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October - Wine of the Month : Château Mercier AOC Côtes de Bourg

By Petronella Salvi

In 1688, a notary act recounts the purchase of a plot of land on the Mercier plateau and today the Chety family continues the tradition, started with that purchase on the slopes overlooking the confluence of the Garonne and the Dordogne, of lovingly cultivating their proud heritage. The entire family is totally engaged in the continued excellence of the wine.

            Family spirit, dedicated commitment and each generation’s multi-facetted talents have been the mainstay over all 13 generations. Château Mercier today consists of 23 hectares of red vines and 1 ½ hectares of white, with a small amount of Bordeaux Clairet.

This live and vibrant vineyard is planted with 45% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc and 10% Malbec as well as 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Semillon and 15% Muscadelle. The soil composition is complex, with a majority of very deep red gravel with small, pebbly
stones, 15 – 20% clay, ferrous in places, and silex present in other places.
The vines of the plateau are well drained, and those on the slopes enjoy excellent exposure. The family is also proprietor of Château La Cottière of approximately the same size. A top end of the market, top quality wine, is made from vines along the top of the hills on calcareous soil, and sold under the label Clos de Piat, a small property bought by Christophe Chety in 1999.

TASTING NOTE : 2002 Château Mercier, Cuvée Prestige, AOC Côtes de Bourg
Colour : Relatively light, bright, dense ruby, hint of garnet with deep reflections
Nose : Attractive, bright, fresh, lovely fruit attack – deep, quite dense red fruit - morello and white heart (bigarreau) cherries, well integrated aromas
Palate : Lovely attack, fruit freshness, good structure, firm in the mouth, smooth, integrating tannins, excellent fruit / acidity balance. Very good length of flavours, which reflect aromas on nose. Balanced wine. Excellent texture and volume
Finish : Succulent to the end, refreshing and exceedingly pleasant wine. Developing well.

Could be enjoyed as soon as it becomes available on the US market, but will keep and evolve for at least three to five years Christophe Chety explains the objectives and motivation of Château Mercier, and the present Chety family, as producing the best quality grapes and wine due to a carefully studied combination of tradition, modern techniques and technology, as well as a scientific, yet practical approach.

“Pertinent choices must be made throughout the evolution of a property”, he emphasised, “and both attitudes and objects have to be renewed”. The difference is evident. Analytical and decisional management assimilate both the visual and the technical aspects. Financial decisions have to be considered as well as its consequences upon the entire property and the wines that are put on the market.
However, the schema of techniques and technology is very complex and perpetually subject to change. The weather, the adaptability of the vine, the change in soil, investment in viticultural practices and the training of the entire team, are all factors to be taken into considerations every day without neglecting the overall objective of continued quality, while remaining both competitive and economically viable.

The Bourg appellation is privileged by the acceptance of most of its proprietors that listening to sound advice can be to the benefit of all parties. In difficult and particular vintages this is even more important.
At Château Mercier, viticulture is a question of adapting ancient techniques to modern conceptions in, which the empiric observation and experience, form the basis. Green cover crop is planted, the soil is regularly aerated, the surface roots cut, attentive deleafing is carried out to care for the vine and the fruit it bears.

The environment is respected, treatments and methods adapted for its protection. The property adheres to FARRE (Forum de l’Agriculture Raisonnée Respectueuse de l’Environnement). All chemical products have been drastically reduced, both in the vineyards and in the cellars. Nature itself is used to combat invasions of undesirable insects and viruses.
No set of handbook rules are followed in the cellars either, but rather close observation of the grapes, preserve its fruit aromas and flavours and following  the dictates of the specific wine each vintage produces, in order to allow the true nature of the grape to express itself. Nevertheless, all the usual analyses continue to take place and the results are used in decision - making in each step of the vinification.

20% of the fermentation vats are stainless steel; the rest renovated and newly treated concrete vats. This vision therefore applies also to the period of maceration, the number of rackings, the stabilisation of the wine and all through the process of maturation the wine.
The aim is to produce fruity, round wine, easy to drink wine and at a reasonable price. However, when the vintage lends itself to a more powerful wine, apt to mature, then this is taken seriously into consideration.

A balance is sought between the fruit and the anthocyans. Therefore, extraction is carefully monitored to avoid heavy, tiring wine. Each plot of vines is handled separately and is allowed to express its specific characteristics which are persistently perceptible, but have to be subjected to its aptitude for forming part of an excellent blend. Only 20 - 40% new barrels (according to the vintage) are used per year, with a small percentage (around 10 – 15%) of “Mendocino” American barrels.

This adds a specific touch to the blend, but is carefully monitored not to accentuate the vanilla flavours. Different wines are made for different market, whilst remaining faithful to the traditional structure of Château Mercier.
Château Mercier is advised by the “Chambre d’Agriculture”, which follows the property throughout the year, thus ensuring objective exterior input from a variety of experts.Wine is bottled by Château Mercier, at the property. Professional storage facilities have been created and all bottled wine is stored on metal pallets.

The permanent staff numbers 7 people, with one person fully occupied in the cellar and with the preparation of shipments. Château Mercier has acquired FDA agreement.
Production :
between 120,000 – 140,000 bottles of red wine and 10,000 – 12,000 bottles of white wine per year
Marketing : 40% direct sales, 40% to the Bordeaux Wine Trade and 20% in bulk (a part of which to private customers in “cubitainers”)
- 25% export, with the great majority going to Northern Europe, the United Kingdom, Norway, and some to Japan
- 5% only to the United States of America and the family feel that here there is definitely room for expansion. The Chety family is very involved in the day to day marketing of their wine.

Martine Chety handles the tastings and most of the sales, and has transformed the tasting room into an attractive, yet traditional and functional place. Several vintages are available, including some beautifully matured wine. Christophe Chety feels that the difference, brought about by maintained improvement in quality and the effective and momentous choices made over the last thirty years (since his father, Hervé, took over), is evident and that the direct sales have significantly increased.
“Direct marketing is subject to the immediate reaction and endorsement of a quality wine. Our clients come back year after year, and advertise for us through their positive comments. Their pleasure and constancy is particularly satisfactory in difficult times”, Christophe summarises.

“Properties who followed the evolution in the market, whilst at the same time protecting their vineyards and improving their techniques and knowledge, are better armed to face problematic economic cycles and less vulnerable in crisis. It is essential to be personally involved and also to invest in marketing and promotion, such as making their wine available to regional restaurants”.
“One has to prove that one DOES make good wine, rather than telling others that one’s wine is the best …”. Hervé and Christophe Chety are rightly proud of the varied, yet charming wines they produce, reflecting their soil, the specific conditions of their vintage and the experience and expertise of those responsible for tending and creating them.

An enthusiastic, dedicated, hardworking and practical team ensures that Château Mercier continues to produce eminently enjoyable, excellent quality wines at indisputably reasonable prices.

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