Many people think that one white-fleshed fish is just as suited to a recipe as any other. Often this is true, but there are two, Dover sole and John Dory, that are special because their firm flesh holds together and doesn’t crumble or break apart when you cook them. Both are European fish, so you may have to look a little harder (and pay a little more) to find them, but it’s worth it. One of the challenges of fi sh cookery is to create a nice fi nish on the outside without drying out the delicate flesh inside.


A solution, used here, is to cut the fish into smaller pieces that can cook quickly and still acquire an all-over finish. In French, this shape is called gougonette, which is the name we have for small baitfi sh.Our side dish is a slaw with a twist. Although slaws are often called for with fish, nowhere is it decreed that all slaws must have cabbage.
Better to say all slaws must crunch. Here cucumber serves admirably along with a creamy dressing that picks up flavors of mint, honey, mustard, and mayonnaise for a cooling yet thoroughly balanced variation on traditional coleslaw.


Hint: Before you start cooking the fish, place the slaw on the serving plates so that as soon as the fish is cooked, you are ready to serve.If you can’t find John Dory, you can substitute sea bass, with slightly different but still good results. For the slaw, whisk the honey, lemon juice, mayonnaise, cream, mustard, lime juice, and mint together in a medium bowl. Season to taste with salt.

To Serve: With a fork, toss in the cucumbers until well combined. Refrigerate for 30 minutes, then drain in a strainer set over a bowl, reserve the dressing.Refrigerate until ready to serve, or up to a few hours.

To Drink: GOSSET 1999 - Grand Millésime