Esteeming, totally conversely, the soil to be ideally suited for the vine, Henri Plantin took the decision to plant vines on this high plateau, the highest point in what was to become the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation.

The crisis had arrived and woodlands had no value. Further parcels of woodland were acquired. He also bought remnants from World War One, from the US Army, in the shape of two steam earthmoving machines. He then proceeded to clear some of these woodlands with the help of Harki labourers. This immense and awesome task took from 1923 to the early 1950’s!


Yet it formed the very foundation of the enlargement of the property, over time, and parcel by parcel, stone by stone, to its present 162 hectares, with 100 hectares under vines.The Romans already grew vines on the site in the distant past, and the name of the property is derived from a circular hillock, approximately 130 metres above sea level, covered in pine trees, called in those days, “Montum Redondum”. Later, in 1334, it became “Mourredon” and today “Mont Redon”.
We can only admire the fact that, 2,000 years ago, Man already recognised the finest land for cultivation and set about harnessing it. The land of Mont-Redon has a long illustrious history spanning the gap between the Romans and the Middle Ages.
At some point, during the 17th Century, it became the property of the church, but then reverted to noble hands before the French Revolution, only to be ruined during it and was divided up between the children of the impoverished Claire Mathieu-Astier in the 19th Century.

Henri Plantin was the grandfather of the generation holding the reins at present. At his death the property passed into the hands of his two daughters. Simone Abeille was the mother of Jean, Henri & François Abeille. Henri is responsible for the fertilizer company and François worked full time at Château Mont- Redon until a terrible accident made it impossible for him to remain totally active. Jean remains fully active in the running and the management of the property.
Magalie Fabre was the mother of Didier and Henri. Henri was responsible for the viticulture at the property in the Côtes du Rhône and Lirac, but suffered 3 serious back injuries, and he therefore had to discontinue his activity. Didier is still fully occupied with the running and the management of the estate.
Château Mont-Redon belongs to all members of this third generation, who continue, each in his own function and position, to work in unison to continue the growth, the improvement and the securing of the future of the family estate.

A fourth generation stands ready to take over when the time comes. Jean Abeille has three sons. Patrick, the youngest, who is still finishing his business training at an “Ecole de Commerce”. Jérôme, who has taking a diploma in viticulture and is now at an “Ecole Supérieure de Commerce”, and Yann, the eldest, who studied œnology at Montpellier, then completed hands-on training courses at properties in Bordeaux, Australia and New Zealand. He is now in Miami, with the property’s agents, for further training and more experience, before heading for the vineyards of Chile and Argentina.

Didier Fabre has two children.
The younger, Pierre, after his diploma in viticulture, studied agricultural engineering and agronomy, followed by a degree in oenology. He then left to acquire experience at Phelps, in Napa, California. Returning to France he then acquired hands-on training with Denis Dubourdieu, oenologist, professor and white wine specialist in Bordeaux. He is now home and has been working at Château Mont-Redon for the last three years.
The elder, Christine, completed a commercial degree and “Master”, specialising in Agricultural, Primary and Secondary Food Products, followed by an in-house training course at Château Mont-Redon, before also leaving to acquire experience in her field in the U S A.

Henri Plantin, and Baron Le Roy, viewed as the father of the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation of origin, were great friends. Together they realised the importance of helping the vine growers and wine makers of the area to overcome the paralysing crisis.
Also, to avoid fraud that was rampant and to introduce strict rules to ensure quality and respect for the wine of Châteauneuf du Pape. They recognised that fine quality, in limited quantities, formed the only viable basis for a profitable future. We have touched upon the regulations of the AOC Châteauneuf du Pape in other articles in this Edition of TASTED - “Union of a Family: Domaine du Grand Tinel and Domaine de Saint-Paul” - as well as in the “Wine of the Month, Château de la Gardine”.

In his own right, Henri Plantin became an expert in agronomy. His keen eye spotted the best places to prepare the soil for planting the vine, in spite of almost insurmountable obstacles. He was considered a lunatic for planting on such desolate landscapes, exposed to all the elements.
However, he was a forward thinking businessman and had already started exporting the wines from Château Mont-Redon to the U S A, in 1945. The first shipment was destined for a restaurant owned by a restaurateur, who was originally from Avignon.

The heritage of this exceptional family is not only the land and the vineyards that they inherited, but is also a state of mind, which has remained the rudder by which the family, its properties and its philosophy is steered. Everything, on this vast, extended property, was built and created by the family.
Thoroughness every step of the way, from decisions relating to the land, the vines, the wines and the marketing. The portrayal of their superb “terroir” in deep flavoured, intensely fruited, balanced wine, which can either be enjoyed when relatively young, or given its excellent longevity possibilities, age graciously into magnificent mature wine, depending upon the vintage.
The fundamental philosophy of Jean Abeille and Didier Fabre and of Château Mont-Redon is to safeguard their heritage, to assure the future for generations to come, to replenish the soil that supports them and to produce excellent wine at a reasonable price, thus creating loyal and contented agents and customers. All this whilst remaining true to their “terroir” and respecting its integrity.

Château Mont-Redon is an enormous property, forged out of courage, hard work, a team spirit and a firm belief in a positive future. It covers 162 hectares, of which 100 hectares are in production, in Châteauneuf du Pape. In the Côtes du Rhône, since the 1980’s, 35 hectares, with 27 in production, and, 23 hectares in Lirac with 18 in production.
The average annual production is 340,000-360,000 bottles of Châteauneuf du Pape red, and 60,000-80,000 white, 140,000-160,000 bottles of Côtes du Rhône red , 20,000 white and 8,000 bottles of rosé, whilst Lirac produces 40,000 bottles of red wine, 10,000 bottles of white and 6,000 bottles of rosé.

Average production per hectare over the last decade, but depending on the vintage and meteorological conditions, is 30 hectolitres per hectare in Châteauneuf du Pape and 42-46 in the Côtes du Rhône. The family also owns 94 hectares of vineyard in the commune of Cannet des Maures, near Saint Tropez. Château Rio-Tord consists of 50 hectares of vines covering two appellations: 38 hectares in the Côtes de Provence, producing l’Air du Rossignol, which is a familiar name to the American consumer, and another adjoining 12 hectares making Vin du Pays des Maures.

The soil is composite, of alpine diluvium and Miocene origin, and varied over this vast an area, as one would expect, forming the highest point in the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation. However, one tremendous advantage is its resistance to drought, which in this hot and arid area makes the survival of the vine and the production of quality wine possible.
The prime vineyard is in one continuous block of 60 hectares on the plateau. The soil is made up of 2 metres deep, beautifully hued, relatively large, rolled stones over red clay, followed by 20cm of sand.

Then a layer of 20cm of Urgonian calcareous, limestone pebbles, formed 115 million years ago by plant and animal sedimentation on the ocean bed that covered this part of France at that time. Here the roots have to dig deep to reach a source of water. The average age of vines in this vineyard is 45-59 years, but young plants are replacing those no longer producing adequately.
Green harvesting of younger vines is a necessity. All the wine from the estate is at present vinified at Château Mont-Redon. This high plateau is the soil of predilection of Grenache and Syrah, with some Mourvèdre. It is a veritable natural hot house, with the stones and pebbles absorbing the heat of the sun during the day, and reflecting this onto the grapes during the cooler nights. The warm Mistral wind plays a major role in ripening the grapes, but also in keeping them in prime sanitary condition, drying up any moisture in its path.

At the foot of the plateau, with its sandier soil, the dense Mourvèdre and the Cinsault excel, with its fine acidity balance, drinking in the richness and its aromatic characteristics from its fresher, cooler “terroir”.
The white grape varieties are planted on the large pebbled, limestone slopes of the plateau. The Grenache Blanc lends body, colour and strength to the wine. The Clairette gives finesse and aroma. The Bourboulenc adds acidity and brilliancy. The Roussanne combines body, structure and aroma and the Picpoul completes the wine with its volume, acidity and fresh aromas. The art of the wine maker is to balance these elements into a cohesive, attractive, satisfying wine.

One could say that, at Château Mont-Redon, the Grenache, the Syrah and the Mourvèdre form the structural backbone of the wine. The Syrah and the Grenache provide the colour and the tannins. The Cinsault, and the balancing Muscadin, Counoise and Vaccarese, lend aromatic expression to the wine.
However, it is the final blending of all these characteristics, in different percentages every year, depending on the microclimate, the weather and other “terroir” conditions that create the complexity, the depth and the charm of this well structured and quite tannic wine, when still in its infancy. Once it has had time to develop and mellow, all its finer points of finesse, forest floor aromas and depth of flavour, which afford so much pleasure, will evolve and manifest themselves.

Viticultural management depends on the specific conditions in a particular vineyard and also upon the climatic conditions of the year. Pruning is adapted to suit the grape variety, and all thirteen permissible ones are used.
For example, Head Pruning (Gobelet) is mainly used for the Grenache (65% of the vines planted at Château Mont-Redon) and Mourvèdre (5%). Cordon Royat pruning is used for the white grape varieties, such as Grenache Blanc (making up 40% of the planted white vines), Bourboulenc (25%), Clairette (20%), Roussanne (10%) and Picpoul (5%) as well as the red varieties of Syrah (15% of the cultivated red grapes) and Cinsault (10%).

The cornerstone of a quality crop is the way that the vine is pruned and trained. The vineyard is continuously under surveillance, since it is impossible to produce good wine without excellent quality, ripe and healthy grapes.
Some grape varieties, like the Grenache and the Mourvèdre, fare better on high lying ground, where they produce structured, full bodied, powerful and generous wines. The more aromatic varieties, such as the Cinsault and Syrah, are better in relatively cooler conditions, on the pebbly slopes, which ensure their fresh and fruity characteristics. Not neglecting the influence of the 5% of Counoise, Muscardin and Vaccarèse planted in these vineyards.

Grassing of alternate rows, depending upon soil composition. Minimum intervention, environmentally friendly viticulture, with the emphasis on the monitoring of precursors of pests and illnesses. Thus prevention rather than cure, as far as possible.
Château Mont-Redon has its own meteorological station, which helps in the prediction of direct risks related to inclement weather conditions. This has considerably reduced the number of treatments required, which is an economical bonus, but above all an environmental victory.

The soil is given the classical four annual ploughings, where the terrain allows, and sexual confusion is practised, but the results are limited. Irrigation is exceptionally practiced in accordance with the appellation rules, particularly on rocky, stony soil over limestone and clay of limited depth, with the almost impenetrable rock formation at a depth of only 50cm. Very restricted amounts of water to encourage the roots to delve deeper and to find fissures in the rock in order to reach moisture.
Everything is done to keep hygrometric stress at a supportable level. Fortunately, the surrounding woodlands, and the microclimatic conditions they create, help enormously.

Phenolic ripeness of the grapes is very closely monitored and confirmed by both tasting and laboratory testing. Château Mont-Redon has a specialised analysis laboratory, which is essential during the vintage in order to have results of the various tests rapidly to be able to react accordingly. Every year a young, freshly qualified œnologist is taken on as trainee as part of the preparation of his or her thesis, which offers the property the opportunity of a person with the latest techniques and the most recent developments at his or her fingertips, whilst at the same time remaining in touch with the top œnological training programmes.
For the remainder of the year, an outside œnological laboratory is used. Because of the size of the property, not all the grapes are brought in at the same time and material has been duplicated to cope with those occasions when the grapes from several parcels arrive simultaneously. Two crusher destemmers as well as two horizontal presses.

Harvesting, by hand, into small skips, and rapid transfer to the cellars, built to respect gravity and thus protecting the grapes from needless pumping. Grapes are gently tipped onto a sorting table and then transferred to the crusher destemmer before passing into the fermentation vats.
As far as the red wine is concerned, the grapes are carefully destalked to avoid any tannin, with the exception of the ripe tannins of the skins and the pips. Temperature controlled, stainless steel tanks are used for the low temperature fermentation.

The red wine ferments at around 27-28°C, with a peak at 32°C during the alcoholic fermentation itself. The vats are equipped with a punching down system to improve the immersion of the cap, but great care is taken not to exaggerate its use. Punching down is most important at the beginning of fermentation, then twice during active fermentation and once only at the end of the process.
No rack and return takes place. Post fermentation maceration takes around two weeks in thermally inert cement vats, ideal for natural clarification of the new wine. The juice, and then the wine, is tasted regularly to follow evolution and to run off at the perfect moment of extraction, in order for it to remain positive. Malolactic fermentation before the wine is racked into Burgundian 228 litres barrels or into vat.

The white grapes ripen at different times and are vintaged when at optimum maturity. Usually the Grenache Blanc and the Roussanne mature first, then the Clairette and the Picpoul, and lastly the Bourboulenc. The separated white grapes are directly pressed and then cold settled for around 30 hours at 12°C, in temperature controlled, stainless steel tanks. Fermentation starts gently, around 14-15°C, with 18°C at the end of fermentation, lasting about 3 weeks. Some skin contact for the Roussanne and the Clairette.

No malolactic fermentation in order to retain the freshness and crispness. The wine is blended, lightly filtered and bottled, in March-April following the vintage. At the present moment only Lirac white wine is vinified in wood.
Château Mont-Redon white wine is characterised by its depth of ripe fruit flavours, its elegant florality and the perfect balance between richness and fruit acidity. A wine that bears witness to its origin, but which travels well, and gives pleasure to many a palate far away form its beloved “terroir”.

The granite maturation cellars are buried underground to remain at a constant temperature of 14-16°C. Château Mont-Redon does not produce any special “cuvée”. The use of oak is very meticulously controlled. The role of maturing in wood is viewed by the family as essential to enhance the finesse of the red wine and to provide the opportunity for the different characteristics of each one of the grape varieties to mellow and to ensure prolonged enjoyment of the fruit of all the labours of man and his land.
Slow maturing, in an oak milieu, is very beneficial for the wine, but in the correct proportion! The wine from Lirac remains in wood, on average, for 9-11 months, whilst the Châteauneuf du Pape spends 10-14 months in barrel.

Around half of the wine spends time in oak; the rest is matured in vat. Obviously this depends on the vintage and on the wine itself.

80% of all oak is from French coopers, usually medium plus toasting, with notes rather of toasted fragrances than of vanilla. Some barrels from Seguin Moreau and some from Demptos, but all of French oak from the Centre of France. New oak makes up 20% of the barrels used, the rest one, or two, or three or even four wine barrels.

Egg white fining takes place in tall, narrow, stainless steel tanks and then the wine is racked. Each grape variety matures separately and, when the time comes, the wine is blended in 500 hectolitres vats, where it remains peacefully for 3-4 months before bottling. All corks are soaked before use and scrupulously examined for any discrepancies.
They are returned to the manufacturer if the quality is not up to the standard of the property’s wine. Château Mont-Redon has its own bottling line and all bottles are rested for 6 months after bottling in the cool, underground cellar, stacked in metal palettes, before being prepared for shipment.

The ongoing maintenance of the vineyards is a never-ending occupation. Château Mont-Redon envisages building a new cellar complex in the near future, which will respond better to their present objectives and the expansion of their vineyards. This project will be painstakingly planned and executed to further enhance the quality and the reputation of its wine and its service to its clients.
A highly sophisticated and effective effluent and a totally mechanised purification plant have been installed. All phyto sanitary products are treated, all water is collected, and even the mud is treated by reeds. Nothing is ejected into nature.
All carton and plastic materials are sorted and recycled. This entire system of environmental care has cost a considerable sum of money to install and to run, but it is seen by the family as a long term investment in the future.

Over the last decade, Château Mont-Redon has insisted on a policy of traceability, throughout each and every stage of the transformation of grapes to wine, to its bottling, labelling and packaging, before distribution. Wine is a hygienic and healthy drink, when consumed in moderation, but consumers, like producers and distributors, wish to see quantifiable evidence that optimum care has been taken in the preparation of their favourite wine.

From products used in vineyard treatments, to the cleaning materials used in the cellars, to the maintenance of wooden vats and barrels, to the immaculate sterilisation of bottles and bottling equipment, to the elimination of shards of glass in bottles, both before and during bottling, etc. This implies training the personnel (Château Mont-Redon employs a personnel of 38 throughout the year, but this grows to 100 during the harvest.) as well as organising the work load of each individual.
The entire work place, incorporating the vineyards, the garages for viticultural material and equipment, the cellars, the bottling line, the storage and the packing facilities, etc. had to be studied, analyzed, reorganised and adapted in such a way as to make the project feasible and coherent, without losing productivity, job satisfaction or the quality of the wine. An analysis system of danger and critical points has been elaborated and is regularly controlled.

When a bottle of wine leaves the property, the family is sure that it is in perfect condition for safe and satisfactory consumption. However, this is a costly and complicated process, which is constantly revised and updated. The ultimate aim is consumer satisfaction, which in return brings pride and pleasure to Château Mont-Redon and its close knit families - Abeille and Fabre.
Export accounts for 50% of the sales. Marketing in the U S A has been in the excellent, professional hands of Kobrand Corporation for the last 35 years. Château Mont-Redon, together with Jean Abeille and Didier Fabre, believe in choosing importers all over the world very cautiously and who profess the same basic philosophy in life and business as their own, whilst cultivating long term relationships built on mutual trust and respect.
This is the case with Kobrand, who has the exclusivity for their wine in the United States. Please visit www.chateau.mont-redon.com as well as www.kobrandwine.com


TASTING NOTES
2005 Château Mont-Redon, AOC Châteauneuf du Pape
Colour : Fine aspect, fresh, clean, bright, vivid ruby, with a hint of purple on the edge and deeper crimson in the heart. Brilliant, ruby crimson reflections. Quite dense at this young stage.
Nose : Reserved attack at present. Nuances of red fruit, a touch of minerality, flinty notes. A rich and ripe, very balanced, attractive bouquet.
Palate : Lovely, deep, black fruit, black cherry, blackcurrant. Hint of florality. Delicate notes of pepper against a backdrop of spice. Supple flavours, fine acidity keeping wine fresh and quite vibrant, tannins powerful, but very well fleshed, fruit driven and ripe. Well balanced.

Lovely, powerful wine, but already showing elegance and harmony. At the moment the wine is young with intense fruit and a very firm tannic structure, showing complexity. However, the wine is generous and rich enough with ripe enough fruit for the tannins to mellow perfectly into the unity of the wine, given the necessary time to continue its maturation. Indeed, this wine will mature beautifully. Very well made wine from a sumptuous vintage. Procure some, if you have not already done so, and enough to keep as it is already very seductive !

2003 Château Mont-Redon, AOC Châteauneuf du Pape
Colour : Bright, deep, dark garnet. Deep, ruby garnet reflections.
Nose : Very spicy, warm stone, minerality bouquet. Smoky notes, deep, dark, ripe, rich fruit. Black fruit – blackcurrants, prunes, ripe figs, black mulberry. Generous, powerful, but subtle and restrained. Well orchestrated. Concentrated aromatic expression, but lovely control.
Palate : Powerful, generous attack. Deeply ripe fruit with deep spice and bitter chocolate flavours. Lovely, still granular texture and firm structure. Fine strain of acidity, balancing the amplitude, voluptuousness and richness into a complete, quite refined whole. Tannins are quite powerful, but already integrating and surrounded by a supportive body of fruit. Finish with fruit and cacao flavours, hint of cigar box, a trace of “Garrigue”. Lingering fragrance on palate. By no means heavy. Harmonious, attractive wine.

2005 Château Mont-Redon, AOC Lirac
Vineyard planted with 60% Grenache Blanc and 40% Clairette
Colour : Pale, yellow, brilliant and shiny aspect. Clean and fresh and attractive to look at.
Nose : Lovely mineral attack. Almond blossom, bees wax, white flowers. Delicately, rich fruit notes – pear, just ripe quince, white peach. Fresh fruit acidity. Lingering fragrance.
Palate : Rich, ripe, long, fragrant attack. Very delicate, yellow fruit, peach and plum. Fine acidity, keeping the balance and providing energy to the wine. Very attractive minerality which lingers throughout. Very crisp and clean mouthfeel. Hint of grilled almonds, texture a touch granular at present. Very well controlled, hint of tannins at the end. Ripe, juicy fruit flavours giving continued freshness. A complete, complex wine. Lovely, fresh wine at present, but with the potential for maturing and evolving into richer depths, thanks to the tannic structure and fruit richness.

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