported by the same companies.


DOMAINE DE SAINT-PAUL

Manual harvesting with a group of Andalusians forming the annual core of the pickers. Sorting takes place in the vineyard. Grapes picked into 20 litres buckets and a second sorting then takes place on the tractor trailer.

Vinification in the estate’s own cellars with its own personnel. The crop is totally destalked (as of 2007 there will be a crusher as well) and placed in stainless steel fermentation vats, between 100-150hectolitres in size.The grapes destined for Domaine de Saint Paul, Cuvée Jumille 2003 (Red) were picked on September 3rd, at full maturity, from 1 hectare of vines, in the very stony “Pierredon” parcel.

They consists of 60% Grenache Noir (vines of 75 years old) and 40% Syrah (age of vines on average over 45 years old). Quantity : 25 hectolitres. Cellar designed in order to take advantage of movement by gravity. The juice was vinified in 50 hectolitres, truncated, oak vats before spending time in vat with skin contact for 3-4 weeks. Pumping over, once or twice a day. Punching down of the cap and rack and return, 3 or 4 times during fermentation.
Maximum fermentation temperature 28°C. The wine is very delicately pressed in a horizontal, pneumatic press, keeping the free run juice and the gentle press wine separate. Malolactic fermentation in vat, which took until January to finish. The wine was then racked back into the truncated vats and left to rest for 3 weeks, with regular tasting to evaluate its development.

60% of the wine destined for the Cuvée Jumille was matured in epoxy-lined as well as stainless steel vats, whilst 40% was transferred to traditional oak casks, the “demi muids”, for 11 months. Four rackings during the year. The wine was bottled, in November 2004, by a contracted bottling company, on the premises of the estate. Only 5,000 bottles were produced.
The philosophy behind the production of the Cuvée Jumille, destined for the export market, and more specifically restaurants and wine shops, is to achieve extraction of maximum fruit, without too much power, remaining elegant and a wine that gives pleasure.
It is a wine that will continue to mature and to improve over the next 6 – 12 years. Excellent accompaniment to regional dishes, veal, sausages and cheese.
Please feel free to contact Mrs. Béatrice Audu-Jeune for any commercial questions at beatrice@domainegrandtinel.com Visit www.domainegrandtinel.com as well as www.domainesaintpaul.com


TASTING NOTES

2001 ALEXIS ESTABLET
Domaine du Grand Tinel, AOC Châteauneuf du Pape
Colour : Plum, ruby crimson, very attractive ruby crimson reflections. Rim showing lighter shades of crimson, russet edge.
Nose : Black cherry notes on attack. Tones of musk and Garrigue with smoky, herbal aromas. Spicy, lightly curry fragrance. Delicate animal notes present. The whole nicely mellowed, and improves with aeration and decanting.
Palate : Mirror image of bouquet on attack. Hints of musk and Garrigue with herbal, smoky notes. Decided spicy and animal flavours. Delicate touch of tar. Lingering tobacco fragrance. Texture beginning to dry slightly at the end of the palate. On the after taste, lovely notes of smoky, dried cherry and herbs. Leather notes returning. Finish fresh. This is a mature wine and will be a fine accompaniment to delicate game dishes and fine cheese.

2003 ALEXIS ESTABLET
Domaine du Grand Tinel, AOC Châteauneuf du Pape
Colour : Very bright, attractive, deep ruby with delicate garnet heart. Brilliant red ruby reflections.
Nose : Red and black fruit aromas. Relatively subdued on the attack, but generously powerful once aerated.
Palate : Deep, rich, but rather warm, macerated fruit flavours. Quite high alcoholic finish, but plenty of fruit present, which tones this down. Very extracted, very full bodied, heavy weight wine. The wine is very young and needs time to mellow. Typical of very concentrated, very hot years. This wine will give those looking for powerfully expressed wine great pleasure.

2003 CUVÉE JUMILLE
Domaine de Saint Paul, AOC Châteauneuf du Pape
Colour : Bright, garnet, deep, purple ruby reflections. Garnet rim, very light beginning of russet crimson notes right on the edge.
Nose : Delicious notes of spice and herbs. Cloves and Garrigue intermingle. Delicate dried fig, prunes and cherry tones. Touch of leather, yet remnants of deeply, ripe, black berries. Attractive bouquet, but beginning to show signs of evolution.
Palate : Relatively light on attack with fresh tones. Tobacco and leather appears. Fine tannic structure, voluptuous, warm texture. Spicy and delectable, but deep, black chocolate with a hint of bitterness on finish. Wine in process of evolution, but excellent with traditional French, country dishes such as dried sausages, slow cooked meat and vegetable stews and particularly with game served with stewed dried fruit.

2004 DOMAINE DE SAINT PAUL
AOC Châteauneuf du Pape
Colour : Deep, bright and vivid. Velvety, purple garnet in the heart. Ruby purple edge.
Nose : Young and vigorous attack. Plenty of youthful fruit aromas, deep, dark black fruit notes of black cherry, blackberries. Delicate hint of tar. Tones of torrefaction. Generous proportions with robust expression. Promises well.
Palate : Warm, ripe and juicy fruit. Lively and fresh. Clean acidity and good length. Well balanced, fruity and succulent wine. Texture still slightly granular, but mouth feel is smoothing nicely. Long, black fruit flavours. Torrefaction and tar notes. Deep, refreshing concentration with peppery tones at end. Easy to drink. Finish very attractive and juicy to the end

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