All the world loves ribs, so it always surprises me that the great long-cooked fl avor of ribs is often hidden under a gloppy sauce. The idea of sweetness and a glaze is, of course, well intentional, but why overdo it.
Since I don’t have a backyard smoker, which is what die-hard rib makers use, I poach ribs in stock with aromatics and herbs to soften the meat, then apply the glaze and thyme and fi nish in the oven.


The result is nicely caramelized ribs with complex flavor. If you absolutely must have more caramelization, broil the ribs for a minute or two, but don’t carbonize (i.e., burn) the sugars in the glaze. Cut each rack of ribs crosswise into 2 pieces, and place in a large stockpot. Add enough cold water to just cover, about 4 quarts.
Add the salt and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. As the water heats, skim off any foam that rises and place it in a bowl. Once no more foam comes to the surface, strain the contents of the bowl through a fi ne-mesh strainer back into the pot, then discard the scum remaining in the strainer.


Meanwhile, cut off the green portions of the leek (discard or reserve for another use) and the root end. Split the leek lengthwise and rinse under warm water to remove any dirt; set aside. Place the star anise, chili fl akes, peppercorns, and 4 of the thyme sprigs on a square of cheesecloth and tie into a bundle.


Once there is no more foam in the stockpot, add the spice bundle, leek, onions, carrots, 1 cup of the honey, and the vinegar to the pot. Partially cover the pot and reduce the heat to keep the liquid at just under a simmer; there should only be very light bubbling at the edges of the pot. Cook for 45 minutes, or until the meat is tender but not yet falling from the bones.


Remove the pot from the heat and cool the ribs completely in the liquid.Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet pan with a Silpat or parchment paper.
Remove the meat from the cooking liquid and drain on paper towels. (Discard the liquid.) Scrape away and discard any silverskin remaining on the underside of the ribs. Dry the ribs completely.


Warm the remaining Q cup honey in the microwave or on the stove until liquefi ed. Add cayenne pepper to taste. Brush both sides of the ribs with half the honey and sprinkle with the thyme leaves, salt, and black pepper. Place the ribs meaty side up on the prepared.

To Serve: Serves 4 as a main course or 6 to 8 as an appetizer. Serve with fresh corn or Grits and Kernels with Yellow Tomato Water, or cut the ribs into individual bones and serve as an appetizer.

To Drink: POL ROGER 1998 - Extra Cuvée de Réserve