Napa
By Hervé Pennequin
Napa valley has since its debut in the wine world became a major key player in the wine industry. The history shows us that it was not that easy and it took hard work and beliefs to belong to one of the most recognized wine regions in the world in less than 200 years.
Napa back in the 1800’s was still inhabited with Indians, the Wappo Indians was a tribe living a luscious life within a rich wildlife, bear, grizzlies, elk, panthers were everywhere in the so-called “Green Valley”. By the 1830’s, the “Bear Rebellion” ended the domination by the Spanish government over the Mexican, California was free. The California flag actually relates that period with the bear. The Mexican American war between 1846 and 1848 saw the freedom of California passed over the United States to become one of the 27 counties of California.
In the meantime, Napa valley witnessed the transition from the Wappo Indians to see more settlers and pioneers recognizing the wealth of Napa. George Calvert Yount was accredited to recognize the potential of planting winegrapes, John Plachett was recognized to plant the first commercial winery, Dr George Crane and Hamilton Walker Crabb, to promote wines.
Under the Mexican ownership, it was quite easy to own a land, which helped the region to attract the pioneers, after a little while, more Americans were living and farming in Napa than the inhabitants. The war ended, the Gold Rush in the late 1850’s brought even more pioneers and Napa became the pole town of the valley. In the beginning of the 1860’s, wineries started to take place.
Charles Krug in 1861, Schramsberg in 1862, Beringer in 1876 and Inglenook in 1879 were among 140 wineries existing by 1889. The phylloxera in the late 1890’s stopped the rapid expansion that Napa was facing but did not discourage the true believers. During the prohibition from 1920 and the repeal of 1933, wineries were obliged to change directions and the only ones who succeeded were making sacramental wines.
The renaissance of Napa really started again when a group of vintners came together in 1943 to establish an association, Napa Valley Vintners, which would coordinate the efforts of each and every one to promote the wines of Napa domestically and abroad.
Followed in 1975 by the establishment of the Napa Valley Grape Growers Association, it is clear that today; Napa has a leading force with those two organizations that help to organize and control the grape growing, the winemaking and the marketing internationally in a common interest.
In 1981, Napa witnessed the first wine auction at the Meadowood Resort (of Bill Harlan) which would become the most successful charity wine event in the World, raising over $50 millions for local health care, youth programs and affordable housing, drawing participants from all over the globe.
Today Napa possesses close to 300 wineries and Napa has since received its own “AVA” (American Viticultural Appellation) in 1983, first in California, 16 other AVA’s has been approved : Atlas Peak, Chiles Valley, Diamond Mountain, Howell Mountain, Los Carneros, Mt Veeder, Oakville, Rutherford, St Helena, Spring Mountain, Stags Leap District, Yountville, Wild Horse Valley, Oak Knoll District and North Coast (in 1983) which encompasses all those AVAs. Calistoga is still pending at the date of editing this article.NAPA VALLEY (AVA in 1983)
Bound on both sides by mountains, the Napa Valley stretches approximately 30 miles in a northwesterly direction, its width ranging from five miles at the widest point near the city of Napa to just a mile where the valley narrows near the town of Calistoga. The diversity of soils is unique for Napa, close to 30 different types of soils have been identified from volcanic, maritime and alluvial origins, ranging from well-drained gravelly loams to moisture-retaining silty clays.
The configuration of hills, exposure and in some parts high elevation throughout the valley, creates numerous mesoclimates. The proximity of the Pacific Ocean moderates the temperature especially in the Carneros region influenced by the San Pablo Bay, bringing warm summers and cold winters. This brings perfect weather conditions for growing fine wine grapes.
ST HELENA (AVA in 1995)
St Helena is located south of Calistoga. The climate is cooler than Calistoga which helps in bringing elegance to the wines. Red wines are predominantly produced.
LOS CARNEROS (AVA in 1983)
The proximity of the Pacific Ocean brings cool temperatures and the combination of the summer fog from San Pablo Bay, warm days and a long growing season make the Carneros the first wine region classified as an AVA based on the climate rather than political boundaries.
Carneros soils are dense and shallow (approximately three feet deep), high in clay content while the subsoils vary with their location. The elevation in Carneros ranges from sea level in the south to 400 feet in the Mayacamas foothills.
The long, moderate growing season allows the grapes to mature slowly and evenly and identify the region ideal for growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The discovery of sitevineyards have been found very well suited for Merlot and Syrah. The long, moderate growing season allows the maturation of the grapes to be slow and even, giving balanced acidity and flavors, rich fruit and extracted color.
MOUNT VEEDER AVA (AVA in 1990)
The Mount Veeder region covers 25 square miles and the vineyards are some of the steepest vineyards in California. Located in the Southeastern portions of the Mayacamas Mountains, the district divides Napa and Sonoma Counties.
The Mount Veeder is a 2677 foot high volcanic peak still covered by 90% of wild wood trees and natural wildlife. The high altitude of the vineyards places them above the morning fog bathing them with gentle sunshine.
The evenings still stay warm protected from the woody slopes. All these conditions limit spring frost.Rich and full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignons are planted and particularly successful along with intense Chardonnays.Great Syrah and Merlot are also planted.
RUTHERFORD AVA
(AVA in 1993)
Rutherford is considered the historic grape growing center of the Napa Valley. The following timeline is crucial to understand the steps that made Rutherford a key center for the wine industry in Napa.George Yount was the first to plant wine grapes in Napa valley when he settled in 1838. Yount, an explorer and pioneer, was granted 11,814 acres of land called “Caymus Rancho” by Mexican General Mariano G. Vallejo as repayment for a variety of services.
From 1850 to 1880, another important pioneer, Thomas Rutherford, established himself as a grower and producer and made serious investments in grape production and winemaking. When Yount passed away in 1865, the remaining land he kept was sold by the court. Much of this property was purchased by Judge Serranus Hastings. It surrounded most of the property owned by the Rutherfords.
Hastings sold a corner of his land to Senator Seneca Ewer, who built a winery now Beaulieu Vineyard in 1885. He also sold a portion of his property to a young Finnish fur trader, Captain Gustave Niebaum.
Niebaum purchased several pieces of property in 1880, including the Watson ranch and land surrounding Rutherford Station. His first crush was in 1882 at a winery facility that had been part of Hasting’s «Nook Farm.» Never happy with the facility, Niebaum began construction of a new winery which was completed in 1887; he called it «Inglenook».
By the late 1880’s, a private census reported 2.05 million vines under cultivation in the Rutherford area, even as California was facing its first bout with Phylloxera, a microscopic root louse that slowly began devastating vineyards, although this didn’t slow vineyard purchasing and planting much.
Enter Georges de Latour, a French immigrant whose first successful venture in the Napa Valley was a cream of tartar business. In 1900, de Latour and his wife, Fernande, purchased a 4-acre parcel of land adjacent to Niebaum’s Inglenook which they called Beaulieu, meaning «beautiful place.» De Latour planted his vineyards with imported rootstock from France, resistant to Phylloxera.
He subsequently became a primary supplier of rootstock to vineyards stricken by the infestation, throughout California.
A second crisis struck Rutherford’s wine industry in 1919: Prohibition. Again, de Latour appeared prepared. Due to a close association with the Catholic Church, he began producing sacramental wine for the church which allowed his wine business to thrive during these gloomy years.
Following the repeal of Prohibition in 1933, de Latour continued to make significant contributions to the growth of Rutherford’s wine industry.
His wines, as well as those from Inglenook, began collecting gold medals and increasing attention from around the world. Beaulieu was only one of two recipients of the «Grand Sweepstakes» award from the Golden Gate Exposition in San Francisco in 1939. Just prior to his death, de Latour brought a young enologist to Beaulieu, André Tchelistcheff, who was to become a legend himself.

Tchelistcheff once generously insisted in an interview with James Laube that it was John Daniel Jr., and not he, who was Napa’s greatest winemaker, for Daniel not only set impeccably high standards for his wines, he also had the courage not to sell wines of inferior quality. Daniel, great-nephew and heir to the Gustave Niebaum estate, became owner-manager of Inglenook in 1939 and ran it for 25 years. He served also as its winemaker, eliciting widespread respect in the Napa Valley and wielding influence throughout the California wine industry. His 1941 Cabernet Sauvignon is still considered one of the finest wines ever produced in California.
André Tchelistcheff, though, brought with him many innovations including cold fermentation and controlled malolactic fermentation. He eventually consulted for a long list of vintners, and his contributions to the wine industry over the 92 years of his life are admired around the world.
By the time of his death in 1994, it could be said that Tchelistcheff had led Rutherford and Napa Valley’s wine industry through its period of reconstruction (1938-1965); an era of rebirth (1965-1980); and ultimately, the age of its refinement (the 1990s).
Originally, Rutherford was to be divided into two appellations: Rutherford and Rutherford Bench. This last is an alluvial fan than runs along the western side of the valley and produces some of Napa’s most prestigious wines. Although it is called the Rutherford Bench, this alluvial fan actually extends from St Helena, through Rutherford and Oakville into Yountville. Considered in its entirely, the Bench contains some of the most prized vineyards in Napa.
There has been a movement among Oakville growers to designate an Oakville Bench as well, but so far nothing has come of it. Today’s Rutherford is a fairly large appellation that includes 6840 acres of which 3263 are planted on the Bench. The primary varietal planted is Cabernet Sauvignon with 70% of the total followed by Merlot and small acres of Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and others.
STAG’S LEAP DISTRICT
(AVA in 1989)
The district is located in the eastern portion of the Napa Valley, 5 to 7 miles north of the town of Napa and east of the Napa River along the Silverado Trail. Barely a mile wide and two miles long, the district comprises roughly 2,700 acres, of which half are planted to vineyards.
Two main types of soils predominate in the district: loam and clay at the base of the district where the Napa River was running once broader– volcanic composites resulting from eruptions millions years ago and the slow erosion of the Vaca Ranges on the eastern slopes.
These gravely soils, and those of the hillsides, are coarser and retain less water than most resulting in low-vigor vines that yield fruit of great intensity and flavor—the “rock soft” wines of the Stags Leap District.
The rock facades of the palisades reflect the heat of the sun onto the vineyards below, causing temperatures to rise more quickly than in neighboring vineyards. As afternoon draws to a close, the hills funnel the cool, marine air flowing north from the San Pablo Bay through the Stags Leap District corridor.
The cooling effect of this breeze, coupled with nighttime air drainage off the mountains and hills, means lower nighttime temperatures. This allows the grapes to achieve an excellent balance of acid and sugar and also minimizes the threat of frost.
The end result is a longer growing season of warm days and cool nights—perfect for late-maturing varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon. Most vineyards are planted with Bordeaux varietals (up to 90%) and are enjoyed for their combination of power and elegance. There are also small amounts of Petite Sirah (also called Durif), Sangiovese and Sauvignon Blanc.
DIAMOND MOUNTAIN (AVA in 2001)
Covering 5,000 rocky acres in the Mayacamas Range on the northeast side of Napa Valley, this region has just over 500 acres under vine, mostly planted with Cabernet Sauvignon. Due to the high elevation of vineyards, the fog that influences the valley floor is not a factor here.
Unique, porous volcanic soils and extended gentle exposure to the sun are the reasons to make world-class wines. The Cabernets are rich and powerful with chewy textures and extracted tannins. Cabernet Franc and Zinfandel are also being grown with great success.
ATLAS PEAK (AVA in 1992)
The climate of this appellation is unique, partly because its elevation frees it from fog that blankets the valley below in the afternoon.Due to its western exposition, the region benefits from long afternoons of sunshine. The volcanic and porous soils contribute to great radiant cooling.
The temperature can drop as much as 30 F in the afternoon, allowing grapes to maintain good acidity. Located on the western slope of the Vaca Ranges, northeast of the city of Napa, south of Howell Mountain, this AVA has over 1,500 acres of vines planted of grapes that have been grown within the region for well over 100 years. Zinfandel is the emerging best varietal; Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are also planted.
CHILES VALLEY DISTRICT (AVA in 1999)
This narrow appellation in the Vaca Ranges along the northeast side of the Napa Valley can be described as a «valley within a valley». It was named after Joseph Ballinger Chiles, who was given a land grant, Rancho Catacula from the Mexican government in the mid-1800s. The Chiles Valley AVA covers an area of approximately 6,000 acres, with more than 1,000 acres under vine.
The San Pablo Bay cool breezes do not affect the region which is marked by a more continental climate that suits well the Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc grapes and often labeled with both the Chiles Valley and Napa Valley designations.
HOWELL MOUNTAIN (AVA in 1984)
Howell Mountain is renowned for magnificently complex wines of earthy austerity and elegant robustness. Overlooking St. Helena from the Vaca Ranges on the valley’s northeast side, the appellation encompasses around 14,000 acres, but only 600 acres under vines.
The region is rugged, with vineyards at 1,400-2,200 feet above sea level, avoiding the influences of fog that often blankets the valley floor below. Even so, Howell Mountain receives cool Pacific breezes.
Largely due to the elevation, the climate here is characterized by moderate temperatures that are cooler than in most other parts of the valley. While vineyards in the valley are often blanketed in fog, those on the mountain are enjoying sunshine. The soils of this area are mostly well-drained tuff and volcanic rock. Water retention is poor, and vine growers commonly irrigates, producing vines with low vigor and deep roots, the stony volcanic soil and the cool weather keep yields low. Howell Mountain is well known for its Bordeaux varieties and Zinfandels.
YOUNTVILLE (AVA in 1999)
In 1836, George Calvert Yount planted the first vineyard just outside the town that now bears his name. Since then, vineyards have always existed in the appellation. Great wine houses reside here and continue a proud heritage of winegrowing.
This southernmost AVA in Napa has one of the valley’s coolest vineyard exposures, significantly impacted by the maritime influences of the San Pablo Bay. Its long, chilly growing season produces incredibly long-lived Cabernet Sauvignon, with rich tannins and deep concentration.
Domaine Chandon is located in Yountville as the Chardonnay for the production of sparkling wines has a great vibrant acidity. A little bit over 4200 acres are covered by vineyards.
SPRING MOUNTAIN (AVA in 1993)
Currently known for its mountain-grown Cabernets, this region’s first premium wines were whites, particularly Chardonnay and Riesling. The vineyards in this part of Napa County are hand-tilled and range from small to smaller. Grapes are handpicked on steep, east-facing terraces of the Mayacamas Mountains.
Days are cooler and nights are warmer than on the valley floor due to the high altitude of the vineyards, up to 2600 feet above sea level. The growing season is long, ranging from mid-March to as late as November. Spring Mountain has diverse mesoclimates which allow all varietals to grow well.
OAKVILLE (AVA in 1993)
When H. W. Crabb planted a vineyard in this central Napa Valley AVA in 1868, he named his chosen site ‘To Kalon’, Greek for ‘most beautiful’. Today, this vineyard is surrounded by 5,000 acres of vines, in an appellation that only totals 5,700 acres. The region is virtually a flat field, squeezed between the Mayacamas Mountains to the west and the Vaca Ranges on the east.
The gravelly, well-drained soils are perfect for the world-class wines that are made here, mostly from Bordeaux varieties. They are characteristically rich and dense, with firm tannins and often with notes of mint and herbs. The cooling wind and fog that rolls in during the afternoon greatly influences the fine balance achieved in these quality wines. Another vineyard for world-class quality wine is the famous “Martha’s vineyard” of Heitz winery.
WILD HORSE VALLEY (AVA in 1988)
The Wild Horse Valley AVA has barely over 100 acres under vine, and just a single winery calling it home. Straddling Napa and Solano counties, this viticultural area enjoys more sunshine hours than both Napa and Green Valleys, as summer fogs usually stop before reaching Wild Horse’s elevation.
Its southerly location near San Pablo Bay exposes it to cool westerly winds from the ocean and bay, especially in the spring and summer.
There have been vineyards in this valley, off and on, for well over 100 years. Joseph Vorbe, one of the earlier settlers, planted 50 acres of wine grapes here in 1881. These days the very few wines emanating from the Wild Horse Valley appellation are certainly of distinctive quality, although viticulture still struggles to join the rest of Napa as the most popular agricultural pursuit.
OAK KNOLL DISTRICT (AVA in 2004)
In April 26, 2004 the “Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley” was being formally recognized as Napa’s newest AVA. This 8,300 acre viticultural area (with 3,500 acres under vine) is located toward the southern end of the Napa Valley at a relatively low elevation on the valley floor, making it accessible to the climate moderating effects of San Pablo Bay. Cooling breezes and coastal fog slow ripening, extending a growing season which can last up to eight months.
Oak Knoll’s cool climate distinguishes it from other Napa appellations but Carneros located to Oak Knoll’s immediate south, can claim the similar great growing conditions for wine grapes in quest for acidity and freshness. The site suits very well for Chardonnay, Riesling also tends to excel balance along with the Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc in some parts.
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