Few wine regions are as evocative as Piedmont. The legacy of its wines, the magnificent gastronomy or just the sheer beauty of the landscape is reason enough to go there. As alluring as its highly praised and magically scented truffl es, its wines easily seduce wine lovers and amateurs alike.

From the elusive perfume of the noble Barolo and Barbaresco, the charm of succulent Barbera and juicy Dolcetto to the infi nite range of local specialties like Pelaverga, Arneis or Favorita – Piedmont is defi nitely a region that won’t leave you untouched.

I spent a couple of days in Piedmont during a wonderful period in May, tasting through a big range of different wine styles from the most recent vintages. All the tastings were conducted at the consorzio in Alba under semi-blind conditions, divided among vintages and appellations. There were plenty of great wines, and I’d like to share some of my favorites with you.

 

ROERO, LANGHE ARNEIS & LANGHE BIANCO 2005
I think that most Piemontese would agree that the real identity of the region is red wine, and doubtlessly the region’s fame rests on the highly reputed ones. Nonetheless, there are plenty of interesting white wines that span from light, crispy and fresh to rich, voluptuous and oaky styles.
To me, it’s always more of an allure with indigenous varieties such as Arneis or Favorita that deliver more of a true Piemontese terroir. Still, there are some very good Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and other interesting blends.

 

2005 LANGHE ARNEIS, BLANGÈ - Ceretto
Fairly elegant nose with aromas of melon and citrus, with a crisp, dry and spicy palate, nice fruit and a very good length.

2005 ROERO ARNEIS, “TRINITÀ” - Malvira´
A nice golden color, the nose has a characteristic spiciness with yellow fruit and a touch of yeast. The palate is spicy, peppery with balanced acidity, nice fruit, and a good length.

2005 ROERO ARNEIS - Pace
Has a very elegant nose with clean yellow fruit, citrus and spiciness to unite with a palate fresh and full with a long, spicy finish.

2005 ROERO ARNEIS, “TUNIN” - La Contea
The nose offers plenty of peaches, apricots and citrus, while the palate is dry with a spicy character, nice and fresh with a medium-to-long aftertaste.

2005 PERDAUDIN ROERO ARNEIS - Angelo Negro e Figli
Slightly rubbery nose with nice yellow fruit. The palate is dry, fruity, very spicy, and full-bodied with a very nice length.V

2004 & 2005 DOLCETTO
I tasted through the appellations of Dolcetto Diano d´Alba, Dolcetto d´Alba and Dolcetto di Dogliani. While the 2004 overall offers good quality with rich fruit and ripe tannins, the 2005 are more uneven in quality and some wines display harsher tannins and green aromas.

 

2005 DOLCETTO D´ALBA - Bosco Agostino
Young purple color with plenty of red cherries, rich fruit on the palate with a good grip and marked tannins, fruity and fresh with a long finish.

2005 DOLCETTO DIANO D´ALBA “LA LEPRE” - Fontanafredda
Intense purple red color, very rich nose with sweet fruit, dark berries and pepper joining a palate offering a fresh acidity, firm tannins, plenty of fruit and a good length.

2005 DOLCETTO DIANO D´ALBA - Stefano Farina
Young and purplish color, very elegant nose, perfumed with cloves, pepper, ginger, orange peel and red fruits, a nicely structured palate with good freshness and a long fruity aftertaste.

2005 DOLCETTO DI DOGLIANI “SURÌ” - Aldo Marenco
A very spicy nose reminiscent of cloves, ginger, Seville oranges and red cherries. The palate has a fresh acidity, red fruit and spices, long and fresh finish.

 

 

 

2004 DOLCETTO D´ALBA “MONTE ARIBALDO”
Marchesi di Gresy
A nice complex nose with an abundance of dark fruit, cherries, almondsand spices to go nicely with a palate offering nice sweet fruit, good acidity, ripe tannins, and a very long finish. Quite good.

2004 DOLCETTO D´ALBA “ROCCABELLA” - Terre da Vino
The nose offers sweet red fruit, spices, cloves and ginger, with a palate nicely structured amid pleasant spiciness, sweet fruit and good acidity, long finish. Enjoyable.

2004 DOLCETTO DIANO D´ALBA “SORÌ” - Bricco Maiolica
Developed ruby red color, complex nose with dark fruit, cherries, chocolate and tobacco. Very big palate with a nice structure, dark cherries, spices, sweet fruit and a good freshness, and nice length. Very goo ore of a mixed bag for the late ripening Nebbiolo but most of the blends and especially the Barbera-based wines offered rich and voluptuous fruit combined with a great structure – wonderful wines for sheer pleasure drinking.

2004 DOLCETTO D´ALBA “Campo Re”, - Punset
Red cherries and almonds on the nose, a good structured palate with marked tannins and nice freshness, and a long, elegant aftertaste.

2004 DOLCETTO D´ALBA, - Tenuta Rocca
Elegant and flowery nose with dark blackberries, and spices, a touch of almonds and bitterness on the palate, good fruit and freshness, lengthy aftertaste.

 

LANGHE ROSSO 2003 & 2004
2004 really proves to be a good vintage in most categories and not least for Langhe Rosso. This category is quite vast and can comprise many dynamic blends that often include Barbera and Nebbiolo, sometimes with a dash of Cabernet or Merlot.
In general, most wines in this group shone and offered nice structures and plenty of modern fruit without losing the characteristic freshness. 2003 was more of a mixed bag for the late ripening Nebbiolo but most of the blends and especially the Barbera-based wines offered rich and voluptuous fruit combined with a great structure – wonderful wines for sheer pleasure drinking.

 

2004 ALNA ROSSO - Josetta Saffirio
Complex nose, very spicy with roasted coffee, oak and dark berries, a palate rich and structured, with a fresh acidity, ripe tannins, and a seductively long, multifaceted finish. Very good.

2004 “ALBESIUM” - Gemma
Lots of dark berries, oak, coffee and spices, modern fruit on the palate, spicy with marked tannins, fresh acidity and satisfying length.

2004 “IL SOGNATORE” - Aldo Marenco
Dried fruit, red cherries and chocolate on the nose, soft palate with sweet berry fruit and smooth tannins, polished with a nice structure and savory finish.

 

2003 ORNATI - Tenuta Rocca
A very pleasant and complex nose with sweet wild berries, truffles and freshly ground spices, very nice and silky mouth feel with ripe and chewy tannins, fresh acidity and a long and complex finish. Great stuff!

2003 “JANIN” - San Biagio
Ripe blackcurrants, plum, spices and leather dominates the nose. The palate is very polished with velvety tannins, nice fruit, integrated acidity and a long elegant finish. Good

2003 “MERMET” - Gemma
The nose is almost port-like with sweet dark cherries and dark chocolate, sweet and full palate with ripe tannins and a generous mouth feel, warm and generous with a long aftertaste.

2003 “CADÒ” - Anna Maria Abbona
Generous nose with loads of blackcurrants, dark cherries, and dry spices. The palate is full with marked tannins, fresh acidity, plenty of fruit and a medium-to-long aftertaste.

2003 “RABAJOLO” - Bruno Rocca
Developed color, the nose offers mocha, coffee, oak, and red fruit, while the palate is quite tannic but with nice fruit and structure, fresh with a medium-to- long aftertaste.

 

 

BARBERA D'ALBA 2003 & 2004.
It was a pleasure tasting through the whole range of Barbera d´Alba – most of the wines were good or very good with generous cherry fruit, nice freshness and plenty of charm. Barbera is without a doubt a great variety that gives enjoyable, drinkable wines from the upfront fruity and light style to the high-end, barrel-aged and more complex examples.
While 2003 showed more opulence and sweet fruit, the examples from 2004 were more “classical” with a good combination of ripe fruit and fresh acidity. The wines from 2005 were quite newly released when I did this tasting and the few examples I sampled were fairly disappointing. It might still be too early to judge these wines but like the other examples from 2005, the quality is again uneven, far from the even quality of 2004.

2004 BARBERA D´ALBA “TERRE DI SAN QUIRINO”
Stefano Farina
Generous nose that displays dark berries, chocolate, tobacco and oak. The taste is complex, full and rich with a refreshing acidity and a nice tannic backbone, very long finish with appealing spiciness and plenty of fruit.

2004 BARBERA D´ALBA “TERLÈ” - Ronchi
Very flowery and sweet nose, red berries and roses, the palate is dry with red fruits, fresh acidity and balanced tannins. Quite complex with a light, feminine, elegant style topped off with a long aftertaste.

2004 BARBERA D´ALBA “ZIO NANDO” - Rivetto
Dark berries, flowers, spices and chocolate dominates the nose, nice and supple palate with sweet fruit, good freshness and balance, quite long and pleasing finish with nice, dark cherry fruit.

2004 BARBERA D´ALBA - Bosco Agostino
Young and dense color, the nose offers dark cherries, fresh almonds, cloves, some oak and vanilla to go with a palate dry and powerful with juicy fruit and ripe tannins, fresh with a medium-to-long aftertaste.

2004 BARBERA D´ALBA “BALIN” AFFINATO IN BARRIQUE Aldo Marenco
Modern nose with dark berries, oak and roasted coffee, plenty of sweet fruit on the palate, fresh acidity and marked tannins, nice rich fruit and a long finish, modern and quite extracted but good.

 

2003 BARBERA D´ALBA “CONCA TRE PILE”
Aldo Conterno
Very rich nose with ample sweet fruit, flowers, spices and chocolate, very structured palate, rich and powerful with a good freshness and marked tannins, slightly oaky with a long and very fruity finish.

2003 BARBERA D´ALBA “LA MATTA” - Gianni Gagliardo
Deep purple color, the nose is rich and seductive with hints of sweet dark fruit, oak, spices and chocolate. The palate is broad with plenty of dark fruit, a gentle touch of oak and a pleasant lingering aftertaste.

2003 BARBERA D´ALBA SUPERIORE “SAN SEBASTIANO” Conti Roero di Monticello
The nose is evolved and generous with complex hints of stone fruit, ginger, orange peel and spices to combine with a nicely structured palate with firm tannins, balanced acidity and a good length.

2003 BARBERA D´ALBA “BRIC LOIRA” - Cascina Chicco
A very generous nose that presents black fruit, violets, cherries and oak; while the full-bodied palate has well-integrated tannins, plenty of fruit, a good freshness and a long sweet finish.

2003 BARBERA D´ALBA “VIGNA ROCA NEIRA”
Tenuta Rocca
A slight oakiness dominates the nose at first: after a while, red cherries, almonds and chocolate emerge. The palate is very polished with marked tannins and a fresh acidity, slightly extracted but with nice fruit and a long aftertaste.

2003 BARBERA D´ALBA SUPERIORE “LA SCONSOLATA” Cantina del Glicine
The nose is dominated by sweet red cherries, oak and spices with a taste full with a fresh acidity and ripe tannins, nice red fruit and a fairly long aftertaste.

 

LANGHE NEBBIOLO & NEBBIOLO D´ALBA 2003/04
When one gets the opportunity to taste through a range of wines from Piedmont, it’s always an interesting move when you go from the upfront charm of the Barbera to the noble complexity of Nebbiolo.

Nebbiolo is so expressive, fragrant and delicate, with a complex personality that only a few wines can match. Nebbiolo is definitely fickle, capricious and all but forgiving--a true prima donna in its prime.

 

Nebbiolo was happy in 2004 and less so in 2003, 2004 has more classical structures and will age gracefully while 2003 was more atypical, with harsher tannins and warmer fruit, although there are still some darn good wines around.

Anyone eager to taste the Barolo from these vintages will find a good pre-taste in the Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d´Alba wines. Certain ones from these appellations might well qualify for Barolo or Barbaresco but often it’s a selection of younger vines, a second medley from Barolo or Barbareso vineyards or simply wines released early.

The general quality was very good indeed and despite Nebbiolo’s great ability to age, many of these wines offered great pleasure already.


MY TOP PICKS – 2004

2004 NEBBIOLO D´ALBA “VALMAGGIORE”
Luciano Sandrone
Very elegant nose with refined aromas of red berries, cherries, red currants, cloves, minerals, orange peel and tobacco. The palate is dry with elegant fruit, a fresh acidity, marked by ripe tannins and a very good length.

2004 LANGHE NEBBIOLO “MARTINENGA”
Marchesi di Gresy
Quite pale tawny color, elegant and perfumed nose of red fruits, liquorice and spices, with a delicate palate presenting firm tannins, good freshness and a polished, long aftertaste.

2004 NEBBIOLO D´ALBA “LIRANO” - Rivetto
Delicate nose with sweet red berries, flowers and dry spices, the palate is nice with a good grip and freshness, delicate red fruit and a lengthy aftertaste.

2004 LANGHE NEBBIOLO - Bosco Agostino
The nose is generous, fruity and slightly oaky with hints of redcurrants, red cherries and some oak, the palate is full and fresh with marked tannins and nice fruit, good persistence.


MY TOP PICKS – 2003

2003 LANGHE NEBBIOLO - Josetta Saffirio
An elegant, perfumed, complex nose with dark fruit, plums, cherries, orange peel and spices, dry with a fresh acidity, marked tannins and an extended aftertaste. Great job. Very satisfying.

2003 LANGHE NEBBIOLO “IL FAVOT” - Aldo Conterno
Very complex nose, flowery, fruity with cherries, chocolate and spices, very nice on the palate with marked tannins and balanced acidity, quite sweet fruit and a long, warm aftertaste. Quite atypical but very good!

2003 NEBBIOLO D´ALBA, “MOMPISSANO”
Cascina Chicco
The nose is close to jammy but still fairly elegant with lots of sweet fruit and spices. On the palate are hints of violets, liquorice and red berries, nicely integrated tannins, good freshness and length.

2003 LANGHE NEBBIOLO “BATIE” - Gianni Gagliardo
Complex nose that presents dry spices, wild red berries, orange peel and tobacco. The palate is fairly “warm” with marked tannins, opulent fruit and a long, delicate aftertaste.


ROERO
Roero, situated to the north of the river Tanaro, is undoubtedly a great source for some elegant Nebbiolo, even if the name isn’t as evocative as Barolo or Barbaresco. While 2003 was fairly disappointing in general, a few older vintages displayed elegant fruit and complexity.

2001 ROERO SUPERIORE “VALMAGGIORE”
Cascina Chicco
Rich and expressive nose with a pleasing flow of fruit, currants, cherries, violets and spices. A certain complexity emerges on the palate, nicely integrated tannins and a fresh acidity, delicate and long finish.

1999 ROERO SUPERIORE “MOMBELTRANO” - Malvira´
Nice, expressive and slightly evolved nose with multifaceted tones of dried cherries, chocolate, truffles and liqueur, silky palate with soft fruit, good grip and a fresh acidity, well refined tannins and a long and complex aftertaste. Splendid!

BARBARESCO
I tasted through a range of Barbaresco from the vastly different vintagesof 2000, 2001, 2002 and 2003. It’s easy to conclude that good producers will rarely deceive you while lesser ones didn’t even manageto make good wine in a unanimously highly esteemed vintage such as 2001. 2002 and 2003 were the complete opposites, where 2002 offered excessive rain, hail and cool conditions resulting in quite diluted and feeble wines whereas the best examples manage to be delicate and fragrant.
Drought, abnormally high temperatures and a very early harvest marked the desert-like conditions of 2003. Some of these wines have cooked fruit flavors and very harsh tannins whilst the prime examples display nice concentration, ripe fruit and slightly lower acidities but should be enjoyable in their early years.
2001 was the definition of a perfectly normal and very good vintage according to many producers. 2000 was, in general, a very good vintage that is opening up nicely today.

2003 BARBARESCO “NUBIOLA” - pellisero
The nose offers a complex perfume of wild berries, rosehips, cherries, and chocolate pralines. The palate is nicely structured with marked but ripe tannins, opulent fruit and a good freshness, and finishing long and complex.

2003 BARBARESCO “RABAJÀ” - bruno rocca
Very flowery and perfumed nose with hints of raspberries, cherries, orange peel and tobacco. The mouth feel is “warm” with rich fruit. good tannic structure, and nice, long aftertaste.

2003 BARBARESCO “CAPOROSSA” - bruno rocca
Darker fruit than most, flowery and spicy with big, chewy tannins and plenty of fruit--less refined but still rich with a long aftertaste.

2003 BARBARESCO “COSTE RUBÍN” - fontanafredda
Surprisingly dark color with a rich nose of dark fruit, plums, raspberries, chocolate and spices, elegant palate amid a good freshness. fairly marked tannins, lots of ripe fruit and a very good length.

2003 BARBARESCO “BERNADOT” - bricco asili, ceretto
Modern nose with a touch of oak, almonds wild berries and spices. Has a very big and chewy palate with plenty of tannin. It’s on the verge of being too extracted but the fruit is nice, and the great length still makes it a good example.

 Marchesi di Gresy
Very pale color, a surprisingly delicate nose with red berries, almonds and dry spices, combine with a soft and gentle palate with a fresh acidity, light, elegant and fragile with a medium-to-long aftertaste.

2001 BARBARESCO “MARTINENGA” - Marchesi di Gresy
Developed and sophisticated nose with hints of dried cherries, figs, spices, minerals and truffles, wonderful mouth feel and velvety tannins, nice fruit, complexity and an extended rewarding aftertaste.

2001 BARBARESCO “BRICCO RISERVA” - Dante Rivetti
Complex nose with sweet fruit, dried cherries, raspberries, liqueur, spices and truffles, classically dry and fresh palate with polished tannins, liquorice, spices and cedar wood, long aftertaste.

2001 BARBARESCO “PIAN CAVALLO” - Giuseppe Negro
Complex and refined nose with plenty of sweet fruit, cherries, plums, figs, orange peel, cloves and leather, quite austere palate with finely grained tannins, good fruit, fresh acidity, and medium- to-long aftertaste.

2001 BARBARESCO - Cantina Tomaso Gianolio
Complex nose, sweet fruit, dried cherries, raspberries, liqueur and spices, dry palate, fresh with marked tannins, liquorice, spices and cedar wood, medium to long finish,


MY TOP PICKS - 2000

2000 BARBARESCO “RIPA SORITA” - La Contea
Developed color and nose, nuanced aromas of tobacco, dried berries, leather and spices, with a nicely developed palate, smooth tannins, delicate fruit and a long aftertaste.

2000 BARBARESCO “RISERVA RIO SORDO”
Produttori del Barbaresco
Developed and generous nose that offers dark chocolate, cherries and liqueur. The palate is quite austere but with ripe tannins, and fairly sweet fruit character, fresh acidity and long aftertaste.

BAROLO
Barolo is probably the epitome when we talk about the complexity of Nebbiolo. Few wines can match its redolence, structure, freshness and ability to age with grace. The best Barolos most definitely belong to the elite of regal reds anywhere in the world.

The recent vintages we’ve seen, like 1999, 2000 and 2001, have all been very good or great until we witnessed the quite feeble vintageof 2002. Again we have to look for the right producers and do some serious cherry picking.

 

2001 is rather the opposite, where we can find a multitude of great releases. There’s still some nice 1999 and 2000 around, so while we wait eagerly for the splendid 2004 or the richer more atypical 2003 Barolo, let’s enjoy what we find on the market today.


MY TOP PICKS – 2002

2002 BAROLO “MARGHERIA” - Massolino Very expressive nose – cherries, chocolate, liqueur, and dry spices, very nicely structured palate with elegant and ripe tannins, lovely freshness, delicate fruit, and a long finish.

2002 BAROLO - Josetta Saffirio
Quite deep ruby red color, complex and multifaceted nose of dark cherries, minerals, chocolate, cloves and leather, to compliment a classically dry palate fresh with a tannic backbone. The fruit can seduce you with its silky and suppleness, and the long lingering aftertaste is icing on the cake.

2002 BAROLO - Elvio Cogno
Developed color and nose, complex aromas of dried berries, flowers, spices, cloves and chocolate, quite generous palate with sweet fruit, ripe tannins and a good freshness, delicate and flowery with a long aftertaste.

2002 BAROLO “PARAFADA” - Massolino
Nice nose of dark cherries, almonds, minerals and dark chocolate, structured palate with firm tannins, dark fruit and a refreshing acidity, nice and long finish.
nose, flowery, fragrant and delicate with layers of minerals, wild berries, truffles and spices, Add a silky sexy, velvety palate with very bright acidity, delicate fruit and an immense length. . .Wow! An astonishing wine packed with both elegance and power!

2001 BAROLO “PRAPÓ” BRICCHO ROCCHE - Ceretto
Very rich and expressive nose, wild berries, dark stone fruit, plums, smoke, tobacco, truffle and dark chocolate, very structured palate with supple fruit and a wonderful tannic backbone, great freshness and a long complex finish. Very well made!

2001 BAROLO “PREVE” - Gianni Gagliardo
An intricate, complex nose offering sweet cherries, tobacco, minerals and spices, complimenting an exquisitely structured, balanced palate with a nimble poise of sweet berries, minerality and freshness, great tannic backbone and a complex, very long after-taste. Great stuff!

2001 BAROLO “BUSSIA” - Aldo Conterno
Very rich and fragrant nose with an abundance of dark cherries, spices, orange peel, dark chocolate and minerals. The palate is very structured and close to introverted, although with a great potential, still young but very elegant with an inundation of ripe tannins, lovely fragrance and a very long persistence.

2001 BAROLO “LAZZARITO” - Fontanafredda
Complex nose of minerals, sweet red berries, cherries, raspberries and dark chocolate, very structured palate with lots of fruit, tannin and acidity, lovely aftertaste, still closed but definitely a wine to keep for years. Immense potential!

2001 BAROLO “BUSSIA” - Cascina Ballarin
Flowery and perfumed nose that offers dark stone fruit, tobacco and minerals with a palate fairly sweet, good freshness and nice tannic backbone, long and delicate finish. A very charming and open example.

2001 BAROLO “TRE CIABÒT” - Cascina Ballarin
Much more developed with a balsamic nose, quite traditional but good with red fruit, minerals, spices, ginger and cloves. The palate is fairly “sweet” with charming fruit, nice tannic backbone, fresh acidity and good length.

2000 BAROLO “VIGNA RIONDA” - Massolino
Very satisfying and delicate nose offering dark fruit, spices and minerals, flowery and elegant with a potently structured palate, massive but ripe tannins, seductive fruit and bright acidity and finishing grandly, very long and complex. . . a highly expressive wine with infinite potential. Sheer pleasure!

2000 BAROLO “CASTELETTO” - Mauro Veglio
Luscious nose of sweet cherries, wild raspberries, cloves and orange peel, concentrated palate with firm tannins and generous fruit, velvety and supple with a formidable extended aftertaste. Very good.

2000BAROLO “VIGNETO ROCCHE” - Mauro Veglio
Nice and rather developed nose that displays sweet red fruit, rosehips, raspberries, red cherries and leather, with a palate that’s very fresh and classically structured, delicate red fruit and a fresh acidity, elegant and supple aftertaste, good length, highly enjoyable.

1999 BAROLO “VIGNETO ARBORINA” - Mauro Veglio
Lovely sweet nose with a plethora of dark fruit, spices, cloves, orange peel and chocolate, highly complex palate, with liquorice, dark fruit, minerals and a fresh acidity, very structured and concentrated with rigid tannins, immense length. . . a very big wine while maintaining considerable finesse.

1999 BAROLO “TRIUMVIRATUM”, RISERVA
Michele Chiarlo
An especially spicy nose with dark stone fruit, minerals and tobacco, immensely structured palate dominated by dark wild berries, a lovely freshness, great tannic structure, complex and rich with a long, lingering aftertaste. Very good.

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