Jas Hennessy & Co
By Rachel Kebel
A name that needs no introduction on any of the five continents. Yet, each of us has a personal conception of what the name stands for, or put differently, what we look for in a glass of Hennessy Cognac !
In July, a team of American Sommeliers had the unique opportunity of an in - depth visit to the Hennessy distillery and the cellars as well as the precious paradis . In order to truly get to grips with the products created by this famous and prestigious Cognac house, the group settled down to a tutored tasting, directed by Cyrille GautierAuriol, Public Relations Manager, and tutored by Yves Tricoire, Director of Eaux de Vie Purchasing and Taster.
Richard Hennessy, an Irishman, founded the company, in 1765, and started the quest to position a brand throughout the world. The name Hennessy personifies the combined expression of the art of working with the fruit of the vine and creating the very finest eaux de vie. This is continued today by conjugating the art, experience, savoir faire and dedication of talented producers, wine makers, distillers, coopers, selectors, tasters, blenders, packaging specialists as well as network of diligent agents and wine merchants. As a result, the consumer has, within his reach a drink that sometimes defies description.
The geographical situation lends itself wonderfully well to the establishment of the aging cellar for maturing the young Cognacs under ideal circumstances. This tasting took place in the Quais Hennessy complex and obviously, did not include the entire range of Hennessy Cognac. It was a superb educational experience and a refresher course for all.
Hennessy works with 20 exclusive distillers, who are called A« boilleurs de profession A», 400 distillers under contract, 1,500 regular suppliers and 500 occasional suppliers. The company is also an extremely important customer for all the many coopers that supply their barrels.
Different Cognacs are made for different markets in order to correspond to the culture and the taste of the clientele. It is important to remember that the tannins in the Eau de Vie serve as catalysts, transforming the alcohol into aromatic esters and giving that distinctive, delicately rancio aroma & flavour. When ageing Cognac, the eau de vie is not only in contact with the wood, but is also subjected to a certain degree of oxidation by the penetration of oxygen through the fibre of the wood. At the same time, Cognac evaporates through the wood and this is known as the part des anges.
The quality of the vintage naturally plays an essential role and the best eau de vie is that of between 30 70 years old. This necessitate tremendous vision from the master blender, but also presupposes top quality, mature grapes, followed by excellent distilling to unfold the depths and secrets of wine transformed into eau de - vie. The primordial requirement is to perfectly balance all these elements.
2004 - Fins Bois Eau de - Vie
Fruity and floral flavours, obviously colourless; the Cognac apt for aging is selected from this eau de vie.
2001 - One year in old casks
15 year old casks
Straw coloured, nutty flavours but no raw wood flavours. Still harsh, it is the blending together with ageing, that will mellows the wine and enhance its inherent flavours
2001 - One year in new casks
Light amber colour. Decided wood flavours taste of French oak.
[Please note that these last two Eaux de Vies are exactly the same, they have only been aged differently]
1983 Cognac in the process of ageing
Developing complexity as result of the gentle and slow oxidation. The eau de vie has evolved.
Amber colour, delicately spicy on the attack, long, flavours of dried figs, toffee. Remarkable freshness and fruitiness thanks to excellent acidity. Finish on notes of dried apricot and marmalade.
1956 - Grande Champagne (at approximately 45A°)
Beautiful, amber colour. Lovely Cognac showing the influence of controlled oxidation. It evolves smoothly on the palate. Warm fruit aromas. Palate echoes smoothness, stylish rancio , rich, spicy and quite concentrated flavours. Elegant and complex with excellent depth. Finish on delicate and attractive bitter chocolate notes.
VSOP Privilege
The youngest of the blends. Eau de vie of between 4 15 years old. Lively, attractive colour, with fiery depths. A touch of spice on the attack, then white fruit aromas. Delicate wood character. Lovely freshness. On the palate, a harmony of aromas and flavours. Slightly liquorice, grilled almonds, tobacco, crystallised fruit flavours. A touch of rancio . Smooth, long and vigorous. Finish with notes of liquorice and above all, a wonderful freshness on the palate.
XO Original
This blend was created in the 19th Century. Since 1947, the same blend has maintained the same presentation. Deep, amber colour, reflections of gold. Nose of black pepper, nutmeg and cardamom. A generous Cognac. Palate round, robust and peppery. Charming vegetal flavours from the wood (nuttiness). Long and stylish. A masculine eau de vie, which accompanies a Montecristo Cigar beautifully.
Private Reserve
Special blend created some 3 4 years ago. Selected from the best plots of privately owned vineyards and from wine of the best years over several decades. Only available to restaurants and sommeliers.
Lighter colour. Very delicate. Fruity, harmonious, long on the nose. Beautifully round and velvety on the tongue. Lingers with a wonderful hint of nuttiness. Finish on fruit and elegance.
Paradis
This is made from very old Cognac. Beautiful colour, velvety depths and brilliant reflections of mahogany. Nose is subtle, hint of dried flowers, very complex, and rich. Palate has excellent balance, delicacy and unctuousness. Delicious, complex flavours long and pure. Very feminine. Finish is smooth and silky, with wonderful fresh fruit flavours at the end.
Le Richard d'Hennessy
Very old Cognac is used; care is taken that it should not be TOO old ! Between 70 80 years old. The challenge is to parsimoniously use some of the fabulous eau de vie from 1832, kept in a demi john, for this blend. Lovely, mellow, delicate colour. Attack of floral and fruity aromas. Nose delicately spicy, with a hint of mushroom, rounded by mellowed oak and Havana cigars. A statement of aromatic complexity. Palate is quite powerful, mellow, fruity, delicately spiced, velvety and harmonious. Finish velvet smooth, yet with an expression of genuine power, hints of dried fruit. Sublime balance giving huge satisfaction and pleasure.
The Hennessy range has been recognised as an immense commercial success. However, the aim is to continue to create Cognac, which acquires expression through a life time of careful maturing. All of this in order to accentuate its perfumed depths and complexities, and to give the consumer lasting and sensuous pleasure.
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