1.Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.


2.Season the shank with the salt and pepper. Use kitchen twine to tie the shank in 1-inch intervals. Tuck in the rosemary sprigs.


3.Warm 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a Dutch oven or casserole over high heat. Slip the meat into the pan and brown it evenly, turning it carefully as needed until all the surfaces of the meat are a light golden brown. Transfer the shank to a platter and let rest.


4.Warm the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in the same pan over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, celery, carrots, and leek and cook until the vegetables are tender but have no color, approximately 8 to 10 minutes.
Add the tomato paste, peppercorns, and bay leaves and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the flour, then add the wine, stock, tomato, and the shank. Bring the liquid to a boil and cover the pot with a lid. Slide it into the oven to braise until the shank is very tender, about 2 1/2 hours.


5.Transfer the meat to a heated serving platter. Cut off and discard the kitchen twine and rosemary. Boil the pan liquid until it reduces by three-quarters. Strain the sauce over the meat and serve immediately.

To Drink: Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir, California (U.S.), Byron 1998. Light bodied, with cinnamon and red-berry aromas that pair well with the carrots and turnips. The vivacious nature of this wine with high acidity enlivens the slowly braised veal shank.