Here we have a passionate reworking of the New England lobster roll with every component ratcheted up a notch in flavor. The slices of ripe tomato (given a brief oven drying) are seasoned and marinated in olive oil overnight to concentrate their flavor.


Wafer-Thin Potato Crisps deliver intense fl avor and crunch. The ginger mayonnaise is mayo and then some. And the lobster . . . ahh, the lobster! Big meaty chunks of tail are bound together with pureed claw so that instead of little bits that fall all over your T-shirt, you bite into a burger that stays together until you get it to your mouth. When I pick up one of these burgers, I can’t resist telling it, “Darling, you look so good!”


Hint: The lobster is initially undercooked: it is placed in boiling water long enough to loosen the meat from the shell to make removing it easier. Then the lobster is cooked again after the burgers are formed. For the tomatoes, preheat the oven to 225°F.Line a baking sheet with a Silpat or parchment paper.Place the tomato slices on the lined pan. Sprinkle with a light dusting of sugar, salt, and pepper, then drizzle lightly with olive oil.


Top with the thyme leaves and garlic slices. Place in the oven for 30 minutes to 1 hour to dry slightly and concentrate the fl avor. Cool the tomatoes on the pan, then cover and refrigerate for up to a day. Bring to room temperature before using.


Place enough water to cover the lobsters in a large stockpot and bring to a boil. Fill one or two large bowl(to hold the lobsters) with ice water. Place the lobsters in the boiling water for 2 minutes. Remove the lobsters from the pot and place in the ice water until cold. Remove and drain thoroughly.
Working over a bowl,break the lobsters part and reserve any juices.To remove the meat,grasp the tail, twist and pull to detach it from each lobster. Twist off the claws. Discard the bodies or reserve for stock or another use. Twist to separate the knuckles from the claws.


Use kitchen shears to cut through the shell on the smooth side of the knuckles, and pull out the meat.Using scissors, cut down the center of the underside of each tail. Pull the shell back and remove the meat.Cut the tail meat lengthwise in half.Remove and discard the vein that runs along the top of the tail. Cut the tail meat and knuckle meat into Q- to U-inch pieces, and place in a small bowl.Pull down on the small claw pincers to loosen them and then pull them away from the claws.


Crack the wide section of claw shell withthe back of a chef’s knife and pull apart to remove the meat.Cut the claw meat into 2-inch pieces, and place in the bowl of a small food processor. Blend on high speed to a paste.Season with salt and pepper, transfer to the chopped lobster meat, and combine with a rubber spatula. Divide the lobster into 4 equal parts and form each into a burger just about the size of the buns.


Place on a plate and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours to fi rm.Combine the mayonnaise and grated ginger in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.Preheat the oven to 350°F. If you have a second oven, preheat the broiler.In a large ovenproof nonstick skillet, melt the butter with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat. Place the burgers in the pan and cook on the fi rst side for 1 to 2 minutes.


Flip and cook on the second side for another 2 minutes. Flip again and cook for another minute.Transfer to the oven and bake for 4 minutes, or until warm in the center. To check, insert the tip of a small paring knife into the center of a patty, and then touch the knife tip. If it is warm, the burgers are ready. Meanwhile, split the buns in half, place on a baking sheet, and lightly toast under the broiler.


Or, if you do not have two ovens, turn the broiler on once the burgers are removed, and toast the buns.Spread about half of the ginger mayonnaise on the bun halves.Using the remaining mayonnaise as “glue,” make 4 stacks of 4 potato crisps each.


In a small bowl, toss the mâche with the remaining teaspoon of oil.Place the lobster burgers on the bottom halves of the buns. Top each with a slice of roasted tomato, a stack of layered crisps, and about T cup mâche. Top with the remaining buns and a side of peach slaw, if desired.

To Serve: Serve with the Tartar Sauce passed on the side. Serves 4 as a first course.

To Drink: SALON 1996 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil