September - Wine of the Month : Domaine Jacques Thévenot & Fils

By Petronella Salvi

A very exceptional, small and dedicated Burgundy grower

                  In the challenging Burgundian scene, a visit to the domain of Thevenot is a discovery journey into authenticity, dedication and passion, handed down from generation to generation. Initially, the welcome by Jacques Thevenot and his two sons in the sun drenched courtyard, bustling with viticultural activities, appears slightly reserved.

 

But rapidly the Thevenot family transmits their attachment to their land and their heritage, with genuine and heartfelt humility with a seemingly uncommunicative greeting and a firm handshake.

 

This is but the protective wall behind which hides the passion, the hard work, the courage and the vision of this family. Felix works with his father in the vineyards and in the cellars, and Maxime is at present studying commerce and will in future look after the marketing.

Jacques Thevenot believes resolutely “in the transmission of the culture of wine growing, wine making and the love of wine from generation to generation”. He makes wine to be enjoyed, at table, with fine fare. “My wine has to reflect the fruit of the vine in a refined and pleasurable fashion and for many years”, he states earnestly.

 

TASTING NOTES

Domaine Jacques Thevenot & Fils, established in Meursault, Côtes-de-Beaune
2004 MEURSAULT
A blend of two parcels of Meursault
COLOR : Bright, very pale, yellow gold, brilliant delicate, gold reflections.
NOSE : Ripe, dense and crisp fruit aromas. Delicate, rich, white flowers and yellow peach. Rich and ample bouquet. Attractive freshness in spite of the hint of wood. Serious wine.
PALATE : Fruit attack, fine freshness in the mouth. Smooth and long. Flavours grow and remain vigorous. Tonic fruit notes. Hint of lemon. Overall generous and round. Well managed wood. Still very young.

2004 PULIGNY FOLATIÈRES
2 year old barrels used
COLOR : Pale gold with brilliant reflections.
NOSE : Pure fruit. Rich and beautifully ripe. Round and generous, yet lovely austerity creating fine balance. Excellent, natural, fruit expression. Delicate notes of almonds and honey. Bouquet of finesse.
PALATE : Profound fragrance. Rich, generous, lingering flavours. Long, elegant expression on the palate. Once again, the excellent austerity combined with pure, ripe fruit. Wine of finesse and well worthwhile waiting for patiently !

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                Burgundy is complex and complicated, like its growers and its wine. The Thevenot family possesses and cultivates a patch-work quilt of vines, some of which were acquired by his grandfather, thers by his father and others he bought together with his father, in several appellations : Bourgogne (both Blanc and Rouge)[1 ha], Meursault (both Blanc and Rouge) [1/2 ha of each], Meursault Charmes [1/4 ha], Meursault Les Poruzots, Pommard [1/2 ha], Puligny-Montrachet [1 1⁄2 ha], Puligny-Montrachet Les Charmes, Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières [1/4 ha], Volnay Santenots[1/2 ha] – total surface area cultivated 5 1⁄2 hectares.

 

Talk turns rapidly to Nature and her capriciousness, in 2003 they were frosted, hailed and had the canicular summer to cope with, followed by a plethoric, over generous 2004. The changing seasons and the duty to produce only the best wine from every vine stock has forged a philosophy of “accompanying Nature, not subjugating or to stifling it.” Attention to the tiniest detail, both in the vines and in the cellars, born form experience and sharp, astute observation, is the driving force behind the Thevenot family.

On the hillside slopes the soil is calcareous over a bed of hard rock interspersed with fossilized soil. Whereas the lower lying vineyards stand on clay soil. The best results are obtained by having vines in both areas in order to enhance the blends with more expression and depth.

The vines are tended one by one, depending upon their individual situation, temperament and requirements. “One has to create the potential for each vine stock to successfully carry more quality grapes to optimum maturity”.

The family always adhered to the policy of environmentally friendly, minimum intervention agriculture, long before it became fashionable. The vines and the soil are only treated when necessary. Pruning is Guyot Simple and the age of the vines varies from 20 – 70 years old. Jacques Thevenot is in close communion with his vines and senses their difficulties before anything becomes critical.
The vines are carefully cleaned and the micro environment of each parcel meticulously stimulated to prevent unnecessary stress and any attack by disease or rot. All tasks are done as and when needed. “One has to talk to and to feel one’s vines”, he insists. The vintage is brought in by hand, by a small group of around 20 people of experience, and the grapes are sorted on the spot.

 

The cellars, underneath the family home, are not air conditioned, but are naturally cool and at a stable temperature all year round.

The Chardonnay is immediately, gently pressed and then the juice is cold settled for 24 hours before being put into oak barrels for fermentation. All this depends upon the vintage and the quality of juice in hand. It is crucial NOT to overwhelm the fruit with too much oak. In his view, new barrels tend to make wine that evolves more rapidly than a combination of used and new ones.

The family continues to use Tonnellerie Damy. The oak comes from the Allier (approx. 2/3) and the Vosges (approx. 1 /3), which mellows the blend from the onset, and this, has been so for the last decade.
New oak is only used to replace old barrels, except in exceptional circumstances. Chaptilisation also takes place only when needed (not at all in 2004). No stirring of the lees and a racking takes place after the unhurried malolactic fermentation and a short period of rest on the resulting lees.

This is a very delicate moment and the evolution is strictly surveyed and controlled. Great care is taken not to allow the wine to take on a buttery character. Afterwards, further rackings are only performed if required. A light Bentonite fining and a light filtration for the white. The red is neither fined nor filtered. Jacques Thevenot bottles his own wine.

Nothing is done to brutalize the wine and the natural fruit aromas and flavours, which the family strive for, are achieved, thanks to their knowledge and understanding of the way of working their land, their vines and their wine.

 

The result brings delight to the palate, whilst the texture and the refinement are the subtle reminder of the dedication, passion and humility of this delightful family of great Burgundy producers.

 

MARKETING POSITION

The wines of the Domaine Jacques Thevenot & Fils are available on the U S A market, which is at present relatively calm. There is no exclusivity arrangement.

 

The importers and distributors are Martine’s Wines and Ted Talley, California; Julienne Importing Co., Illinois; V.O.S. Selections, New York and Wines of

 

France, Inc. of New Jersey.

In France, sales are mainly direct and have depended for many years almost entirely upon word of mouth. Total production, all appellations, red and white, is approximately 40,000 bottles.

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