A Vatican architect - His wine cellars
By Petronella Salvi
The only American ever to design a structure at this sacred place has a soul close to wine.In Hollywood, the term “logline” means condensing the plotline of an entire screenplay into one sentence. The logline for Louis “Lou” Astorino might read: “As the architect, I had a deeply moving spiritual experience while creating the Chapel of the Holy Spirit where Pope John Paul prayed.”
The above storyline was made into a highly acclaimed PBS film. This moving documentary traced the building of Astorino’s chapel and of Pope John Paul attending a recital there conducted by maestro Gilbert Levine. It is a film not to be missed. Although Lou will forever be remembered for his Vatican connection, there is much more to this man than the master hands that create stunning edifices. Lou also designs hospitals, sports facilities and schools around the world, while still finding time for myriads of fundraisers helping those in need.
Astorino’s artistic touch resonates throughout his life. With his soul enamored by fine wine, it comes as no surprise that his cellars are master works as well.
Over the years, I’ve met Astorino in New York City and on his home turf in Pittsburgh at gala events that often bring in some of the biggest names on the international wine scene. However, for this interview, we huddled at his weekend country home in Ligonier, Pennsylvania, an hour east of Pittsburgh.
This area is pure bucolic splendor, horse and ski country, and home to the Andrew Mellon estate. Just down the road is that iconic achievement of Frank Lloyd Wright - Falling Water (of which Astorino was one of the restoration architects).
After meandering up a long winding road to his isolated hilltop house, Lou greeted me with a big smile, a bear hug and a gift bottle of 1997 Dal Forno Romano Amarone.I knew it was going to be a great day! We sat on the patio outside his sumptuous home.
Q: Can you tell us about your business beyond wine ?
LOU: I am chairman of a firm I founded in 1972. We’re an architecture/engineering, interior design/building operation in Pittsburgh. We have over 200 employees with branch offices in Palm Beach and Naples, Florida. Our firm is structured into studios and each one specializes in a certain kind of architecture such as healthcare, sports, commercial buildings, religious buildings, etc.
Q: Describe your homes.
LOU: Our primary residence is a townhouse in Pittsburgh’s Squirrel Hill area. We moved back into the city, downsizing from a contemporary suburban home 18 months ago. It allows us a lifestyle that we had missed in the suburbs by being able to walk to shops and restaurants.
We lived in our previous home for 28 years, which I had designed. When it came time to plan and furnish the townhouse, I let my wife Jean run with the project. Her style is much more traditional/transitional.
I felt she deserved to express her tastes after living all these years with me. You see, it’s not easy to be married to an architect. We have opinions about everything within the home! Fortunately, I managed to sneak a wine cellar into the townhouse. It’s large enough for 550-600 bottles.
Our second home, where we are sitting now, is Lavender Fields. Nestled into the rolling hills of the Laurel Mountains, its style is more French country and I call it a “fairytale” home.
It allows me to do something completely divorced from what I have lived with most of my life. It is a pleasure to design something so special. Lavender Fields is very relaxing, and it gives us a chance to get away from thehectic city and business life to relax with family and friends.
The cellar here is much larger. We can store over 2,000 bottles with additional basement space for stacking many more cases. Lavender Fields has six guest suites, a great kitchen/breakfast area and grand room that all interconnect. The kitchen has a built-in wood-burning oven that we love to cook in, especially pizzas with homemade dough and fresh ingredients. This type of food, and others, is always complimented with fine wine.


Q: When did you discover the pleasure of wine
LOU: During my sophomore year in college, I lived abroad in Florence, Italy and that became the foundation for my passion. Also aiding in my learning was my wife’s father. European-born, he loved any and all wines that were good, and taught me the same. To this day I stand by his motto: “I don’t care what country it’s from. If it’s good, open it!”
Q: How much planning is needed to craft the stupendous cellars you have today ?
LOU: I don’t know that they would be labeled stupendous. They do have a large variety of wines because I amass them for the pleasure of drinking and sharing, and not for financial returns.
I think of wine somewhat as I do art. I may have a particular favorite from the Renaissance but that doesn’t preclude me from enjoying Cubism, Impressionism or Realism.
Q: What are you favorite wines
LOU: There are many. Among the whites, I prefer those from California and France better than the Italians, which are lighter and not as full-bodied. However, there are exceptions such as Planeta from Sicily.
As for American Whites: Flowers and also Paul Hobbs are excellent Chardonnays. There is a white from Bordeaux called Smith Haut Lafite. Other favorites are California Chardonnays from Bryon, Chalone, Far Niente, andCalera from Mt. Harlan. I also enjoy a white from Caymus called Conundrum, which is an everyday wine that I feel isunderrated.
My real joys are the big reds, which lean to Bordeaux, California and Italy. I begin most meals with a little white before switching over. I also enjoy Pinot Noirs. Speaking of them, I met with Angelo Gaja and asked what he drinks when in the States. He answered a Pinot Noir from Domain Drouhin in Oregon. I also find it to be a very pure and expressive Pinot. If it’s good enough for Angelo Gaja, it’s good enough for me!
I’ve traveled to Bordeaux, and of course, like most other wine lovers, have a wonderful attraction to Haut Brion, Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, and Mouton Rothschild.
I enjoy them all and have sufficient amounts of each. My real passion for reds, I have to confess, comes from Italy. I love Brunellos, Barbarescos, Barolos, and Chiantis from great distributors such as Gaja, Bruno Giacosa, Biondi-Santi and Antinori.
Good portions of my Brunellos are from Argiano and Castello Banfi. The Barbarescos are mainly from Gaja, Ciocas, Marchese de Barolo and Prunotto. I also deeply enjoy the Super Tuscans of Tignanello, Ornellaia and Sassicaia. Alongside these, you will find some wonderful American Cabernets - Silver Oak, Joseph Phelps, Ch. Montelena, Peter Michael and Phillip Togni among them.
However, my absolute favorite type of wine is Amarone, which comes from the Valpolicella region of Italy near Verona. Wineries like Raimondi, La Sallette, Quintarelli and the “King of Kings” - Dal Forno Romano - are stunning. Where you find Amarones you will find my heart, for it is one of the most unique and wonderful tasting wines in the world. Both of my cellars are full of them. Whenever we are having a hearty meal, it is always accompanied by a bottle of Amarone.
I enjoy dessert wines as well. Raimondi makes a wonderful Passito Bianco which Jean and I had the pleasure of enjoying with Lucia Raimondi at her Villa Monteleone just outside of Verona. She served the wine with cheese and her mother’s homemade caramelized figs. Colutta Piccolit is another.
Although not quite up to Château d’Yquem (but much more affordable), it is an interesting and very enjoyable dessert wine.Wine can also be intriguing. For instance, there is an obscure one from the high mountains of the island of Sardinia called Mandrolisai.
Scientists have proven that it has attributed, in large part, to these mountain peoples’ longevity - nearly three times as many 100-year-old inhabitants than found elsewhere in the world. I love to give Mandrolisai as a gift, for it is not only a conversational piece but also a good everyday wine.
Q: Any tips for the neophyte collector ?
LOU: You cannot go wrong by paying attention to ratings by experts such as Robert Parker, and magazines such as Wine Spectator, Gambero Rosso and the newest high quality magazine, TASTED.I don’t necessarily feel that the best wines are the most expensive. In my opinion, the top quality-to-price ratio ones are in the “best buy” group. In Pennsylvania, we don’t have independent stores; it’s all run by the state, but we are fortunate enough to have a very savvy state store system.
For instance, if you get on the PA Wine and Spirits website there is a page of Chairman Selections. The Chairman of the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board is Jonathan Newman.
He has a wonderful portion of the website that displays really great buys - an interesting approach for a novice to choose from. Most important to remember is, don’t be afraid to try things. It is your palate that you are trying to please - not someone else’s. Experiment and enjoy!
Q: Can you describe your personality ?
LOU: I feel most people would say that I’m outgoing and friendly. I love being with people, stay very positive, upbeat, enjoy life and remain spiritual.Being an architect, one has to be an artist.
I love to paint and draw in my spare time. The nice thing about painting is that it gives me a quick fix. A building takes a long time to develop and to satisfy the creative desire - it could take several years, but I can do a painting rather quickly.
I feel a wasted moment when you are not learning is a tragedy. I’ve always felt that I have to fill every minute doing something worthwhile. Hardly ever do I just sit and veg out.
Q: Do you have a long-range cellar goal ?
LOU: Yes, to run out of my wine cache and life at the same time! If not - pass it down to my children so that they can drink it with their friends. For me, it’s all about family and friends.
Q: Do you have cellar parties showcasing your wines ?
LOU: Not necessarily, although I enjoy allowing guests to select wines that we are planning to drink. I have it all computerized using a Cellar program, which is bar-coded and tagged. My children tease me all the time that I know exactly what wine was taken and when!
Q: Can a wine junkie become addicted to collecting ?
LOU: I think so - it’s pretty hard to pass up. Winebecomes a big part of your life. You receive magazines, newsletters, emails, etc. that spurs one to search out the best.
It’s tremendouslyalluring, but addicting may be too strong a word. At least in my case.
Q: How much time is dedicated to acquiring the fermented grape ?
LOU: It’s not really a mission of mine. I do it as a hobby yet, at the same time, I’m always on the lookout for that elusive bottle. I love visiting wineries in America and around the world. One of my favorite restaurant types is the BYOBs, or the ones that charge corkage. satisfying to drink my personal wines than those on most wine lists.
Q: Does collecting ever end for you ?
LOU: I don’t think so. My cellar is substantial and my age is starting to get up there - I just turned 60, and am beginning to think about how long I may be around. But if I keep drinking Mandrolisai, I might make it to 100! I’m still working on it!
Q: Do you drink everyday wines ?
LOU: Certainly - I’ve mentioned several already, such as Conundrum and other California Chardonnays and also Antinori Tenute Marchase Chianti Classico. Most wines that I consume daily are $20.00-30.00 a bottle.
Q: Do you ever shop with value in mind ?
LOU: Always, even when I’m looking for a Dal Forno. I take that back, since it is pretty hard to find. But other than that, am I value conscious Yes, indeed.
Q: Certainly you are aware of wine’s health benefits ?
LOU: Yes. It’s an integral part of my diet, although I drink wine for enjoyment and not so much for the medicinal purposes. Though I’ve mentioned that the Mandrolisai wine appears to have more health-producing polyphenols than others.
I have a slogan in my office that I keep for wisdom, written by Ferruccio Lamborghini. It reads, “My doctor tells me to drink a bottle of wine each day. I drink two, and also stay in the company of beautiful women because they take away stress!”
Q: Do you hold wine club memberships?
LOU: Not necessarily, but I do belong to the Duquesne Club, designated the country’s number one city club in 1997, 2000, 2003 and 2006 by the Club Leaders Forum. It’s a historic place founded by Andrew Carnegie. I am Chairman of the wine committee that is comprised of 10-12 collectors, connoisseurs, enthusiasts and a wonderful staff.
We buy wine to hold in reserve for our members and put them on our menu at a much more favorable price than on restaurant lists. We have occasional wine dinner dances and many tastings throughout the year. Our company designed the cellar, and I must say that it is exquisite. Above all else, the Duquesne Club is a labor of love for me.
Q: Any last thoughts on the importance of Wine in the World ?
LOU: Wines allow each individual region to express their independence and uniqueness. It permits them to become almost an ambassador for their particular state, region, or country. It is a wonderful thing to see locals take pride in the terroir of their particular region.
Q: Can you tell us something of your architectural adventure for the Vatican.
LOU: We were introduced to the Holy See by a generous Pittsburgh patron named John Connelly. This introduction allowed us to work in collaboration with the Italian architects from the Vatican on a residence - hotel - called Domus Sanctae Marthae. It is used to house visiting clergy, but the primary function is for Cardinals sequestered for the election of the new Pope.
After the collaboration on that particular building, we were called by the President of the Vatican, who at the time was Cardinal Castillo Lara, and asked if we would be interested in working on another site to house the new chapel. He also asked if we would design it as the sole architect. We were so honored to say yes!
It was triangular, and on one side bordered by the Domus Sanctae Marthae. The other side was the Leonine Wall, which is 30-foot high and built 600 years ago, separating Rome from the Vatican. What an interesting challenge to design a Chapel on this demanding site.
One of my fondest memories of working at the Vatican was that we had the unending support of people like Cardinal Castillo Lara, who appreciated the creativity of our vision. When we came up with some idea that was questioned, he reviewed the issue then said adamantly, “Do what architect Astorino suggests or wants!”
The craftsmanship involved was unbelievable. Every step along the way, mock-ups were built of everything we wanted for our approval. Craftsmen were pulled out ofretirement because of the complexity of the construction.
The chapel turned out to be an absolute jewel. I can say that with humility because I was no more than a pencil in God’s hand on this project. I think it goes without saying that it was the commission of a lifetime for us and it was the experience of a lifetime as well.
After the project was completed, I asked Cardinal Lara, “You instructed me to design a chapel that reflects today’s thinking. Did I accomplish that ”. He answered: “You designed a chapel that reflects the thinking of yesterday, today and tomorrow!”
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