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Champagne Veuve A. Devaux

By Petronella Salvi

The Devaux brothers founded the company in 1846, but it was managed, built up and given its place in the history of Champagne, by Madame Augusta Devaux. The company seat is the beautifully restored Domaine de Villeneuve with its superb mansion and magnificent gardens and woodland.
Since 1986, the company has belonged to its member winegrowers (750 members), whose vineyards are situated in the heart of the Côtes de Bar and cover 3,500 acres, representing 5% of the total surface area of Champagne vineyards. The soil is ideally suited for producing top quality Pinot Noir.

            Jean – Noël Girard is the export manager of the, not yet, internationally very well known brand, Champagne Veuve A. Devaux, which belongs to the “Union Auboise” (created in 1967), and which has cautiously preferred to achieve a certain level of experience, quality, and specialisation before launching into a massive commercialisation campaign. The production is 600,000 bottles per annum, of which 85 – 90% is Pinot Noir and the rest predominantly Chardonnay, with a small amount of Pinot Meurnier.

48% of the total production sold in France and the sales on the export market accounts for the remaining 52%. One of the advantages of vineyards with such a large surface area is the diversity in soil expression that is available.
Members are encouraged to allow their soil to put its imprint firmly on their wine, like the wine from Chouilly, which has a decidedly mineral character. A tremendous effort has been concentrated around the individual viticulture of the different plots of vines.
The quality of the existing rootstock is regularly tested and advice is given when needed to encourage the ultra - rapid control of disease and of any infestation of virus, bacteria or illness.

An entire team is dedicated to analysing soil, to identifying problems or shortcomings and to creating a schedule of actions to be taken to improve and to keep the soil healthy and virus free. It is therefore logical that the target is to achieve a viticulture that gives vital consideration the soil, the environment, the climatic conditions and the various choices in treatments of the vine, according to principles of minimum interference.

There is no longer just a list of actions to be taken and a calendar to be adhered to, but rather a personalised and individualised adaption of scientific knowledge and traditional experience, which form the basis of all decision making in the vineyards.
The ultimate aim is to produce healthy grapes of excellent quality and of the appropriate quantity, which corresponds to all these criteria. Five year contracts are signed between the producer and the company, and most producers are delighted with the improved reputation and security that have resulted from their efforts.

Champagne Devaux is very proud of the impressive level of traceability and transparency that it has succeeded in creating – right from the original vines planted in individual plots. Grapes coming from specific plots are carefully selected. They are vinified separately, in sitio, under the supervision of the Champagne Devaux wine maker, together with the viticultural and oenological teams, in a network of 12 cooperatives (300 – 400 fermentation vats of different sizes).
This huge investment helps to reduce unnecessary transport of the fragile wine and limits oxidation, thus guaranteeing better quality. Each one of these “cuvées” is also matured separately in order to be able to benefit from the enormous diversity of potential variations for the many different blends that the company produces.

The reserve wine is carefully matured in wooden casks and a considerable percentage is added to the wine (between 20 – 50%). The wine is allowed to mature for at least 3 years, and even 5 years in the case of the “D” Range of Champagnes, which enhances its complexity and its finesse. Laurent Gilles, President of the Directorate, wishes to develop the brand for its value, rather than for its volume, capturing the fruit and the freshness of prime quality, mature grapes.

In all probability the production will remain stable at its present level.
An interesting array of barrels is used - traditional French oak and the Burgundian size are the most common. However, for the “D” Range the wine maker, Claude Thibaut, is experimenting with barrels of 500 litres capacity as well as oak from the Caucasian mountains and Eastern European countries.Giro palettes (50) are used for the majority of the production, but at least 20,000 bottles are still riddled by hand on the traditional riddling racks.

For “dégorgement” the neck of the bottles are frozen with a glycol solution for 5 minutes, to facilitate an impeccable extraction of the deposit, by a very sophisticated piece of equipment with a capacity of 3,000 bottles. This equipment has rigorous controls to any avoid glass shards contaminating the wine.

Champagne Devaux has installed a very sophisticated bottling line accommodating all the most modern and complicated processes, from adding the dosage to the bottles to finally bottling the wine,labelling and foiling the bottles, and also packing them in the different types of presentation containers.
The identification is not neglected. It traces each bottle back to a specific vineyard. 9,000 bottles can be treated per hour.The wine is then rested for several months, usually from February to just before the next vintage, before shipment.No shipment takes place during the month of August.

The storage facilities are the height of modern technology with perfect cooling as well as humidity control, and the capacity is enormous. The “prise de mousse” storage can contain between 14 – 16 million bottles. However, Champagne Devaux also offers storage facilities to other Champagne shippers in addition to its members stocks. The expedition facility has a capacity of 400,000 bottles.Champagne Devaux is of the opinion that an excellent work tool is essential and that it should function perfectly and have excellent performance potential.
Champagne Devaux is doing work for other companies in order to ensure better productivity of all their equipment. This is an ongoing development. Great emphasis is placed on the training of personnel to enable them to work comfortably with these modern machines, to improve protection against accidents (protective clothing is obligatory and this is enforced), for their health in general and to enhance job satisfaction.

There is still room for progress. It is obvious that the overall security arrangements for an enterprise such as this are of primordial importance and very strict rules apply to each and every member of the personnel.
The “D” Range was created to be a masterpiece of the time honoured practices of selecting and blending - the ultimate art of the master blender. The difference in the “D” Range is immediately visible. Heavy, classically shaped; slightly slimmer bottles with their metallic labels. A very smart and eye catching presentation.

The D de Devaux “Le Rosé” is a non vintage Champagne with 48% Chardonnay and 52% Pinot Noir. It is an excellent aperitif Champagne with excellent depth of red fruit and good bottle age. D de Devaux “Le Millésime” Brut is a blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir. It is the pure expression of the 1996 vintage and is fresh, elegant, with a slight hint of spice.

A wine of plenitude.D de Devaux “La Cuvée” Brut NV, is 2/3 Pinot Noir and 1/3 Chardonnay. Wine with personality, round and long in the mouth.
The traditional range includes a Cuvée Grande Réserve Brut NV; a Devaux Blanc de Noirs Brut NV (100% Pinot Noir) and a Devaux Rosé Intense NV One cannot finish without mentioning that the company also produces a still Rosé, Rosé de Riceys.

Up until now the U S A market was not a priority, but this will be changing. Champagne Devaux has been in the process of creating an image of what it wants to reflect.Now that the brand is established, especially with the setting up of the “D” Range, its promotion, together with the quality of its products, can begin in earnest.

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