Château Rauzan-Gassies

By Petronella Salvi

The younger generation takes on the challenge

                The third generation of Quié is already thoroughly involved and active in the management and the transformation of Château Rauzan–Gassies, once part of an enormous entity with its neighbour, Château Rauzan–Segla, of the estates of Pierre de Mesures de Rauzan, farmer of Château Latour and who created Château Pichon Longueville.

Anne Françoise, her twin brother, Jean–Philippe and Paul–Henri, the eldest, are all deeply implicated in the life of the château in one way or another. During the 1940’s, their grandfather, Paul Quié was a tremendously successful wine broker in Paris. His prosperous business allowed him to fi rst buy Château Bel–Orme, Tronquoy de Lalande, near Saint Estèphe (Cru Bourgeois) as a gift for his wife, and then both Château Rauzan-Gassies, in Margaux, and Château Croizet–Bages, in Pauillac, the latter two being respectively Second and Fifth Classed Growths as per the 1855 Classification.

In 1968, their father, Jean-Michel Quié, took over the running of the properties and had the difficult and arduous task of resuscitating the vineyards and overhauling the winemaking installations.

Thanks to all his work, energy and devotion over thirty years, the younger generation have been handed the wherewithal for putting Château Rauzan–Gassies back amongst its peers. The wine is not very well known, but the quality is once again up to standard and with the Quié dynamism the rest will follow.

However, the philosophy of the younger Quiés is to advance and to develop, step by step, in a gentle, posed and secure fashion.

 

In the words of Jean-Michel Quié “to put on accoutrements of the Classification of the property”, which enhances the image of the wine.

 

The “crus classés” of Bordeaux represent a tiny proportion of the world of wine. But they are not destined for an elite only. They are for anyone who wants to share something special with those they love”.

 

Therefore his first priority was, and remains, to re-establish the wine of Château Rauzan–Gassies in its rightful place position with the corresponding excellence. The Quié family does do not wish to achieve glory and glamour for themselves; they have a profound realisation of the fact that they are but passing tenants of the standards of their beloved property and that circumstances are now conducive to sharing the blossoming and the new horizons of Château Rauzan–Gassies with their loyal clients.

They are not indulging in a show of grandiose pretension, but rather are embarked on the restoration of its former fame. In 1999, the château and its wine were still wrapped in a winter sleep from which it is awakening with renewed confidence and vigour.

All three the children are intimately connected with the property. Anne Françoise, as oenologist, is involved with all technical aspects, but at present concentrates on the communication and public relations. Jean–Philippe, as the commercial director, but also as joint technical director (he studied at ENITA [Ecole Nationale d’Ingénieurs du Travail Agricole – National School of Agricultural Engineers] in Bordeaux).
The twins are both totally implicated in the day to day running of the estate. The more independent Paul-Henri, the architect, and very much, the artistic, hands-on craftsman of the family, has recently been, and will be for some time to come, completely absorbed in the renovation and facelift that the buildings are undergoing, both here and at Château Croizet-Bages. Working together poses no problem to this united family.

 

They all work in a relatively small enterprise and are versatile in all aspects of the business of growing vines, making wine and managing and promoting a top quality Médoc property in the 21st Century.

 

Anne – Françoise describes their multi–level professionalism as closely related to running a “cottage industry” !

During 1994, in order to give more impetus to the reconstruction and improvement of the vineyard, a Burgundian, Jean–Louis Camp was appointed as technical director.

 

He has also been responsible for the relationship with the Bordeaux “Place”. He personified the fine–tuning of the way of working the vines. Today, he is retired, but remains as a consultant, particularly over the period of transition. Nicolas Pejoux has been appointed as the new technical director.

Since the arrival of Jean–Louis Camp, an interesting experience has been followed whereby, each year, 50 bottles of each grape variety of the property, therefore Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, are bottled and carefully nurtured as a living library. When the time comes for the infinitely important blending of a vintage, this reference is invaluable.

In 1997, the geological history specialist of the Médoc, Jean-Pierre Sales, undertook a complete geological study of all the different parcels making up the vineyards, situated on fossil beds formed by the Garonne River.

 

The information provided has proved essential for working the plots individually and vinifying its fruit according to its particular needs, therefore ultimately, enhancing the complexity of the final blend.The property has been closed to the public for over three years and the tremendous, carefully thought out restoration will be ready to receive its first admirers during Vinexpo 2007.

 

Basically, the old traditional structures have, by and large, been either modernised or renovated, showing the beauty underneath that had been hidden by generations of changes and layers of paint and chalk

 
The beautiful, original stonework of the Second Year Cellar is now once again visible, while the 17the Century First Year Cellar has been completely cleaned up, strengthened and re-covered with attractive, natural and traditional chalk. The roofing has been totally insulated to profit from the natural, cool temperature and its stabilising effect.
The humidity is maintained at the correct level thanks to the three subterranean, sealed-in wells. Attractive arcades have been created around the inner courtyard, which has been naturally laid out with luscious green lawns and shady trees to create a peaceful haven for the visitor. The present tasting room has been charmingly decorated,relying on its traditional aspects and its view of the courtyard.

The entire château has remained a place where the family can feel at ease within their own walls, whilst their clients a delightful venue both to admire their work and taste the fruit of their labours. A magnificent statue of a horse dominates and surveys the entirety. Excellent taste and simplicity personified …

The project is now concentrating on the offices and the reception rooms. Paul–Henri Quié has captured the stunning appeal of the patina of the wood, the historic imprint of the stones, preserving the 150 year old fireplace, and is creating a convivial wine bar, tasting room and dining room as well as business meeting facilities, situated in what used to be the old utility room !

Honouring the fine craftsmanship of Chauffrey from the beginning of the last century, to create just the right atmosphere of revisited tradition. As bespoke by the ancient, 12 foot high cupboard, which has remained in its place of origin !

What is in the bottle today is not just an image or a copy or a product to bowl over the taste buds of certain consumers and influential people. It is an embodiment of what the family views as corresponding to their personal taste and adding their touch, whilst remaining faithful to classical Margaux quality wine framework.

The expression of the soil and of its fruit, here in the heart of Margaux, at Château Rauzan–Gassies, is true to its origins and portrays the love and care bestowed upon the vines, the land and the wines by the Quié family.

The wine has typicity, is complete, richly dense with elegance and harmonious complexity, rather than power. It is made to be enjoyed, to give pleasure, rather than to win prizes. Nevertheless, Château Rauzan–Gassies remains an individual wine and the family preserves both the luxury and the privilege to make wine that it loves !

The wine is not only sold as Futures on the Bordeaux “Place”, but also directly to restaurants, wine shops and private individuals. Marie–Renée, the present generation’s mother, actively represents the family wines at various trade fairs and tastings throughout the year. The Quié family is very interested in Contemporary Art and possesses a fine collection.
Art exhibitions and music concerts are planned here in the near future. The most recent one took place in September.The Quié family is deeply proud of working together in harmony and is secure in the fact that the younger generation is pulling together, as their property continues to revive and their wine to improve.

Jean-Michel Quié derives and expresses enormous pleasure and joy from the accomplishment of his efforts when witnessing his children, especially here in Margaux. Tradition is preserved and improved by the grain of salt brought by each generation, whilst building the edifice for the next generation of the Quié family. Château Rauzan–Gassies is ready to take up, once again, its place amongst the top Second Growth of Margaux !

 

TASTING NOTES
2001 Château Rauzan – Gassies
COLOR : Bright, deep ruby red with heart of purple and garnet touch to the rim.
NOSE : Lovely attack of Morello cherries, hint of smokiness.
PALATE : Rich, delicious fruit flavours, resembling the bouquet,long and lingering on the tongue. Texture, still slightly granular, but silky enough to procure excellent mouth feel. Tannins smoothing into deep and integrated fruit. Delicate touch of sweet spice. Excellent length, suppleness and freshness.A delightfully harmonious glass of wine.

2003 Château Rauzan – Gassies
COLOR : Deep, quite dense ruby purple.
NOSE : Lovely, fresh, yet deep fruit ! Spicy notes.
PALATE : Succulent fruit on attack. Density of flavours in the mouth. Vivacity of expression, refreshing fragrances. Quite tonic. Velvety texture, tannins still slightly granular, but fresh and fruity. Rich and concentrated wine with fine acidity to maintain balance. Little evidence of hydric stress or maturity blockage. An attractive, very enjoyable, reasonablypowerful glass of wine. Made with restraint and control. New wood used parsimoniously !

Subscribe with TASTED Magazine

TOP OF THE PAGE