Three days of intensive tasting, taking in nearly 200 Red wines and 50 White wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape of the 2003 and 2004 vintage, and the 2005 where the whites are concerned.

These are not easy wines to taste because of their richness and their weight. However, Châteauneuf-du-Pape counts several great winemakers per square kilometres, just like Bordeaux and Burgundy, and the entire area only covers 3,200 hectares. Most of this is red, in fact the vast majority (91,000 hectolitres or 1,213,333 bottles) and the white production is a mere 6,000 hectolitres (80,000 bottles).


It is a complicated region because there are 13 permitted grape varieties. Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Cournoise, Muscadin, Picpoul, Grenache, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Roussane, Vaccarese, Picardan, Terret Noir. It could be said that the reds are basically Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault blends, whilst the whites are Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussane, Bourboulenc and Picpoul.

 

Wine is either mono varietal or blends. Together with the different soils and climates, different topographies, different wine making techniques and philosophies, these permit the most amazing and fascinating diversity. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is also today one of the most dynamic vineyard regions of France.

Winemakers full of pep and passion, with huge enthusiasm, ready to welcome and spend hours tasting their wines with anybody who shows an intelligent and open minded interest.

This resurgence, this wave of new generation winemakers, is both obvious and exhilarating. The wine of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which used to be vast, rich and massive are today frequently elegant, supple and fine. They are not light and they have not lost power, but they have refined the fruit, perfected the ripeness and balanced the alcohol, sugars, acidities and, above all, the tannins. This is mastery indeed.

Many growers today use what the French call “lutte raisonnée” – respect for the soil and the environment, cessation of the use of pesticides and only treating the vines if and when necessary for what is required, rather than systematically.
This is helping the regeneration of the soil and therefore, the health of the vineyards. Thus only about half a dozen growers have felt the need to be certified Bio. It was impressive to note that very few growers are over oaking their wines – a sad “à la mode” practice in some of France’s greatest vineyards. Here restraint is used.

Knowledgeable use of the different permitted grape varieties produces splendid complexity in the better wines. Roussanne, for example, is fragile and must be handled with the utmost delicacy.

Grenache is the heart of the wine. Bourboulenc is late ripening and used in smallish doses, say 5 – 10%, is wonderfully useful in keeping up a good level of acidity to ensure freshness in the wine as well as increasing the ability of the wine to age well.

 

Here growers have to contend with the famous Mistral Wind, which has the effect of hardening the flavours and rendering the wines more aggressive. This has to be carefully handled and there is hardly an ideal and protected slope to be found anywhere that is not by now covered with vines.
Wine growers achieve good acidity levels and restraint in the expression of their wine, which enhances the elegant, refined and pleasure giving characteristics of these wine. The effect of heat stress is less evident as the vines and the soil are better adapted to a hotter, more “extreme” slightly continental climate.

The “Fédération des Syndicates de Producteurs de Châteauneuf du Pape” took care of setting up and organising our visit. This organism groups together the various viti – vinicultural syndicates of the producers and work very hard to unify the growers for the common good. They have done a great job in this respect.
Their hospitality, and that of their members, was generous and they did everything in their power to ensure that as much as possible was seen of the appellation, and as many wines tasted under excellent conditions, as possible during the very short visit. Sincere thanks go to Michel Blanc and his team for their kindness, their time, their knowledge and their hospitality.

 

2003 VINTAGE
As we all know, 2003 beat all records for heat in most of Europe with Orange and Carpentras very often being the two hottest towns in France. Respectively 83 and 92 summer days topped 30°C, instead of the 46 which is the average. Also, from February to August only 132mm. of rain fell, and only 51mm. from May to August.
This meant very early harvesting. In many places the white grapes and the Syrah were picked during the 2nd half of August – unheard of ! A record of precocity. All this, plus excellent weather during the vintage, meant fine, healthy and ripe grapes with phenolic ripeness.

Small rainfalls at the end of August stimulated the increase of both polyphenols and anthocyanins. Wonderful deep colors resulted.The White Wines have astonishing freshness allied to intense ripe fruit bouquets and flavours. The Red Wines deep colored and powerful, dense, concentrated, but also elegant, supple and fresh ! Deep fruit in wines that will last for many years.3,150 hectares produced 102,000 hectolitres of AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape (95,700 Red and 6,300 White).

That is an average of 32 hectolitres/hectares for an appellation that allows 35. Just as a matter of interest, the local Syndicat celebrated its 80th birthday in 2003 and Fédération its 40th.


2004 VINTAGE
After 2004, the temperatures during the period of vegetation of the vine was back to normal, 53 days were over 30°C with the average over a 80 year period standing at 46. However, sunshine hours were greater and this caused bud-break and flowering to be 10 days earlier than usual.

Moreover, August in 2004 had heavy rains – in some places, disastrously so. The less disastrous areas already had 100mm. These were followed by dry weather and winds (Mistral). All this kick started again the maturation of the grapes, which had been blocked by hydric stress.

Finally, optimum phenolic ripeness was achieved overall, especially with the Grenache.Fresh nights in August kept the acidity levels up and concentrated the color. A dry, windy September (10 days of strong Mistral) concentrated the grape must and fine, fully ripe grapes were picked.

The Grenache has a deep, purple color and liquorice notes. The production of 97,000 hectolitres, well below the 10 year average of 102,000 hectolitres, were 91,000 of Red wine and 6,000 White, the overall average was 30hecto/hectare. This relatively low production contributed towards the richness and concentration and stability of the 2004 Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
When tasting in June 2006, half of the 2004 were still in barrel and half in bottle, having been bottled during March-April. In some cases, because of recent very hot, dry weather and a powerful Mistral, wines showed signs of reduction. Some needed aeration and racking, for those still in barrel.

 

This is not a fault in the wine and does not deter from their inherent quality, but made them less fruited and fragrant for the tastings.The Mistral has a strong drying and hardening effect. This has therefore been reflected and mentioned in the tasting notes where appropriate and is the reason that the 2004’s showed more irregularity.

The best are truly fabulous, better that the 2003, whilst the less good showed marked unbalanced. However, overall the impression was that the 2004 vintage is superior to the 2003, and will develop excellently with more regularity to make fine, mature bottles in the future.


2005 WHITE WINE VINTAGE
We were highly impressed with the general standard of these wines. Unfortunately, we did not see that many. It is quite clear that White Châteauneuf du Pape, although only produced in very small quantities, decidedly merits its excellent reputation. The vintage produced excellent fruit acidity and sweet ripeness equilibrium.

The phenolics maturity was attained, due in part, to the decided and optimum difference between day (often 30°C) and night time (regularly no higher than 17°C) temperatures, especially during July and August.

2005 was an exceptionally dry year (only 12 years over the last hundred years were drier), yet the average temperature remained reasonable (23.4°C) with only 46 days of extreme heat (against 92 in 2003 !). The Mistral was also a more regular companion. 6,000 hectolitres of white was produced.
With some exceptions, the wines were rich and ripe, but with splendid freshness and vitality. The fruit was vibrant and with both floral and fruited aromas and flavours reminiscent of flowers, lemon leaves, cherry, yellow (peach and apricot) and white (white peach, nectarine and pear) fruit and fresh almonds fruit, not neglecting the attractive minerality of some.

The grapes were clearly fully ripe and the wines were generous, full bodied and powerful but managed to balance power, freshness and intensity.Well structured and well balanced, they should mature well and make fine bottles to relish in years to come.

2003 RED WINES
DOMAINE MATHIEU
COLOR : Fine, clean, bright pale ruby.
NOSE : Fresh, fruity, clean, rather restrained – red fruit and spice.
PALATE : Good, fresh, pure fruit, attractive spice, integrated tannins.Not a big wine, but fruited and charming. Easy drinking.

DOMAINE MATHIEU, Marquis Anselme
COLOR : Young, forceful red ruby, fresh purple tinges.
NOSE : Very young and vigorous, fresh ripe black, spicy fruit. Dense, rich expression of complex aromas.
PALATE : Very rich, dense and ripe fragrance. Long, juicy, deep and succulent. Good concentration, powerful, but sweet and ripe tannins. Well managed wine.

DOMAINE MATHIEU, Vin Di Felibre
COLOR : Bright, very deep ruby red, touch of purple.
NOSE : Violets, sweet spice, cloves, heather and rosemary. Delicious hint of Havana tobacco and undergrowth, trace of “Garrigue”of the Rhône. Complex.
PALATE : Fresh, well integrated fruit. Intense, deep, powerful, non-aggressive, firm tannins. Fine spice. Energetic flavours. Good expression of the “terroir”. Complex wine with potential to last, fine structure and concentration.

DOMAINE PIERRE USSEGLIO & FILS
COLOR : Very bright, fine, pale ruby, fresh and clean.
NOSE : Generous, spicy red fruit.
PALATE : Fine structure with density, presence of fine, smooth, non-aggressive tannins. Long in the mouth, very agreeable and pleasurable.

DOMAINE PIERRE USSEGLIO & FILS, Cuvée de mon Aïeul
COLOR : Bright ruby red, hint of garnet in reflections.
NOSE : Clean, straightforward, macerated black fruit, rich, smoky, spicy, juicy. Leather and empyreumatic notes.
PALATE : Very juicy, ripe, intense fruit. Firm, well fleshed structure,well integrated, smooth tannins. Fine austerity on finish.

DOMAINE DE LA CÔTE DE L’ANGE
COLOR : Bright, deep, intense ruby red with hint of purple.
NOSE : Red fruit, warm notes of spice, hint of ripe figs and pine needles, touch of nuttiness.
PALATE : Clean, vibrant acidity, attractive notes of “terroir”, generous fruit. Firm, strong tannins with will mature well and keep the wine for a long time.

DOMAINE DE LA CÔTE DE L’ANGE, Vieilles Vignes
COLOR : Deep, vivid, red, garnet purple.
NOSE : Ripe, rich fruit with depth and clean, vigorous drive. Richly marinated, black fruit with good fruit acidity. Enormous but harnessed power, quite elegant presentation. Smoky notes.
PALATE : Fruit freshness, yet rich balance, deep and intense flavours.Powerful tannins, but integrating into the amplitude of fruit and other structural flavours. Will mature very well. Pleasure giving, “gourmandise” wine.

DOMAINE DU GALET DES PAPES, Tradition
COLOR : Bright, quite light, ruby red.
NOSE : Fine, pure, black and red fruit, wonderful expression of “terroir”, spicy, fresh undergrowth notes. Ethereal aromas.
PALATE : Deep seated fresh, ripe black and red fruit (black cherries), rich and generous, spicy and vibrant. Lovely “terroir” expression. Fine, powerful tannins with velvety notes, long and delicious texture. Charming length.

DOMAINE DU GALET DES PAPES, Vieilles Vignes
COLOR : Deep, developing ruby red.
NOSE : Restrained, refined and developing. Integrating delicate smokiness, pure, nutty aromas. Lovely undergrowth. Fine, complex fragrance.
PALATE : Fine, pure, refinement. Complex blend of integrated flavours. Gracious, evolved fruit and tonic acidity. Well expressed, smooth, ripe tannins. Elegant structure, great charm, slightly ethereal. Excellent wine.

DOMAINE DU CAILLOU
COLOR : Bright, clean, fresh, vivid ruby red.
NOSE : Strong, firm fruit, aromas of almonds and cherries, hint of smokiness.
PALATE : Fresh, tonic fruit ! Deep, fine, powerful, somewhat austere,well expressed tannins, balancing ripe and generous fruit. Fine fruit structure and texture. Depth with restraint. Wine for laying down wine, but charming right now.

LE CALICE DE SAINT PIERRE
COLOR : Fabulous red ruby, vivid and bright.
NOSE : Sound, firm, hint of redcurrants, hint of undergrowth and pine forest.
PALATE : A certain positive austerity, touch of liquorice and chocolate.Sound, firm structure and very firm, strong, non-aggressive tannins. Long finish. Concentrated, dense wine but remaining fresh. Wine to wait for.

CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL
COLOR : Intense, vivid, bright, deep ruby red.
NOSE : Clean, vibrant, restrained, very fresh, young fruit, a touch of delicate blackcurrant, delicate hint of undergrowth.
PALATE : Fresh, clean, very subdued and restrained attack. Smooth, intense and concentrated, slightly spicy, very young, need time to express itself. Mineral notes. Tannins are very present, but integrated and fruit is intense, yet restrained, almost primary. Firm structure and texture. This wine is a keeper par excellence, even if slightly atypical.

BOSQUET DES PAPES
COLOR : Bright, light, clear, pale ruby.
NOSE : Fresh, round and juicy. Fresh smoky, forest floor. Integrated aromas.
PALATE : Very ripe, red fruit with open and generous flavours. Well harnessed, quite powerful tannins. A more forward wine – can be enjoyed as of now, if so wished.

DOMAINE DE LA MORDORÉE, La Reine des Bois
COLOR : Vivid, brilliant, ruby red, purple edge.
NOSE : Restrained, but open, clean, ripe fruit, black cherry, spicy notes, touch of undergrowth.
PALATE : Juicy attack, soft, ripe, rich and forward. Fleshy, ripe tannins. Shows hot summer of 2003.

DOMAINE DE VILLENEUVE, Vieilles Vignes
COLOR : Fine, bright, vivid, light ruby red.
NOSE : Very subdued before aeration. Plenty of red and blackcurrant aromas, fresh and crisp, hint of smokiness.
PALATE : A rich mouthful of ripe fruit. Luscious on tongue with well managed tannins lending structure to this charming, easy drinking wine. Ready as of now, but will remain enjoyable for some time.

COMTE DE LAUZE
COLOR : Light, vivid, pale ruby, red, brilliant reflections.
NOSE : Attack slightly burnt, very ripe fruit, hint of liquorice.
PALATE : Restrained, lovely notes of fresh undergrowth, smooth structure, fresh, integrated and noble tannins. Balanced with long finish. Fine wine to ponder over while enjoying it.

LA COUR DES PAPES - LES GRANDES SERRES
COLOR : Bright, pale ruby, vivid with amber reflections.
NOSE : Subdued expression, hints of cloves and spice, delicate fruit aromas.
PALATE : Smooth, fine noble fruit, delicate austerity, quite powerful,yet velvety tannins. Complex, long. Great freshness and juicy energy. Needs time, still in process of gathering all its elements together, but has all it needs to become fine wine.

DOMAINE DE FONTAVIN
COLOR : Bright, vivid, light ruby red.
NOSE : Spicy undergrowth, very fresh, red fruit. Complicated, quite severe bouquet.
PALATE : Generous and concentrated red fruit, succulent and spicy.Deep, ripe flavours. Tannins firmly present forming backdrop for a long and rich finish.

LES CLEFS D’OR, DOMAINE JEAN DEYDIER
COLOR : Bright, vivid red, purple ruby.
NOSE : Empyreumatic notes, roasted plum and somewhat animal notes. Shows effects of stress.
PALATE : Deep, slightly raisin, intense flavours. Tannins leathery and granular on tongue. Hot condition wine, but deep, intense flavours overall. Quite agreeable, powerful wine.

EDDIE FÉRAUD
COLOR : Deep, vivid ruby red.
NOSE : Macerated, quite pungent, black fruit, intense – almost inky bouquet. Liquorice and spice notes.
PALATE : Fruit somewhat burnt and austere, but nevertheless remains fresh. A strong, powerful, intense, dense and deep wine. Huge tannin structure, firm and granular expression, close knit. Long in mouth and lingering aftertaste.

DOMAINE DE MARCOUX
COLOR : Bright, ruby red, vivid reflections.
NOSE : Elegant, fragrant attack. Gentle, pure fruit. Fresh, ripe and complex.
PALATE : Fresh, balanced fruit, hint of forest floor. Very firm tannins. Smooth and pure wine with elegance and finesse, in spite of latent power. Iron fist in a velvet glove. Beautifully made.

DOMAINE DE MARCOUX, Vieilles Vignes
COLOR : Vivid, young, deep ruby purple, touch garnet.
NOSE : Lovely expression of fine, deep fruit, layer upon layer, complex,spicy, delicate herbal and undergrowth notes. Long, rich and velvety elegance.
PALATE : Rich, deep, fruit integrating into smooth, yet powerful tannins. Long and suave and complex. Very enjoyable, sumptuous and beautiful wine.

DOMAINE CHANTE - PERDRIX
COLOR : Bright, ruby red.
NOSE : Delicate, empyreumatic attack. Fine undergrowth notes, deeply concentrated fruit, spice and length. Pure, refined and developed nose – gracious and subtle and complex.
PALATE : Smooth, fine, nutty, ripe, intense, long and gracious. Spice, undergrowth, well balanced tannic presence. Very delicate and elegant. Great potential – wait for this one, but can be enjoyed relatively soon too.

CLOS DU MONT – OLIVET
COLOR : Bright, ruby red, delicate tinge of amber on rim.
NOSE : Clean, vigorous, well fruited, dark notes of undergrowth, fresh and attractive.
PALATE : Fresh attack, succulent fruit, sound, sturdy and generous – lingering fragrance. Straight forward flavours, round body and very pleasant.

DOMAINE FONT DE MICHELLE
COLOR : Vivid, red ruby.
NOSE : Fresh, nutty, almond notes, spicy fruit, hint of forest floor, quite subtle and attractive, if slightly severe.
PALATE : Opens in glass upon aeration. Deep, long, ripe fruit, well controlled and balanced by firm tannins and fresh acidity. Length and grows in mouth, elegant austerity. This wine will continue to grow and mature.

DOMAINE FONT DE MICHELLE, Cuvée Etienne Gonnet
COLOR : Deep, red ruby, touch garnet.
NOSE : Strong attack, slightly extracted notes, followed by rich, ripe macerated red and black fruit aromas. Fresh fruit acidity, smokiness. Slight hint of vanilla.
PALATE : Fresh, ripe, juicy attack. Big, broad, deep, quite concentrated, hearty flavours. Quite powerful, but smooth tannins integrating into masses of juicy fruit.

LA CUVÉE DES SOMMELIERS
COLOR : Developed ruby, orange tinge at rim.
NOSE : Very subdued, almost closed at first. Notes of undergrowth and fine, rich leather slowly escaping. Elegant.
PALATE : Fresh attack, very pure, gentle and juicy fruit. Long and grows in mouth. Finishes on spice and vigour. Firm tannic structure.

CHÂTEAU MONT THABOR
COLOR : Bright, ruby red, brilliant reflections.
NOSE : Dense, fresh fruit, fine spices, liquorice, forest floor, ripeness,richness, luscious and succulent aromas. Complex layers of fragrance.
PALATE : Fruit and juice, but quite powerful and long. Enough structure to maintain freshness and balance. Delicious, but deep flavours. Will keep.

DOMAINE DE SAINT PAUL
COLOR : Bright, developing ruby red from the purple heart of the glass.
NOSE : Lovely attack. Refined, pure, gentle, well integrated fruit, deep undergrowth, fine spices.
PALATE : Fresh fruit, long and balanced. Showing evolution, beautifully refined, well made, elegant, gracious with finesse rather than power. Complexity both in aromas and flavours. Aristocratic, very fine wine.

DOMAINE DE SAINT PAUL, Jumille
COLOR : Young, deep red purple, hint of garnet.
NOSE : Forceful smoky, toasty introduction. Big, intense, rather heavy macerated fruit, very powerful aromas.
PALATE : Intense, huge, enormous flavours, macerated fruit and well integrated tannins. Powerful wine.

DOMAINE RAYMOND USSEGLIO & FILS
COLOR : Vivid, young, dense purple.
NOSE : Young, vigorous, juicy, freshly picked fruit fragrance.
PALATE : Full and vigorous. Very tannic and concentrated at present.Not yet integrated need plenty of time.

DOMAINE DE PIGNAN
COLOR : Bright, ruby red, delicate tinge of orange at rim, evolution underway.
NOSE : Violets, red fruit and nuts, floral notes. Deliciously pure, refined, long and complex.
PALATE : Spicy and fine, ripe red and black fruit, peppery notes, hint of violets, deep undergrowth. Fine integrating tannins, good fruit acidity and balance. Long, quite elegant, delicate flavours. Complex aromatic panoply, inviting repeated enjoyment. Soon now, but would mature well.

LA BASTIDE SAINT DOMINIQUE, Secrets de Pignan
COLOR : Bright, vivid, young ruby red, purple rim.
NOSE : Fresh, full, fruit attack. Red and black macerated fruit, smoky, cloves and spice, leather creating complex aromatic expression.Minerality.
PALATE : Succulent, smooth, mineral, spicy notes. Fresh, austere fragrance and flavours. Fruit tannins well integrated. Refined and complex with delicate restraint. Finesse.

CHÂTEAU DE GIGOGNAN, Clos du Roi
COLOR : Attractive, bright, deep, red ruby.
NOSE : Delicate, well integrated aromas. Spicy, slightly macerated, ripe fruit. Smoky, forest floor, heather. Very fresh bouquet, firm acidity. Cohesive fragrance.
PALATE : Fine, restrained, elegant, pure fruit. Balanced and fresh expression. Solid, well shaped structure with fine, integrating, powerful tannins. Mineral finish. Quite austere, but graceful and stylish. Excellent potential.

DOMAINE DE LA CHARBONNIÈRE, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
COLOR : Bright, vivid, red ruby.
NOSE : Ripe, spicy, rich, fresh fruit, good acidity.
PALATE : Rich, very ripe fruit, but with pristine freshness, clean fruit acidity expression, juicy. Almonds, fine, steadily integrating tannins, solid, attractive structure with mineral finish.

DOMAINE DE LA CHARBONNIÈRE, Cuvée Les Hautes Brusquières
COLOR : Bright, deep, vivid purple garnet.
NOSE : Very discreet, classic and pure attack. Gentle and refined. Florality, integrated fruit aromas, deep, fresh undergrowth.
PALATE : Florality, mildly spiced and herbal notes. Fleshy, fine structure, powerful, quite granular tannins, but integrating against backdrop of deep, juicy fruit. Attractive texture, long and balanced. Rich, black flavours grow in mouth, very charming, huge wine with power behind it. Beautifully managed.

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